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This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2
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Author
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Topic: Leaders- a how to
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Brad Miller
Administrator
Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99
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posted 08-17-2000 02:09 AM
20 feet clear 10 feet framing 40 feet clear 10 feet blackThe 20 feet is to reach from the failsafe to the platter's takeup ring. The 10 feet of framing leader is obviously to thread on. The 40 feet clear is enough to ensure that if the show is started with the curtains open, there will be enough time for the curtains to close before the actual "start" cue goes through the machine, which is placed at the start of the black. This stretch of leader also guarantees the start of the first trailer does not get damaged from airborne dust as well as providing an "abort" possibility. The 10 feet of black is used to ensure the douser will always open ON BLACK. For standard 7 second douser automations, if the douser dies, the black leader can be motored down to the first foot of it and the show can be started on the timer as normal without having to use the manual douser (great for timers). This also saves significant $$$ on leader costs, as the clear non-frameline leader is very, very cheap and comprises the majority of the leader.
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Scott Norwood
Film God
Posts: 8146
From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas)
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 08-17-2000 10:23 AM
With platters, we use the blue "NT Audio Visual" leader, which has probably 20-30 feet of clear film with framelines marked with huge blue lines and then a standard academy countdown. Usually, we add clear or black frameline leader to the head of this as well. The "home-made" alternative, which we sometimes use, would be clear or black frameline leader with a countdown before the feature.
With reels, I usually use the lab-printed leaders and tails if they aren't damaged. If they are unusually short, I will add clear leader to the heads and/or tails as necessary, which I then remove before the last show. I do save countdowns from trailers that actually include the full countdown for use when the original lab leaders are damaged or (dare I say it) missing.
If a print arrives with damaged or missing lab leaders, I generally return it with good countdowns on (at least) R1 and R4 (so that it can be shown 6000' reels without extra repair) and a few feet of clear leader on the head and tail of every reel in order to protect the image area. I, of course, also include a note to the next theatre apologizing for the condition of the print and stating that it arrived in that condition and that there was not time for a replacement to be ordered.
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John Pytlak
Film God
Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 08-18-2000 08:48 AM
What are Film-Tech film handler's preferences between polyester leaders (very durable and unbreakable) vs. triacetate leaders (breaks if there is a misthread or other problem on startup)?I recall from another thread that triacetate is a good idea for tail leader, in case the last few laps jam on the platter. But what about for head leader (threading and framing)? Do people prefer leaders that are about as stiff as the print itself, or do you prefer really "stiff" (i.e., thicker) leader for durability? ------------------ John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging Eastman Kodak Company Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419 Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243 E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
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Brad Miller
Administrator
Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99
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posted 08-18-2000 03:42 PM
I find the thicker the head leader, the harder it is to not quite get the film right on the track. This is why I've always prefered the Xetron Xelar leader, as it is the thickest I'm aware of and will last an incredibly long time. I'd be interested in seeing what FPC is making though, as I know they are manufacturing processing leader which is incredibly thick and would probably be a bit of overkill. Acetate is fine for head leader, but it just won't last too long...especially with platter setups where the upper roller is not straight up and down or the film must be wrapped around the entire projector head due to conduit. Acetate leader isn't too swinging for changeovers either with large reels, so I say stick with polyester for heads.A good alternative for making up the heads as I described above is to replace the last 10 feet of the 40 foot clear stretch with a stretch of acetate. That way if there is a misthread, it will just snap and drop the failsafes. I NEVER use polyester leader for tails. First off it is too stiff and has a tendency for a tuck to go flying out from under the print. Second, generally if the film is going to tangle, it will be in the last few rounds. I have always added 30 feet of acetate clear tail as standard practice and it has saved me much grief over the years. It also keeps the end of the credits nice and perfect.
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