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Topic: Help- Xenon XCN Console

Marc Jones
Film Handler

Posts: 82
From: Elizabethtown, KY
Registered: Jun 99

posted 08-26-2000 05:39 PM

Nuemade Console: that the bulb does not lite.
1. The bulb had 4000hrs on it so I replaced it. - no effect.
2. Verified the 3pahse power into the recterfier and contactor on the power supply, I have voltage and I ohmed out the contactor they tested OK.
3. Voltage on the +,- terminals was 3.6 v dc
0 v ac.
Any ideas
Thanks Marc Jones

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Ken Layton
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1452
From: Olympia, Wash. USA
Registered: Sep 1999

posted 08-26-2000 05:49 PM

Did you check the diodes in the power supply?

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Sean M. Grimes
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 247
From: Lunenburg, MA
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 08-26-2000 06:04 PM

Marc,

I totally agree with Ken on this one - make sure you check out the diodes with a multimeter. After working with the XCN consoles for quite a few years Almost all of the problems concerning ignition are the diodes or the contactor. Also check and make sure that the ignitor connectors are "firmly" connected. The Irem power supplies are built like a tank, at least in my opinion. But I am allways changing out the diodes.

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Marc Jones
Film Handler

Posts: 82
From: Elizabethtown, KY
Registered: Jun 99

posted 08-26-2000 06:06 PM

Not yet, I thought I'd download the manual first, I'm checking them next.
Thanks
Marc Jones

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Marc Jones
Film Handler

Posts: 82
From: Elizabethtown, KY
Registered: Jun 99

posted 08-26-2000 06:12 PM

One more quick question if I find A diode that has failed replace the bad one or all?
Thanks
Marc Jones

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99

posted 08-26-2000 06:12 PM

For the voltage to be on 3.6 volts all the diodes would have to have failed so look at the contactor and make sure there is power on both sides of it Ie it has pulled in

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Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99

posted 08-26-2000 06:32 PM

Forgive me for asking a stupid question but have you verified that any and all interlock switches are closed?

I have taken NUMEROUS calls from people at theatres who don't know what to do and EVERY SINGLE TIME it was a bad interlock (safety) switch. We had to drive 250 miles only to find that one of the switches was bad. (To the theatre's credit, it was a hidden switch)

Usually there's a switch on the door(s). Maybe one in the "stack" and likely one on the lamp blower. You'll find "proof paddles" on the blower switches. Make sure they haven't come loose and that the switches are all okay.

Again, I don't want to sound like I'm saying something stupid but we've fielded literally a DOZEN calls for this very thing. Every single one was due to a busted interlock / safety switch.

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Marc Jones
Film Handler

Posts: 82
From: Elizabethtown, KY
Registered: Jun 99

posted 08-26-2000 07:05 PM

The interlock switches seem to be working the contactor on the power supply will energize, so I assume the interlock loop is made Door switches and blower switch
Thanks
Marc Jones

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John Eickhof
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 588
From: Wendell, ID USA
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 08-26-2000 09:03 PM

Your problem is most likely the contactor. You must power up and energize the contactor, then check the voltage across each of the outputs of it to each other AND to GROUND, your reading should be 208 / 240 volts from one to another, and 120 / 195 volts from one contact to ground. (Higher voltage is for 120/240V 3 phase) If you have sufficient voltage at the output of the contactor, you may have an open transformer. Look for hot or burned connections. Good luck!

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John Walsh
Film God

Posts: 2490
From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Registered: Oct 1999

posted 08-27-2000 12:29 AM

If it's the same as ours, the XCN console (configured to run a 4000 watt lamp) has 3 interlock switches; one each in the upper and lower door key lock, and another in the larger door in the back (interlocked with the allen screw.) Also, some models have an "air-flow" vane switch (shuts off the power to the contactor if there's no air flow.) That micro-switch gets dirty, and won't move. Although, if the contactor pulls in, the interlock switches are probably OK.

There's a small fuse inside that's special; it's round and looks a little like a transistor. It's on the PC board next to the hour meter (on the inside.) It's part of the ingition system. I'm assuming you already checked the 3AG fuse, and the mechanical circuit breaker (button.)

I usually only change the one diode that went bad; they are not "matched" to each other or anything.

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99

posted 08-27-2000 08:51 AM

For there to be only 3.6 volts on the rectifiers output terminals would require all the diode to have failed not just 1 or 2

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Marc Jones
Film Handler

Posts: 82
From: Elizabethtown, KY
Registered: Jun 99

posted 08-27-2000 02:32 PM

Here is were I'm at.
1. Check Diodes and found one shorted out and replaced. Output is 3.8Vdc
2. The contactor voltage wise phase to pase checked out OK, but I did notice that it looks like the wiring to contactor has gotten hot, so I'm replacing it Monday.
The console is a 2 Kw unit.
Note one thing that was strange.
I had voltage (115V)from a phase to ground on on all three terminals on the line side, and (115V) on two of the terminals on the load side of the contactor even thought it wasn't energize.
Thanks for the help so far
Marc Jones

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99

posted 08-27-2000 02:35 PM

Soundslike it is the contactor then

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Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99

posted 08-28-2000 08:03 PM

If it ain't the interlock, diodes or bulb then I'd be looking at the contactor, too.

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Richard Hamilton
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1341
From: Evansville, Indiana
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 08-28-2000 10:02 PM

Hey Marc,
It's been a couple of years, but I remember having this same problem. It ended up being a fuse that is located near the contactor. It's a glass fuse that is in the lower compartment either beneath the contactor, or behind it(if you're looking at it from the operator side). It was a pain to find because you have to lay down to get to it.

I'm confused about what you said about the contactor. You said that the voltage "phase to phase" was O.K., I assume that this means that your getting 110V to ground on all phases of the load side of the contactor? If this is the case, it should not matter that you get any voltage when it's not energized.

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