The first thing I tried was to wrap what I like to call a "filmbelt" around the print, which eliminates the tail tuck altogether. The filmbelt is a piece of film (I use blank film that has been 'erased' and can be obtained from Kodak... at least that's what the film itself says) that is taped to itself and stays on the platter deck as the film ends. It can then be slid over the top of the print easilly for the next show. When I use this, sometimes the static seems to go away altogether for some reason, as if the tail tuck was causing the erratic feedout (I wouldn't be surprised if it were). Sometimes the tuck can interfere as the film is being pulled toward the brain, as the film must be pulled over the tail and can, in my experience, initiate improper feed. This will cause the print to slide all over, the print will become misshapen, and the tail to become untucked. Not good. The filmbelt will prevent the tuck from initiating any problems. If the tuck itself is not the problem, then the filmbelt will prevent the film from sliding all over the platter (in my experience). I do not ever recommend suction cups as they are pretty much worthless, and the filmbelt does a much better job. If you insist on using suction cups, then I recommend TECO pucks, which are quicker and easier to use, and far more effective in my opinion.

I like the idea of a thick film band around the roll. Another idea is to restrain the outside of the feed roll with a solid hoop or ring. A plastic "Hula Hoop" may work for shorter features. Or a restraining ring could be made out of a section of heavy garden hose or flexible plastic pipe --- could even make the diameter adjustable by linking the two ends into a hoop with a smaller diameter hose. Still need to attach the restraining hoop to the platter surface, which could be done with the suction cup clips or "Stick-A-Poos".

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Anyway, I did find out that if I go up and let the edge of a long screwdriver glide along the edge of the last reels for a couple seconds the static goes away!

Sounds like the print has no path to ground through the platter, so static is able to build up. Touching the film edge with the screwdriver is providing a path to ground, allowing the static to discharge. Even though the print film has a conductive backside layer, the static must have a path to ground, or it can build up and cause inter-layer sticking.

You should definitely be sure the platter surface is clean and free of non-conductive oxide buildup. Be sure the platter frame is well grounded. Treat the surface of the platter and any rollers with a conductive antistat like Static Guard or Endust for Electronics. There are also conductive brushes on the market that gently contact the film while running to assure a path to ground for any static buildup:
Kinetronics Anti-Static Brushes

The last reels of longer movies tend to have the most problems with "static cling", since the film is pulling away at such a shallow angle as the feed point gets further from the center. That is why longer movies like "Ali" and "Lord of the Rings" seem to have more static problems. Additional things to try are measuring and maintaining the proper relative humidity (50 to 60 percent RH is best), winding the film with the opposite orientation (so the natural curl of the film helps resist pulling-in), checking platter timing and leveling, and better restraining of the outside of the roll to prevent sliding and "static fling".
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John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7525A
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion