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Author
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Topic: Big Strong Flakes
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Ian Price
Phenomenal Film Handler
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Posts: 1714
From: Denver, CO
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 01-19-2000 12:04 AM
In our new cinema we have noticed some problems with flaking. We are showing Some Like it Hot which is Black and White with North by Northwest, which is color. Some Like it Hot produces lots of powder and North by Northwest doesn't, so I know it is because it is a black and white print. They flake. In my house with Girl Interrupted I am getting big flakes, not powder. The former projectionist said, "Oh, it always does that." I am going to look at the steel, trap bands and see if they need to be replaced. Is there anyplace else in a Strong Simplex that you would recommend that I look for problems? I went to Radio Shack and bought a couple of cans of air for $20 in order to blow out the projectors. Can you recommend a similar product at a lower price?
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Bryan Montgomery
Film Handler
Posts: 3
From: Chillicothe,Ohio USA
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 01-19-2000 01:29 AM
Film Guard will solve your flaking problems. Dont mess with using S.C. Johnson's Paste Wax on the print edges as Kodak recomends,it works,(slowly)but leaves the print dangerously slippery and leaves residue in the head. Film Guard, no flake,no fuzz,no fuss.An alternative to buying the compressed air cans is the RAC from , I believe, Kinetronics. It is a lot like the commercial cans you use, but it's refillable when empty. When you tank it out,place it in it's base and it refills it automatically.They also have handy attachments. (It;s an idea I had long ago and should have patented.) It may be pricey up front (I'm not sure) but it has to be more economical in the long run.
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John Pytlak
Film God
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Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 01-19-2000 02:45 PM
Although modern print films are quite resistant to abrasion, certain projectors may abrade the perforation and edge area more than others, resulting in flaking and dusting. Projector abrasion can be alleviated by proper print lubrication after processing, as specified in Kodak's processing specifications H-24.02 and H-24.09, and in SMPTE Recommended Practice RP151. Unfortunately, most laboratories no longer edge-wax 35mm prints because of the environmental restrictions on the solvents used to dissolve the wax.In the October 1994 issue of "Film Notes for Reel People" (H-50-34), Kodak proposed the use of SC Johnson Paste Wax applied to the sidewalls of the wound film as an "EMERGENCY" method of lubricating prints that had not been properly lubricated, and were being abraded by certain projectors. The Summer 1998 issue of "Film Notes for Reel People" also discusses projector dusting: http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/newsletters/reel/summer98/pointer.shtml As noted, care is needed in applying the correct amount of paste wax to be sure it penetrates to the edges and perforation area where it is needed, without getting into the picture area or building up in the projector. The article clearly states the care needed to apply the wax properly, and that "the added wax will make the film roll more slippery". Other proprietary post-process lubricants are on the market. Kodak has avoided recommending any particular proprietary film treatment because of the potential for misuse and possible adverse effect on the film. For example, in some areas of the world, mineral oils have been used as film lubricants, causing oil mottle, winding problems, stickiness, and leaching of the oil-soluble dyes from the film. Foreign materials (especially oils) applied to the film may later interfere with rewash processes and base treatments sometimes used by distributors to "rejuvenate" used prints. As the Film Notes for Reel People article recommends, first find out what area of the projector is causing the abrasion. In most cases, the gate bands/rails or the intermittent sprocket shoe are the culprits. Check for any burrs, rough spots or buildup of hard debris. Use the lowest tension for the gate that will maintain a steady and sharp image. Use the lowest tension for the sprocket shoe that will keep the film properly wrapped on the sprocket. Clean and lightly lubricate these film-contacting components before each show. (Use a stick of carnauba wax, hard paraffin wax, or a very thin coating of paste wax). When using a proprietary film treatment, follow instructions carefully, and be careful not to apply too much. Rely on the experiences of others in choosing a treatment, and recognize that some treatments may cause problems if the prints are later rejuvenated. If oil mottle (streaking and blotching), winding problems, stickiness, dye leaching (colored spots) or other problems are encountered, you may be misusing the film treatment product. ------------------ John Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist Worldwide Technical Services, Professional Motion Imaging Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419 Eastman Kodak Company Rochester, NY 14650-1922 USA Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243 john.pytlak@kodak.com
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Randy Stankey
Film God
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Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 01-19-2000 04:16 PM
When we had 'dandruff' problems at TT-17, in the days before FilmGuard, we found that ONE of our gates was too tight which resulted in 'scuffing' of the print edges. When that ONE projector scuffed the print, it ran dirty forever more. We could run a film for two months and have no more than the 'normal' amount of shedding. If you were lucky, only a little bit of pink powder. Once we put the print through proj. #6, it immediately started shedding and even if you moved the print to another house, it STILL shed.Have your tech check the trap to shoe alignment. (On my Century SA-TA's, I use the 1/4 inch allen wrench 'trick'.) Once that proj. was fixed, the problem pretty much disappeared. With FilmGuard, it's 100% non-existant!
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Ian Price
Phenomenal Film Handler
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Posts: 1714
From: Denver, CO
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 01-20-2000 11:01 AM
George,North by Northwest is a gorgeous print. It was brand new. It had only been plattered once before. Our Some like it Hot print is equally nice. That's why we got them. Look for Rear Window later this year. Andrew, There are no problems with ventilation in our booth. Apparently, nobody in Santa Rosa has heard of weather stripping. My cat's favorite sport is sticking her paws under the doors and batting at whatever is outside. I have to solve a ¼ inch light gap in our auditorium exit doors. Thanks Carl, I will look into that. I want to solve the problem before I am covering it up.
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