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Changeovers...yes it will work. I actually DO prefer the cleaners be projector mounted as opposed to rewind table mounted (notice I said "cleaners". Mounting it on the rewind bench is fine and dandy, but you should rewind the film SLOWLY and with as little tension as is required to make a decent wind. This also applies to changeovers running 6000 foot reels. The ideal tension setting is to get yourself a reel fully loaded with film and completely back off on the back-tension. Start the projector and increase the tension just to the point where the reel does not bounce sharply and won't over spill the film upon startup. Then check the tension at the end of the reel. It should still be very light. Unfortunately, this is very difficult to achieve. (If Mr.Guttag is reading, perhaps he could post his expertise procedure for setting tension and maintaining the pads. )

By the way, Mike be sure and pick a major movie that will be around for a long time ("Get Carter" perhaps?) and use that cleaner and FG exclusively on that one print for as long as you have the print for your "demo/trial". As time passes you will truly understand and be able to appreciate what FG does. It will get better every week. Another fun demo is to monitor the error reading of a SRD or SDDS track on it's first run and compare it in that same auditorium a few months later. There is not the slightest wear, regardless of projector. In fact, my Phantom Menace print that I ran an SDDS/QC report on it's first run was worse than when I re-ran that print in that same original auditorium (nothing was done to the SDDS system between the reports as they were all tweeked right before the movie opened). Yes, the error rates IMPROVED after running the film some several hundred times.

As far as setting tension goes....that is relatively easy. There should be just enough tension so the film doesn't bounce when the reel is full. One should avoid reels that have a greater than 3:1 ratio of hub to flange though I have found that running 7" hub with 25" flange work fine as house 6000' reels. Also different clutches have different characteristics so one may have different sweet spots. I generally prefer oil soaked felt clutches over dry or leather clutches for mechanicals. Also some of those that increase tension as the weight on the reel increases are really cool.

The niftiest clutch I have worked with lately has been Kinoton's electronic frictions...they use a feedback system on the power to the torque motors to maintain an even tension from beginning to end of reel regardless of reel size (up to the maximum listed for the particular machine you ordered). You only have to tell it which size you are running for start off so it will start the reel spinning with a presumed reel weight...in any event it seems incredably smooth.

Steve

Say you are running a 2 reel feature on 6000 footers and you have 2 floating hub reels and two solid hub reels in the booth to work with. Which type of reel would you feed from and which would you takeup on? I hear differing answers from changeover masters on this one and would be interested in your opinion.

Also, large core 6000 foot reels are a bit hard to come by in typical booths. How much film would you personally feel is "the limit" to pack onto one of those for reel to reel operation given the 4 inch hub and why?

Finally, can you please elaborate on "some of those that increase tension as the weight on the reel increases" clutches that are available on the market? Also, to what degree do you "soak" the felt clutches for optimum operation?

Given the above situation, the floaters go on the take ups. In fact, floating hub reels were originally designed for auto catching take up reels (Check the Goldberg patent).

Onto the next question, the typical house reel uses a 5" hub, not 4" which is a shipping reel. Given the 3:1 ratio, a 15" reel is the largest one should run on a conventional mechanical take up though I haven't had any particular problem with runing up to 24" with floating hubs. Be that as it may, it isn't any harder to get large hub reels than 5" hub reels (I sell em both all the time). The proper tool for the job is the larger hub, period.

On the clutch lubrication...you want me to give away my secrets? ;-) The general rule is the stuffer the pad the lighter the oil....I like to soak my clutches in the oil I am using (like a coffee can or something)...always have a spare set at the ready and change as often as needed. For instance, a Kelmar clutch would only need really light oil and probably not even really soaked. A Century clutch (felt) would be a bit heavier oil, say 10W (don't use those crappy leather ones that are glazed on one side), a AAII clutch I tend to use even heavier oil 80W plus.

As to the self adjusting clutches based on weight. Army/Air Force theatres (AAFES)used/uses them exclusively and Kinoton also has and I believe still can offer them when using larger reels. The basic theory is as the reel gets heavier, it weighs down the spindle assy more and it will grip the clutch tighter (kinda like a Potts/Strong MUT) so that a heavier reel turns with more torque.

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