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This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2
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Author
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Topic: Threading question
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Erick Ojeda
Film Handler
Posts: 26
From: Vineland, NJ
Registered: Nov 1999
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posted 12-12-1999 11:03 AM
Hi everyone, I was reading the Pet Peeves topic when I came across George Roher's pet peeve on operators who thread by throwing the leader onto the floor, threading the projector, and then lacing the platter. When I was trained, I was told to throw the leader onto the floor, thread the projector, and then walk the leader over to the platter. I know doing it this way will most likely pick up dirt onto the leader, which then will go onto the first trailer, but this is the way I was tought how to thread. I've read and heard about threading the platter first, and then the projector, but how is this done, and what are other good ways to thread? Thanks for any replies. Erick
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John Walsh
Film God
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Posts: 2490
From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Registered: Oct 1999
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posted 12-12-1999 01:04 PM
Personally, I dislike the method of pulling the film all the way to the platter, then going back to thread the projector. Of course, it can be done (keeping the film clean) but you must be more careful. While people start out being careful, they end up allowing the film to drape onto the floor, or the platter unexpectedly takes up the film when you are not ready.I start by pulling the 'head' end to the projector. Then pull the film down to "10" creating big loops, which I hang on the dowser handle. Thread the projector, then holding onto the loops (but letting them pay out as you go) thread the platter. I have new people pay the film into a small, clean office-type trash can, until they get used to handling film. Anyone who just pays it onto the floor deserves coal in their stocking.
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Brad Miller
Administrator
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Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-12-1999 02:51 PM
All of my trainees are taught to thread the film from platter...bypassing the projector...and back to platter. This keeps the film off of the floor.Next they place the film onto the last sprocket (holdback sprocket) in the soundhead and THEN pull a bit of slack from the takeup (to start the takeup platter) while they thread the film through the failsafe and under the lower arm roller. From that point, the projector is threaded UP (literally), pulling any necessary slack from the top (feed platter). The film NEVER touches the floor when threaded in this manner and it is significantly faster than any other method. Of course, newbie projectionists pick this up right away as they don't know any different, but the guys who've been around the booth for years and years often have difficulties threading in this manner. Some people just seem to think the projector must be threaded in the direction of film travel. ![](http://www.film-tech.com/ubb/wink.gif) An acceptable solution for those who insist on threading down is to keep a clothespin beside each projector and once the film is threaded platter to platter, clip the film to the base of the soundhead (to keep it off the floor) while the projector is threaded. Also, the trick in threading platter to platter and keeping the leader from hitting the floor is to NOT thread the lower arm roller. The film must be brought from platter to the upper magazine roller and then straight back to the platter. This will keep the film far away from the floor.
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Erick Ojeda
Film Handler
Posts: 26
From: Vineland, NJ
Registered: Nov 1999
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posted 12-12-1999 08:04 PM
Brad: I'm going to interpret what you said, so see if I understand it right. The film goes from the feed out platter, unto the top roller above the projector, back to the take up arm on the platter, and to the take up platter. After hooking the leader to the ring, place the take up arm on the platter to the ready position, and turn the knob on the take up platter to rewind. Now, take the film, and place it in the last sprocket in the soundhead, pull the slack that will be going to the take up platter while threading the failsafe, and bottom roller below the projector. The platter will take up the leader, and now just thread the projector, so once I'm done threading, and make sure the projector is threaded correctly, I can just hit the start button on the automation. I believe this is how you explianed it. I have one more question. When I thread the platter, and turn the knob on the take up platter to rewind, wouldn't the platter begin to start taking the leader before I can get back to the projector, which then I wouldn't have any slack to work with?
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Paul Konen
Jedi Master Film Handler
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Posts: 981
From: Frisco, TX. (North of Dallas)
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 12-12-1999 11:07 PM
I always thread up on my Christies (P35GPS). I do like others, payout platter to top roller on projector back to platter takeup. Pull some slack to start threading, failsafe first, the bottom constant speed roller, close pad roller and then engage takeup arm on platter. Continue threading up. Once inside gate, frame it, close gate and then turn hand crank until intermittent wants to turn, open pad clamp on middle roller and and pull film until it contacts open pad, close pad, adjust sound head tension and then continue through the top of the projector.In doing this, I have found that I create very consistent loops. Paul
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John Walsh
Film God
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Posts: 2490
From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Registered: Oct 1999
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posted 12-13-1999 03:32 PM
Like everything else, threading platter to platter may work better in your particular situation. Any method that keeps it clean and does'nt jerk or pull, etc. is OK.'Threading backwards' from bottom to top does take some practice. I have done it, with a Christie AW5 and a Cinemeccanica V9, and found it very easy to do with that combination. A V9 is usually a very 'open' machine with no doors and lots of room. A 'closed' projector (like a Simplex or Century) might be harder to get used to. So, I'm not totally against it. Now if Brad, (or just about anyone who posts here) wanted to do something in a particular way, there would be no problem. Everyone here probably has a real interest and knows what they are doing, or are willing to learn. But, the people I train not only know nothing about projection, they _don't want to learn_. When they first start working, it is implied to them that the box office and candy stand are the most important, and projection is just another part of the theater, no more or less important than the bathrooms. And, I get about 4 days to teach them. They get very unhappy; not only do they find it is harder then the other stuff (and they feel mis-lead), they don't get any extra money. Then, after barely knowing anything, they get dropped-kicked to another theater with different equipment, where they now must train others. The platter they are now using may be more sensitive and take up the film when they are not ready, the projector's different, the film may run up against where oil collects, etc. I feel I need one method that stresses basic film handling, etc.; that will work with just about any projector/platter combination (even reels); that they will remember well enough (after not wanting to learn it in the first place) to teach others after being 'shipped-out.' So, I find that 'top-down' (actually, Gordon's method: intermittent sprocket first) works best. I find that for new people, it is more intuitive. I tell them; When you get good at the basics, then you can do whatever you want. Of course, YMMV. I also make sure they learn to thread such that, with only a few turns by hand, the film is at the right 'start' frame (for us it's "10"). I get real upset when someone 'gooses' the projector down with the motor. I know a guy who killed a AAII that way. (Although, to the AAII's credit, it took almost 10 years!)
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