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This topic comprises 3 pages: 1 2 3
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Author
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Topic: Projector Cleaning 101
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Dave Cutler
Master Film Handler
Posts: 277
From: Centennial, CO
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 09-24-2000 10:50 AM
Different theatres require different levels of cleaning, and I clean two different ways. For me there is cleaning and super-cleaning.Cleaning, would be a quick rub down between shows or at the end of the day, you know, whenever necessary. Could be as simple as wiping down the projector with a rag. I always take out the gate (on a Simplex), and wipe it down that way. If it needs a bit more, I wipe it down with a rag and then I would use 99% isopropyl alcohol and a Webril (100% cotton) wipe. Any surface that the film comes into contact with gets cleaned (and a few others get a quick wipe at the end). I run Film Guard frequently so I don't need to do this between every show. If the print is really shedding, the you have to clean it every show. Super-Cleaning, is when I strip the projector. With the Simplex's I used to run I would try to do this every couple of months. I cleaned everything, and I do mean everything. I took off anything that I could without haveing to re-align when I put it back in, and cleaned it throughly. Went through a lot of Q-tips when I did this, put it was worth it. The entire projector head, and sound heads would be spotless after this type of cleaning. This was a lot harder to do at a mega-plex, but I didn't have problems getting it done at smaller theatres. I have only done this on a Simplex though.
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Antonio Marcheselli
Phenomenal Film Handler
Posts: 1260
From: Florence, Italy
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 09-24-2000 05:34 PM
HelloI use to clean my two Cinemeccanica V5 MI in this way: Avery day, before show: clean the gate with someting water-based (I notice that the hard dirt on the gate come out with something like water rather than alchool), clean sound leds (SR/DD/DTS), lenses and sensors with isopropyl alcohol. Since my projs are in good condition and they don't make dirt, I think that daily this is enough. Once a week I take off the print of the projector, I manually rewind the film cleaning it with a soft cloth and I clean all the parts of projector that touch the print with alchool, isopropyl alchool or water-based product depending what I'm cleaning. Every few months I make the projector new... I disassembled everything is moving, clean it, put oil if has to rotate and reassemble. I reach this procedure after few try. My result is very good. Film is always clean and I don't have any type of problem. Sorry for eventually syntax errors! Antonio
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Randy Stankey
Film God
Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 09-24-2000 08:24 PM
There are good and bad points to using an air hose to clean projectors.1) You must be VERY careful not to blow the air on or near the lenses or the sound head. You can get a 'sand blaster' effect. (Particles of dirt can etch the glass.) And the condensation in the air stream can get into the lenses, etc. 2) It is possible to blow dirt even deeper into the projector bearings, etc. causing a sortened life span. 3) Okay, so you've carefully blown all the dust out of the projector... Where did it go? It's suspended in the air, waiting to settle back onto something else. I'd say that a vacuum cleaner is the better choice. Essentially, it's a reverse air compressor and it actually removes the dirt, rather than sending it up into the air. I'd even recommend that you use a vacuum AND a compressor at the same time; blowing with one and sucking with the other. All that having been said, I don't think a compressor is a bad idea. I just think you should use it sparingly. You shouldn't use it in place of good old fashioned paintbrush and shop rag cleanings.
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Pat Moore
Master Film Handler
Posts: 363
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 09-26-2000 07:18 AM
The Simplex shutter does not have a fixed method of reattaching to the shaft. Timing the shutter when you replace it is easy, though. Have you ever done that? Be glad to give a lesson.As for a "nub" being cracked -- the hub is a split assembly that tightens on the shaft using two screws. Where is the crack? That can happen if those screws are over-tightened. Pat
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Dave Bird
Jedi Master Film Handler
Posts: 777
From: Perth, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 09-26-2000 12:02 PM
Yes Pat the hub (nub, I was close) appears to have been overtightened, but long ago I'd say. I can't distinguish a part number from my manual, or is it just attached to the shutter itself? No, I've never timed a shutter.I was using the cotton (to wipe with alcohol)in the FRAMING side, is that a no-no? Also, what are the differences between a 2-blade and 3-bladed shutter? Thank you. ------------------ Dave Bird
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John Pytlak
Film God
Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 09-26-2000 02:46 PM
I agree with Randy that using compressed air risks getting dirt, oil, or moisture into areas you don't want them, and usually just "stirs up" the dirt, rather than truly remove it. A small shop vac or good household vacuum can be used. Use flexible vinyl hose to make custom nozzles to get the vacuum into the nooks and crannies of the projector and soundhead. A central vacuum system is ideal, because it doesn't exhaust into the booth. Unless the vaccuum has a "HEPA" rated filter, some dust gets back out into the room.NEVER clean a running projector, as the risk of injury or jamming the mechanism is too high. ------------------ John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging Eastman Kodak Company Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419 Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243 E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
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