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This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2
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Author
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Topic: cleaning procedures
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Richard Quesnelle
Film Handler
Posts: 67
From: Penetang, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 03-28-2000 11:15 PM
Hi film handlers.I was just wondering if there is a certain routine that many use in cleaning the projector equipment before, after, and weekly showings. At the cinema that I work at, we clean the sprocket and the inside with an old toothbrush and wipe down the inside to pick up any oil and dirt. We also wipe the lenses with a lens tissue fairly often. That's about all we do (or should I say was tought). If anyone has any tips or routines to follow, I would gladly appreciate the help. Thanks
Reg
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Scott Norwood
Film God
Posts: 8146
From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas)
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 03-29-2000 07:21 AM
Shop rag is good. I've also used Q-tips, which can be useful on 16mm equipment, though the foam-tip ones are definitely preferred over the cotton ones.
Rubbing alcohol works, although 98% alcohol is better. Keep the alcohol away from film (duh). Clean all the usual stuff--gate and trap are most important, but fire rollers/platter rollers are also important. Generally, I didn't touch the sound optics, since they shouldn't get dirty unless the projector is over-oiled or something. If I'd had the soundhead alignment test films, then I would have been more aggressive with the soundheads. Be careful around plastic parts.
Toothbrushes are good for sprockets, shoes, pad rollers, etc.
Don't clean lenses unless they're obviously dirty. Just keep them in a lens cabinet or, at least, with caps on when they're not in use and they should be fine as long as the projector isn't horribly over-oiled.
I usually just used VMAP naptha from the local hardware store as my preferred degreaser since it is readily available and cheap. I'm sure that there's better stuff out there, though.
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John Pytlak
Film God
Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 03-29-2000 09:43 AM
Keep degreaser away from ANY bearings. Use a hard-bristle, clean toothbrush to clean deposits off rollers, sprockets, gate rails, etc. Use non-metallic pick (e.g, plastic guitar pick, hardwood or plastic manicure tool) to dislodge any hardened gelatin buildup on gate. Metal or abrasive tools may nick or damage polished surfaces. Never clean the projector while the motor is running --- a rag or toothbrush caught by a turning sprocket spells disaster, not to mention the personal safety issue.Loose dust on lenses is best brushed away with a clean, soft camels hair lens brush. Compressed air may force dirt into the lens. Never rub the optical surfaces with a dry cloth or tissue, and use liquid lens cleaner and lens cleaning tissue only when there is dirt that cannot be brushed away (e.g., a fingerprint or oil spot). When using liquid lens cleaner, just slightly dampen the lens tissue, and be careful not to get liquid into the lens. Don't forget to clean both sides of the port glass. Use the same care as in cleaning a lens, so as not to scratch the surface. Anti-reflection coated, optical quality glass is highly recommended to increase light output and reduce flare.
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John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Professional Motion Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
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Randy Stankey
Film God
Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 03-29-2000 01:28 PM
What about cleaning the port glass? I have tried everything I know and it still comes out looking CRUMMY! This has been a thorn in my side for years! One of the managers used to get on my case about it all the time. We got in an argument over it one morning and I said, "Here! You show me how to clean it!". She did and it looked great but once you turn the projector on and the light hit it you'd think a dog had been licking the glass! She stopped harassing me about it but that still doesn't get the glass clean. I've tried all sorts of store-bought cleaners, 100% alcohol, industrial cleaners -- Nothing seems to work. The best thing I can do is use regular old Windex.
I spray sparingly (2-3 squirts) and wipe with a clean paper towel until almost dry. Then I take another clean towel and wipe again until it's completely dry. I know the glass is just plain old plate glass but you should still be able to get it clean! Heck, at Mercyhurst, it's tempered glass and I have far better luck getting that clean!
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Dave Williams
Wet nipple scene
Posts: 1836
From: Salt Lake City, UT, USA
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 03-29-2000 02:47 PM
My philosophy in cleaning the port glass is very simple, less is more. I hate chemicals (due in part to the fact that they hate me more). We use DAWN dish detergent. Thats right kiddies, DAWN. We put a few drops into a bucket, put in warm water, get a cloth designed to be scratch resistant to glass, and then wipe it down, then dry it with a dry cloth of the same kind. Comes up clean every time, and wont attract dirt or dust for much longer than normal, usually about two to three weeks before you need to clean it again. Same for the lenses.As for the projectors themselves, we just hose em down once a year. Ok thats not true, but we do wipe em down as often as possible. They are simplex xl's, and with film-guard, they just don't every get that dirty. ------------------
"If it's not worth doing, I have allready been there and done it"
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Nick Perry
Film Handler
Posts: 19
Registered: Feb 2000
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posted 03-30-2000 02:54 AM
I have the all projector rollers, sprockets, gate, sound head cleaned after each show using a rag, toothbrush & paintbrush. To clean gate and sounddrum I use heavily diluted windex. It's about 1 part windex:6 parts water. This gets the gate spotless.
ALL rollers on the platter system and payout module are also dusted after each show.
Optics are cleaned with pure alhohol and cottin buds once a week.
Lenses are cleaned once a month.
Port glasses are done once a week.
Once a week as part of a strict maintenance roster, all rollers, projector housing, platter posts and arms, base of projector, audio rack, plates, and portholes are given a good clean using a rag, spray and wipe, and metho(on all projector and platter parts).There's alot more but it's very location orientated. I suggest you have a go at devising your own daily maintenance roster that staff sign off on when completed.
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John Pytlak
Film God
Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 03-30-2000 06:36 AM
Randy: Plain plate or window glass often has optical imperfections that look like uncleanable scum in the intense light of the projected beam. With age, this scum tends to get worse. I've also seen plain glass with minute "bubbles" inside. All of these factors tend to scatter light, causing optical flare and loss of contrast on the screen. Unless the glass has anti-reflection coatings, you may lose more than 10 percent of your light (that nice bright picture on the back wall or ceiling of the projection room is stealing light from the audience).Port glass should aways be installed at an angle to the projected light beam, so as not to reflect light back into the lens. Check out my article on "Conquering Contrast Killers": http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/newsletters/reel/december99/pytlak.shtml ------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Professional Motion Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
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