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Topic: The Projectionist's Toolbelt
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Richard Quesnelle
Film Handler
Posts: 67
From: Penetang, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 05-03-2000 03:27 PM
What are the needed tools of a projectionist?I have not done any real repairs on projectors to date but I am planning to rebuild an old Century C projector. P.S. What is the method used to stripping apart a projector head, i.e. what to take off first, what to clean the gears with, etc. Thanks Rockin' Rich Quesnelle
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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster
Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 05-03-2000 05:39 PM
Richard,
Here is briefly what you need to do to rebuild a machine. Note that attention to detail is a must, and the first thing of order here to nail in place in your mind. No exceptions. This listing is meant only as a guide and includes tips on a number of important things. It does not include anything about overhauling the intermittant. That in itself is another chapter and don't attempt it without experienced help!
Danger: Will Robinson!! Expect to spend around a grand or more U.S. to properly rebuild and refinish a model C or SA and movement.
How to clean it depends on what kind of grease was used on it. Usually they are filthy, have a ton or lubriplate or wheel bearing grease on it. Lubirplate is one of the worst to use on a Century!! It dries up and hardens fast. Use only SuperLube, a silicon based lubricant. This is sold by Wolk and larger bearing houses. ANy operator or Tech that uses LubriPlate should be made to stand in the corner of the booth for 15 min.!
I completely strip down the machine and clean everything but the main castings in a standard parts cleaning machine to remove the heavy grease, then a 2nd clean up in a non voliatile solvent, then a final cleaning in a biodegradable cleaner followed by a hot water rinse off. Wipe down each part right away so you don't allow any surface rust to form. Dip all gears in LaVezzi oil and let them drain off. Carefully inspect all gears, shafts and hardware for excess wear and or damage and replace anything thats worn or that may be damaged...including scored shafts. On Centurys machines replace gears in pairs! Scoring typically happens where the bearing rides on the shaft(s), or where the intermittant drive gear slides up and down the verticle shaft.
I take all the castings to a dip type paint stripping place. This assures you that all tolerances will be maintained. If you sand blast the castings then you will likely loose the tight tolerance that are built into older machines.
Mask the castings and prime them with zinc chromate primer and follow with an industrial hammertone or powder finish. Wrinkle finishes look neato but hold dust and are time consuming to clean. High quality wrinkle finish is actually a lost art and the paint is very hazardous. The typical wrinkle finish in a spray bottle is junk. Smaller parts can be masked and painted the same way but hand painting can be done while you wait for the batch of main castings to come back. You can bake it on in your kitchen oven(while your wife is gone!)and get professional quality results. Temp not over 200 degrees f. for about 20 min. do a trial here, as alot depends on the paint. At my shop, I used to use a baking oven to cure and harden my paint. The quality I got was better than what canme out on most factorys new stuff. Be aware though that very accurate masking is required with either route and especially with powder finish as it literally has to be machined off....or dynamited back off once baked and cured. My Vista Machine pictured on the Film-Tech pictures page was powder coated and I forgot to mask one small area %!!!#@????? Argh! Cant remember which grade of TNT I used......... Check all shafts for straightness in V blocks using a dial indicator. This is important in a Century!! Replace any shafts that are not straight, and try to get the new LaVezzi hardened Stainless Steel Verticle Shaft. Its really good. After coating everything with LaVezzi oil, re-assemble all the sub assemblys using new bearings, spacers, washers and especially new wavey washers as per the factory manual which is available here on Film-Tech. Note that some older C's have a countersunk, top cap on the verticle shaft. Later C's have a screw on top cap tightened with 2 set screws. I prefer that one as you can properly set bearing preload alot easier. If you replace the shaft be sure to get the screw on bearing cap top for it if needed.
First carefully reinstall the newly made up wire harness that you had made up while the castings were out for stripping. This is important as the old harness is probably impregnated with oil/grease and can be a fire hazard. Also replace the small AC connector at the bottom front of the casting with a plate,strain releif, and grounded line cord. The small connectors are no longer acceptable to UL.
Next re-assemble the framing assembly and the framing shaft back into the main frame......properly. Coat the sliding surfaces with SuperLube...not LubriPlate, This is a very important part of the machine.
Then install the fire shutter assembly, the main drive assembly at the bottom of the main casting. Then the vert. shaft and shutter shaft assys. Be sure all paint is cleaned off the framing assembly where the intermittant drive gear bearing support clamps into it. This is necessary so you don't exert any undue force against the verticle shaft and force it from being straight. The intermittant drive gear bearing block should slide right into the framing assy. I've seen many projectors with paint all over this part of the framing casting. Its a bad deal and you need to scrape it off first.
Thats about it for now. Others that post here will undoubtly have better ideas or other methods. These basic methods have worked well for me on several hundred Centurys. This will get you through the brunt of it and leave you a very nice machine. Have fun!
Mark
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