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Topic: Saving a intermittent

Mark Huff
Film Handler

Posts: 69
From: Springfield, IL, USA
Registered: May 2000

posted 07-09-2000 05:58 PM

Does anyone have any suggestions for trying to save a Century SA intermittent. It has just started to knock and the picture is starting to jump just a little bit. It has oil in it but has started to knock. I will hate to have to spend the money to replace it if it can be fixed.

I will try anything to help prolong the problem.

Thanks

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Luther M. Spencer
Film Handler

Posts: 33
From: North Charleston,SC, USA
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 07-09-2000 06:15 PM

I am sorry I couldn't resist.....Why would you want to prolong the problem...Serously....I don't know much about century's but I do know that in a Simplex type...You can replace a few parts the... Maltese cross and pin I believe they are called..But I am Pretty new at 35mm...I could be wrong...Mike

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Ken Layton
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1452
From: Olympia, Wash. USA
Registered: Sep 1999

posted 07-09-2000 06:28 PM

Sounds like it's got some miles on it and it's ready for rebuilding. Is the oil at the proper level and is it clean?

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Mike Jones
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 108
From: Birmingham, MI, USA
Registered: Jul 2000

posted 07-09-2000 06:56 PM

Fix it now before it gets worse. Simply have it rebuilt, it will cost around $1,000, but its better than having a jumping picture. Plus, if you have a brainwrap and more pressure is put on it, its toast! If you don't, keep it full of oil and crank down on the film gate tension.

-mikey j

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-09-2000 07:09 PM

For starters you could just replace the Starwheel(this requires special reamers and lapping tools) and the cam pin. Sometimes the cam pin can just be reversed and the other end used but a new one is only 6 bucks or so. Usually the radius of the cam does not wear enough to warrant its replacement but the shaft may be extremely worn where it passes through the bushings. Carefully check the shaft of the cam where they pass through the bushings for extreme wear under a magnifying glass. If the wear here is very evident then you should do a total rebuild of the movement.
We offer rebuilding at 100.00 labor plus parts if you are interested. Parts at cost plus 10%. Loaner movements are available as well.
mark@getgts.com

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Greg Mueller
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1687
From: Port Gamble, WA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-09-2000 09:57 PM

Speaking of which....
does anyone know where I can get parts to rebuild a DP70 intermittent?

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Greg Mueller
Amateur Astronomer, Machinist, Filmnut

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-10-2000 09:57 AM

I have a brand new DP70 movement still in the box Greg but it isn't cheap

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Greg Mueller
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1687
From: Port Gamble, WA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-10-2000 05:25 PM

Ouch , yes I know. I have two, the one in the projector and one that came with the projector I have for spares. The guy claims it was just rebuilt (it came seperate in a box)and I've been thinking of trading them to see how well it works. At any rate I have the shop and a little spare time, and it is my hobby after all. Plus I am the curious sort, so I was thinking of tearing one down and rebuilding it, just to see if I could. Never seen the inside of one.

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Greg Mueller
Amateur Astronomer, Machinist, Filmnut

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David Kilderry
Master Film Handler

Posts: 355
From: Melbourne Australia
Registered: Sep 1999

posted 07-11-2000 03:53 AM

Yep, I've got one in the box too, rebuilt by Philips in Holland back in the 1970's. Don't think its ever been back in a machine as the movements in these seem bulletproof.

David

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-11-2000 06:42 PM

Well, almost bullit proof. If someone takes the film stripper off the trap assembley and enough film wraps around the intermittant sprocket it will eat the nice little fibre gears that run the movement! I've seen this happen. Dang gears are expensive!!
Mark

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Christopher Seo
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 530
From: Los Angeles, CA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-12-2000 03:19 PM

I'm curious as to what is involved in rebuilding an intermittent and how it could cost only $100 if most of the components are so expensive. Is there some way to refurbish the components rather than replace them?

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-12-2000 04:07 PM

Chris,
It costs alot more than 100.00 to do. Thats the amount we charge for labor to do one. We are set up do do movements, have the proper tooling(some of which can no longer be bought), equipment, and experience. Then there are the parts you have to buy......

The parts for a minor repair can run up to another 100.00. For a major overhaul 600.00 or so for all new parts is average. Some are higher, and some are lower. European movements are extremely pricy on parts. US built machines the cheapest...but still notreally cheap. An intermittant kit for a Century SA lists for 730.00. A JJ kit lists for 950.00.
A P-9710 Simplex Starwheel lists for 398.00. List on a 35mm VKF intermittant sprocket is 92.00. Perhaps this will put things into perspective a bit for you.
Use of LaVezzi synthetic intermittant oil will prolong the life of a movement or projector considerably. Any new machine, or new or rebuilt movement should get this oil.
Mark
mark@getgts.com www.getgts,com

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 07-13-2000 02:42 PM

The starwheel and cam are manufactured to tolerances much tighter than 0.0001 inches, and specially hardened. As Mark notes, it takes experience, and the right tools to make everything fit together and achieve optimum steadiness and quietness --- good parts alone don't guarantee a good rebuild. When you reinstall a rebuilt movement, check it for steadiness using a roll of the SMPTE 35-PA(RP40)Projector Alignment Film, or by pulling the aperture plate so you can see the steadiness of the film perfs along the far right side of the image. If they are "rock steady", the intermittent is doing its job.

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John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com

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Larry Shaw
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 238
From: Boston, MA, USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 07-13-2000 04:41 PM

Greg,

We have all the DP-70 parts you'd need. http://www.blsi.com/kinoton

-Larry

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Greg Mueller
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1687
From: Port Gamble, WA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-14-2000 08:57 AM

Thanks, all

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Greg Mueller
Amateur Astronomer, Machinist, Filmnut

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