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Platters with non-conductive (plastic, painted, or anodized) surfaces tend to be more prone to "static cling" problems, because there is no "path to ground" for any static buildup. Be sure to electrically ground the platter frame, and periodically treat the platter surface and rollers with a conductive antistatic treatment like "Static Guard" or "Endust for Electronics". These materials increase the surface conductivity of the platter and rollers, so static buildup can dissipate faster.

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I actually saw someone clean AW-3 platters with alcohol. Do not do this as it will tend to oxidize the aluminum.

To help with static discharge, Christie has had machined aluminum rollers for quite some time, and they really work well.

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For cleaning platters, see the Christie platter tips page and follow the instructions for "buffing/grooving" the decks.

Anyhow, prior to my employment at my old theater, I was told that there had been a very bad case of platter fling. Call the hula-hoop a security blanket if you will, but it did save our asses on a few occasions--and I do not believe that it had anything to do with platter timing.

Remember to properly ground the platter. That one aluminum roller on the pay-out head really made a difference!--along with Film-Guard!

You dont clean your platter decks?! Unfortunately, we did not have a very good ventalation/filteration system in our booth, and our equipment was subjected to outside dirt. Cleaning the decks was very important--mild soap and water per Christie's suggestion. I always cleaned my decks before doing any build-up of a new print! And then used new Film Guard media and pads for the dry run Thurs night for Fri. openings--no streaking problems, either because of this. In addition, decks were cleaned every week as part of daily maintenance.

By the way Joe, is "Bevin-Poo" a rip on Englands Foreign Minister

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I agree with Brad that if the platters are timed properly there should be no problem of the tuck coming undone (assuming that the tuck was performed correctly as well).

Once when I was opening up a new booth, one of the projectionists told me that we were not allowed to tuck the prints because "technically that is damaging the print". Apparently a technician had told him this (or that's what he said). I took this "logical" reasoning and ignored it. Never had any problems due to a tuck becoming undone. Even if the tail comes undone, it shouldn't fall off of the deck (of course, this is again assuming a correctly timed platter and a well done tuck). Unfortunately, there are many ways to create a "bad" tuck as well.

Also, Paul:
When you splice at the platter NEVER press down onto the deck as you splice (on ANY type of platter). Instead, lift the splicer up and close it with your hands to make the splice.

Don't believe everything you read, Will.

Perhaps this picture of Titanic in 70mm TUCKED will make you cringe. Did it dump? Hell no! (Look at the middle platter.) I've also come onto a shift where a new projectionist was running long movies (3 hour range) and forgot to tuck the tail or secure it in any fashion. Did it dump? Nope! It's all in the timing of the platters and the buffing of the decks (assuming the booth doesn't have a static problem or uses FilmGuard).

you can use 409 to clean them just use a dry cloth to dry them off. The platter surface is actually a type of formica like is used on some concession stands.

Make sure the take up roller on acumulator arm is adjusted so the only the edge of the film rubs the metel flang around platter deck. If it is too low it will scratch the film

In the brain you will find some nylon plastic looking stems sticking up. Remove the one that runs between the rollers in brain. Film can get rapped around this one easy if you are not careful.

The motors on these always seemed to eat up the brushes quickly. Keep an eye on these and change when needed. When these wear out platter can run eratically.