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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Projector Cleaning 101 (Page 1)

 
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Author Topic: Projector Cleaning 101
Dave Bird
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 777
From: Perth, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Jun 2000


 - posted 09-24-2000 09:59 AM      Profile for Dave Bird   Author's Homepage   Email Dave Bird   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
How do you clean your projectors? I've been using isoprophyl alcohol with rags, paper towels, even Q-Tips (lots) to get into those really tricky spots. It's working OK, but is the best way simply to take some of the mechanisms off while cleaning? (That's the beauty of having two machines, the other to show me how to put it back together!) What do you guys do? (My machines sat for a few years, a little gunky, buggy, what have you!)

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Dave Bird

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Dave Cutler
Master Film Handler

Posts: 277
From: Centennial, CO
Registered: Jun 2000


 - posted 09-24-2000 10:50 AM      Profile for Dave Cutler   Email Dave Cutler   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Different theatres require different levels of cleaning, and I clean two different ways. For me there is cleaning and super-cleaning.

Cleaning, would be a quick rub down between shows or at the end of the day, you know, whenever necessary. Could be as simple as wiping down the projector with a rag. I always take out the gate (on a Simplex), and wipe it down that way. If it needs a bit more, I wipe it down with a rag and then I would use 99% isopropyl alcohol and a Webril (100% cotton) wipe. Any surface that the film comes into contact with gets cleaned (and a few others get a quick wipe at the end). I run Film Guard frequently so I don't need to do this between every show. If the print is really shedding, the you have to clean it every show.

Super-Cleaning, is when I strip the projector. With the Simplex's I used to run I would try to do this every couple of months. I cleaned everything, and I do mean everything. I took off anything that I could without haveing to re-align when I put it back in, and cleaned it throughly. Went through a lot of Q-tips when I did this, put it was worth it. The entire projector head, and sound heads would be spotless after this type of cleaning. This was a lot harder to do at a mega-plex, but I didn't have problems getting it done at smaller theatres. I have only done this on a Simplex though.


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Mark Huff
Film Handler

Posts: 69
From: Springfield, IL, USA
Registered: May 2000


 - posted 09-24-2000 02:07 PM      Profile for Mark Huff   Email Mark Huff   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Cotton in the intermittant?

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Scott Norwood
Film God

Posts: 8146
From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas)
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 09-24-2000 05:24 PM      Profile for Scott Norwood   Author's Homepage   Email Scott Norwood   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
What's the general opinion about using compressed air to blow the dust out of the projector/soundhead between shows? (In addition to cleaning the gate/trap area with a rag and the sprockets with a toothbrush)? I've heard reasonable-sounding arguments both for and against using compressed air.

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Antonio Marcheselli
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1260
From: Florence, Italy
Registered: Mar 2000


 - posted 09-24-2000 05:34 PM      Profile for Antonio Marcheselli   Author's Homepage   Email Antonio Marcheselli   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hello

I use to clean my two Cinemeccanica V5 MI in this way:

Avery day, before show: clean the gate with someting water-based (I notice that the hard dirt on the gate come out with something like water rather than alchool), clean sound leds (SR/DD/DTS), lenses and sensors with isopropyl alcohol. Since my projs are in good condition and they don't make dirt, I think that daily this is enough.

Once a week I take off the print of the projector, I manually rewind the film cleaning it with a soft cloth and I clean all the parts of projector that touch the print with alchool, isopropyl alchool or water-based product depending what I'm cleaning.

Every few months I make the projector new... I disassembled everything is moving, clean it, put oil if has to rotate and reassemble.

I reach this procedure after few try. My result is very good. Film is always clean and I don't have any type of problem.

Sorry for eventually syntax errors!

Antonio

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Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 09-24-2000 08:24 PM      Profile for Randy Stankey   Email Randy Stankey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
There are good and bad points to using an air hose to clean projectors.

1) You must be VERY careful not to blow the air on or near the lenses or the sound head. You can get a 'sand blaster' effect. (Particles of dirt can etch the glass.) And the condensation in the air stream can get into the lenses, etc.

2) It is possible to blow dirt even deeper into the projector bearings, etc. causing a sortened life span.

3) Okay, so you've carefully blown all the dust out of the projector... Where did it go? It's suspended in the air, waiting to settle back onto something else.

I'd say that a vacuum cleaner is the better choice. Essentially, it's a reverse air compressor and it actually removes the dirt, rather than sending it up into the air.

I'd even recommend that you use a vacuum AND a compressor at the same time; blowing with one and sucking with the other.

All that having been said, I don't think a compressor is a bad idea. I just think you should use it sparingly. You shouldn't use it in place of good old fashioned paintbrush and shop rag cleanings.

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 09-25-2000 01:34 AM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
I clean my projectors once a month. All I use is a toothbrush and a shop rag. If the belts (yes, a Christie) are shedding like mad, I'll use paper towels to wipe the majority of the crap out of there first. I've always found a paintbrush to be the most worthless thing in a booth.

Daily I'll make a quick wipe down the gate with the shop rag. That's really all that is needed, and overkill at that. The film cleaner runs every show on every screen, so the prints never shed and the machines never get dirty other than light airborne dust from the HVAC system.

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John Walsh
Film God

Posts: 2490
From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Registered: Oct 1999


 - posted 09-25-2000 11:07 AM      Profile for John Walsh   Email John Walsh   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I like using compressed air to clean things out. The only suggestion I have it to close the dowser and cap the lenses. I started blowing out V9's I was working with, and a slight oil splatter was getting on the lens... The compressed air was so strong it would blast slight amounts oil out of little nooks, and get on the lens..... took me awhile to figure out where it was comming from....

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Dave Cutler
Master Film Handler

Posts: 277
From: Centennial, CO
Registered: Jun 2000


 - posted 09-25-2000 12:52 PM      Profile for Dave Cutler   Email Dave Cutler   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Mark, what's wrong with cotton on the intermittent? As long as you make sure you don't leave pieces behind, that is.

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Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 09-25-2000 01:11 PM      Profile for Randy Stankey   Email Randy Stankey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
That 'oil' might be from the compressor itself. It could be either oil (if it's an oil bath type) or condensation from the air. When you compress the air, any water vapor gets compressed too. When it does that it turns into liquid water and appears as a fine stream of 'mist' comming out of the hose.

One possibility is to put an oil / vapor trap on the compressor, last thing on the line before the hose.

Second thing I'd do is make sure you vent the compressor tank EVERY TIME you're done using it. If not the tank will fill up with water, which will (A) be blown out the hose when you use it. and (B) eventually rust the inside of the tank and cause premature failure.

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Dave Bird
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 777
From: Perth, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Jun 2000


 - posted 09-26-2000 06:39 AM      Profile for Dave Bird   Author's Homepage   Email Dave Bird   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I like the idea of a small vacuum, where would I find such a thing? Also, is the conical shutter idiot-proof? By that, I mean if I take it off, is there only one proper "groove" for it to re-install, or will I have to be careful to get it back on where it was? Reason I ask is that one of the "nubs" holding the shutter on one machine is cracked, probably has been for a long time, but I should replace it I think. My machines are XL's. Thank you.

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Dave Bird

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Pat Moore
Master Film Handler

Posts: 363

Registered: Mar 2000


 - posted 09-26-2000 07:18 AM      Profile for Pat Moore   Email Pat Moore   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The Simplex shutter does not have a fixed method of reattaching to the shaft. Timing the shutter when you replace it is easy, though. Have you ever done that? Be glad to give a lesson.

As for a "nub" being cracked -- the hub is a split assembly that tightens on the shaft using two screws. Where is the crack? That can happen if those screws are over-tightened.

Pat


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Mark Huff
Film Handler

Posts: 69
From: Springfield, IL, USA
Registered: May 2000


 - posted 09-26-2000 07:26 AM      Profile for Mark Huff   Email Mark Huff   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The engineer I worked with went psycho if you had anything cotton in the booth. He says that cotton will always be left behind in the intermittent and damage it. Maybe it was just him.

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Dave Bird
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 777
From: Perth, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Jun 2000


 - posted 09-26-2000 12:02 PM      Profile for Dave Bird   Author's Homepage   Email Dave Bird   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yes Pat the hub (nub, I was close) appears to have been overtightened, but long ago I'd say. I can't distinguish a part number from my manual, or is it just attached to the shutter itself? No, I've never timed a shutter.

I was using the cotton (to wipe with alcohol)in the FRAMING side, is that a no-no?

Also, what are the differences between a 2-blade and 3-bladed shutter?

Thank you.

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Dave Bird

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 09-26-2000 02:46 PM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I agree with Randy that using compressed air risks getting dirt, oil, or moisture into areas you don't want them, and usually just "stirs up" the dirt, rather than truly remove it. A small shop vac or good household vacuum can be used. Use flexible vinyl hose to make custom nozzles to get the vacuum into the nooks and crannies of the projector and soundhead. A central vacuum system is ideal, because it doesn't exhaust into the booth. Unless the vaccuum has a "HEPA" rated filter, some dust gets back out into the room.

NEVER clean a running projector, as the risk of injury or jamming the mechanism is too high.

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John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com

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