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Topic: Help with an ORC 1000

Pete Lawrence
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 192
From: Middleburg, PA
Registered: Aug 1999

posted 03-22-2000 06:22 PM

I have acquired (for better or worse, no laughing please) a low mileage ORC1000 lamp house in working condition. Here's my question. What is the correct and safe way to remove the bulb from this thing. The reflector needs a serious cleaning and I don't want to do it with the bulb installed. I do have the protective sleeve kit for this lamp. I also have the safety equipment and have changed xenon lamps before. I need to know if there are any things like hidden locking screws or such.

While were at it, does anyone have the complete manual for the ORC 1000? The one in Brad's manuals section has the schematics and some parts drawings but is missing quite a few sections.

Thanks,
Pete

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99

posted 03-22-2000 09:01 PM

To remove the lamp you need the tube that it was packed in. One end has 2 notches that will fit over the pins on the cathode end of the lamp. Once over the pins the tube is turned and all the unthreading stress is on the pins only protecting the lamp
Is this a M1000 with the built in rectifier if so it is actually rated for 700 watt lamps only

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John Eickhof
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 588
From: Wendell, ID USA
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 03-22-2000 11:13 PM

Hi, the lamp sleeve was supplied by ORC and OSRAM only, if you have one that does not have any slots to engage the pins, you will have to remove the top cover of the unit, (four screws , one may be 'funny' 3 bladed)
then loosen the lamp carefully with your fingers on the pins, then you can unscrew it from the front and remove it. Reverse this proceedure to install the lamp. If yours is an early one, to get to the lamp you will have to remove four screws holding the negative lens in the front of the lamp, then you can access the anode lead and the lamp. If it is a later one the neg. lens holder is
hinged with a key lock. I can provide you with the special '3 blade screwdriver' a complete instruction book, a good negative lens and any other parts / information you need for these. I have serviced all versions
of the M1000 since the first models. I stock
most the electronic replacemenst and circuit boards for them. (More than Strong has left on hand!!) Email me for details. John

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99

posted 03-23-2000 02:56 PM

To answer your question about the reflector.....
You can get some reflector polish from Ultraflat and try that. It usually works well. If that does not work try some "Mothers Polish" which you can get at most large auto parts stores. Get the cleaner part of the polish(its actually 3 steps) and use that. Its a bit coarser polish but it will get even the most stubborn grime and oxidation off and the improvement is well worth the effort.
Mark

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Pete Lawrence
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 192
From: Middleburg, PA
Registered: Aug 1999

posted 03-24-2000 08:19 PM

I want to thank everyone who took the trouble to reply to my questions. This forum is a fantastic source of good information! But you already know that

To answer everyone in one post...

Gordon: Yes this is the integrated power supply unit. But, as this is only a hobby with me, I'm only trying to fill a 10 foot screen. I won't be pushing it and should do fine. The plastic sleeve had the notches and the lamp came out and went back in with no problem.

John: The three slot security screws came out with a small regular flat blade screw driver. Some security! The front door is the key lock type and a local locksmith made me two keys for it as a favor. I'll drop you an e-mail as I do need the negative lens for 35mm. There is only a flat piece of glass in front (not a dichroic filter) to contol the air flow.

Mark: The reflector is metal made of a heavy nickle plate covered with a very thin aluminum deposit. Ultraflat's cleaner is to expensive! I'm being cheap about this. I couldn't find the Mother's Polish you suggested, but I still want to try it when I can. I did find a very smooth aluminum polish by Noxon. Works very well, but I had to be careful so as not to go to deep. The reflector was pretty bad but cleaned up almost like new.

Also thanks to the two people who responded by email.

Thanks again,
Pete

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