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This topic comprises 3 pages: 1 2 3
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Author
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Topic: Fading 70mm Print.....
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David Miller
Film Handler
Posts: 18
From: Kent, WA, USA
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 02-16-2001 01:01 PM
So now that the print of "Raiders Of The Lost Ark" is on screen here a the Cinerama it is pink, like they said it would be. The problem is two fold. First, Paramount printed a special "Tomb Raider" trailer in 70mm to go on the front of each of the Indiana Jones films. The audience sees this and then everything goes pink once the feature starts. Second, I am very afraid that the people coming to see "Raiders" will think that the other two films are pink and won't come back, when in fact the other two are perfect. I was talking with another projectionist and we were discussing putting a piece of green or blue gel material over the window to see if we could counter act the some of the pink. Has anyone heard of doing this? Is this just a far fetched fix that will cause more problems than it fixes? If indeed this would counter act some of the fading, what is the right type of material to use to minimize light loss on the screen and any other effects? Thanks for any insight. ------------------ David Miller millerdk@plu.edu Projectionist, Seattle Cinerama
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John Pytlak
Film God
Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 02-16-2001 02:51 PM
Again, your print of Raiders was likely on the older print stock, before the widescale use of the much more stable Kodak print films introduced in 1982.The amount and color of the fading depends upon the processing and storage conditions, but in general, old print films tend to have the cyan and yellow dyes fade faster than the magenta dye. So faded prints tend to become magenta or "pink". The dye fading you are seeing usually results in a contrast change for each color --- in other words, the dark areas of the picture (shadows) tend to change more than the light areas (highlights). So putting an overall filter in front of the projector lens may help hide the fading in the shadows, but will tend to color the highlights. You need to use a filter that helps correct the pink shadows, without making the highlights too cyan-green. You could try using a Kodak Color Correction Filters, which are now distributed by Tiffen Filters. Probably a moderate level of "cool" filtration like an 80A or 80B would make the picture look better, or a cyan or green color correction filter. You should definitely make an announcement prior to the show, noting the fading on the oldest print, and reporting that the newer prints on the improved print film look much better. It may be possible to scan representative frames from each print to show the relative color differences, and post those photos in the lobby. Can you show the new Tomb Raiders trailer AFTER the feature? Or can you get trailers of Temple of Doom and Last Crusade to show that they didn't fade? Here are some links to information on Tiffen filters: http://www.tiffen.com/tiffen.press%20release.html http://www.tiffen.com/color_conversion_filter%20pricing.htm http://www.saundersphoto.com/html/news/body_news.htm If you do use a filter in front of the lens, be sure it is perfectly clean and scratch free. The intense heat near the aperture prevents placing the filter behind the lens or aperture. Obviously, the best solution would be to make new 70mm prints, as the negatives were usually much less likely to fade significantly, especially if stored properly. ------------------ John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging Eastman Kodak Company Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419 Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243 E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion
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John Eickhof
Jedi Master Film Handler
Posts: 588
From: Wendell, ID USA
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 02-16-2001 04:48 PM
I agree with John Pytlak, contact a theatrical lighting / stage supply house, and order light and medium cyan filters, (Gels) about 12" square, experiment with these. I have projected many faded prints to audiences using filters in the ports, the result is quite pleasing, and the light loss is minimal. The #80A filter may also be better than straight cyan, (I have not tried one yet though) I have used a very pale blue filter too on some prints. Good luck!!
------------------ John Eickhof President, Chief Slave Northwest Theatre Equipment Co., Inc. P.O.Box 258 Wendell, ID. 83355-0258 208-536-5489 email: jeickhof@nteequip.com
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John Wilson
Film God
Posts: 5438
From: Sydney, Australia.
Registered: Dec 1999
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posted 02-17-2001 12:01 AM
When we ran our double feature of Top Gun and Raiders Of The Lost Ark in 70mm about 1994, we ran Raiders first for that very reason. Raiders being pink and Top Gun being LPP.We didn't get a single complaint about the colour in Raiders...but we would have been bombarded if it had been played second. Maybe you could 'forget' to run the Tomb Raider trailer with Raiders but just run it with the other two. Or get a gel in front of the trailer that will make it turn pink. Good luck with the screenings, David. I am extremely jealous as I have to sit here and screen this Hannibal shit while you are screening the best film ever made. BTW, www.indy20.com. You voted yet? ------------------ "It's not the years, honey...it's the mileage". Indiana Jones
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Stefan Scholz
Expert Film Handler
Posts: 223
From: Schoenberg, Germany
Registered: Sep 1999
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posted 02-17-2001 07:46 AM
On request from some film collectors using correction filters, I used them with some of my 70 mm screenings of classic films.These collectors stated, that the color is nicer to look at, but I could not follow. Yes it did not look as pink, but white was coloured cyan, and light output reduced. The only complain was from an older lady, master in photography. She did not like the "unnatural colorization of whites", and stated, that the human brain has a mechanism to adopt to faded color as long as the white stayswhite for reference. I could follow that. The film collector folks like the filtered version better. We used glass filters one of the collectors brought in, despite may warning on radiation absorption and possible heat strains, we're using 7k Xenon, in the glass, they were used. The filter, as forseen, cracked. Even though no heat, the radiant energy within the visible spectrum absorbed is high enough. Mainly, as long as the image is bright and sharp, the sound nicely stereophonic, folks will like the film and forget about the fading.
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John Pytlak
Film God
Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 02-17-2001 08:19 AM
Brett Rankin asked: "Why would a negative retain better color than a print made at around the same time? Is it that the prints were processed in a different way than a camera negative, or that camera negative is totally different than print negative, or am I way off?"Color negative and intermediate films use different dye-forming couplers than print films, optimized for that application. Negative and intermediate films are processed in the ECN-2 process, which uses a different color developing agent (CD-3) than the more active (for higher contrast) CD-2 used in the print processes: http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/support/processing/h24m7.shtml http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/support/processing/h249/index.shtml Film processing conditions play a major role in image stability. For example, inadequate washing may leave a bit of fixer in the print (residual thiosulfate) which is known to hurt dye stability: http://www.kodak.com/country/US/en/motion/support/h1/preservation.shtml#processing Heat and humidity during storage also hurt image and support stability. Release prints often have been stored in unconditioned warehouses and shipping depots, whereas the distributors generally store the original elements in conditioned film vaults: http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/support/technical/care.shtml http://www.cinesite.com/la/presrest/protek.html For those who are storing film, SMPTE Recommended Practice RP131 specifies Storage of Motion Picture Films. The latest revision of SMPTE RP131 is posted on the SMPTE website for public comment: http://www.smpte.org/stds/rp131.pdf ------------------ John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging Eastman Kodak Company Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419 Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243 E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion
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John Pytlak
Film God
Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 02-17-2001 08:29 AM
Darryl Spicer said: "Also these 70mm prints are blow-ups from the 35mm negatives. I remember when Ron Howard made Far and Away. I remember reading that the 70mm negative was opticaly transfered to 35mm negative and then blown back up to 70mm."First, "Far and Away" used 65mm camera negative film, not 70mm. It would be unlikely that a 35mm reduction intermediate film was made, and then blown-up to 65mm duplicate negative for the 70mm prints. What you probably heard was that a 35mm reduction was made to make the 35mm prints. Many 70mm features since the mid '60s (e.g., "Doctor Zhivago") were shot on 35mm film, and then blown-up a 65mm negative to make the 70mm prints. Other examples include the Star Wars trilogy, the Indiana Jones trilogy, and more recent films like "Titanic", which was shot in "Super-35". But starting with a 65mm negative (e.g., "Far and Away", "Hamlet", "Patton", "The Sound of Music", "My Fair Lady", etc.)will usually give the ultimate in quality. ------------------ John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging Eastman Kodak Company Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419 Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243 E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion
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