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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Base side scratches (Page 1)

 
This topic comprises 2 pages: 1  2 
 
Author Topic: Base side scratches
Harry Robinson
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 155
From: Franklin Tennessee
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 10-05-2000 01:53 PM      Profile for Harry Robinson   Email Harry Robinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I made a test loop of some virgin trailer footage and ran it for a few minutes on my Super Simplex. After several passes, lines began to appear on the screen. I let it run for about ten minutes, then removed the film and looked at it under light. The base side has a scratch running down one side of the film about a centimeter from the sprocket holes. There is also a slightly less distinguishable amount of abrasion in the middle of the frame. The emulsion side has evidence of some oil smudging.
How do I eliminate this base side scratching?
How do I determine the source of the damage?

As always, any suggestions from you pros will be greatly appreciated. I'm not going to run anything valuable on this projector until I see that it can function perfectly. I've heard you guys say a print should be able to run hundreds of times without showing wear. That's the kind of quality I am going for.

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Leo Enticknap
Film God

Posts: 7474
From: Loma Linda, CA
Registered: Jul 2000


 - posted 10-05-2000 05:41 PM      Profile for Leo Enticknap   Author's Homepage   Email Leo Enticknap   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Instead of a loop, prepare 100ftish of 'virgin' footage and lace it spool to spool. Run it until a couple of seconds after the projector is up to speed, then stop the motor. Now carefully unlace the projector from the top down, and note where the scratches and/or oil stains begin.

That'll show you where the problem is.

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 10-06-2000 07:20 AM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
You need to be careful when running loops. Unless the loop is run in a straight line over undercut rollers, it is very easy to scratch the loop outside the projector path and be misled. I agree with Leo that running "virgin" film, stopping the projector, and then carefully examining the film with specular light, will reveal where in the film path the scratch is occurring.

BTW, a really good way to see any scratches or abrasion on a piece of film is to hold it up in the concentrated specular beam of light coming out of a projector. A spare slide projector or spotlight shining down on the rewind bench produces a light that makes it very easy to find scratches during inspection.

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com

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Harry Robinson
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 155
From: Franklin Tennessee
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 10-06-2000 03:45 PM      Profile for Harry Robinson   Email Harry Robinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Well, I took your advise and ran some virgin film through the projector a few feet at a time. I think I have isolated the problem. The scratching occurrs at the bottom of the gate trap at the intermittent sprocket.
You can see an abrasion across the film from where I start up the projector. Before the abrasion the film is clean, after it the film has tiny streaks.
I have tried changing the spring tension, turning the piece around, you name it. Nothing totally gets rid of the abrasion. I have three gate traps of varying quality, and they all make the tiny scratches. Any ideas on how to correct this?
Thanks as always.

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 10-08-2000 02:11 PM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Harry --- you've located where the abrasion seems to be occuring. You said the abrasions are on the back side, about 1 centimetre from one set of perfs, and some in the middle of the frame. Although slight abrasion of the film edges and perforations by the gate and intermittent sprocket shoe is common, abrasion of the central image area is unusual. Any chance the loop below the intermittent is the wrong size?

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com

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Harry Robinson
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 155
From: Franklin Tennessee
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 10-08-2000 08:00 PM      Profile for Harry Robinson   Email Harry Robinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
John,
I bought a cloth buffing wheel kit that included some compound and three different size wheels. I am polishing the gate trap surface. No luck so far.
How large should the bottom loop be on a Super Simplex? I assume that a larger loop would cause less abrasion, but I often hear of rookey projectionists who make the loop too large and damage the film that way. Would it help if I got some gate lubricant? Xeecote, I think they call it. Or something like that.
My God, the pits of ignorance in my knowledge of this craft are huge.
And by the way, many thanks for your help on this matter. If you ever need to buy a guitar, I'm the one with the answers.

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 10-08-2000 10:09 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Typically it is people making a lower loop too large that causes scratches.

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 10-09-2000 06:01 AM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Proper lubrication of film does help prevent abrasion. Kodak specifies "edge waxing" as part of the processing for print film, as this serves to reduce abrasion along the edges and perforation area of the print. But your image-area scratching is abnormal, and shows that something is contacting the image area of the film. I agree with Brad that your loop size is a suspect. The projector manual should have a threading diagram, or a description of the proper threading procedure. Another guide to proper loop size is that the distance between the picture aperture and the analog sound pickup should be 21 frames for exact sound sync, and 20 frames for sound to be in sync 50 feet from the screen. (Sound takes 1/24 second to travel about 50 feet).

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com

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Dave Cutler
Master Film Handler

Posts: 277
From: Centennial, CO
Registered: Jun 2000


 - posted 10-09-2000 01:04 PM      Profile for Dave Cutler   Email Dave Cutler   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I have worked at a few locations that had trouble with a base scratch in the center of the film on Simplex's. Turned out it was in the gate assembly.

Check both the two screws that hold on the gate shoes, as well as the screw that holds on the intermittent shoes. If any of them are sticking out too far they can obviously damage the film. All you have to do is file them down a bit, and the problem should go away. Make sure you don't file the gate shoe screws so far that you can't get a screw driver seated properly though.

Good luck! Hope this works for you.

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 10-09-2000 01:39 PM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Dave is correct. Those screws can be a problem, especially if they are not the originals, or have gotten nicked by misapplication of a screwdriver.

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com

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Leo Enticknap
Film God

Posts: 7474
From: Loma Linda, CA
Registered: Jul 2000


 - posted 10-09-2000 03:20 PM      Profile for Leo Enticknap   Author's Homepage   Email Leo Enticknap   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
In reply to Harry Robinson's query 'how large should the bottom loop be?', if you lace up an Academy leader with the start frame or a number in the gate, then adjust the bottom loop size so that a diamond is against the analogue soundhead (i.e. in sync), that will ensure that the loop is the right size, regardless of what type of projector is being used.

This should be a routine part of lacing up any projector. I don't know what anyone else feels but I can see the effect of a film being laced 2-3 perfs out on even a moderate close-up, and I find it annoying as hell.

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Harry Robinson
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 155
From: Franklin Tennessee
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 10-09-2000 07:09 PM      Profile for Harry Robinson   Email Harry Robinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
First of all, I want to thank you guys for your responses to my problem. This is the greatest site.
OK, I filed down the screws, buffed the gate door, shortened my loops, and nothing.
So...I re-threaded, ran the projector for about three seconds, shut it down, then marked the film with a felt pen at the top of the gate. I pulled the film out, then looked down the surface from the felt mark to the scuffing on the film.
I then marked the scuff. Then I re-threaded the projector. The scuff was right on top of the sound drum in the RCA 1040. And the scratches started after that. I had missread the film earlier.
The sound drum had been corroded when I got the unit, so I took to a garage and mounted it in a power drill, then scotch brited it till it was smooth...apparently not smooth enough.
I went back in today with the cotton buffing wheel and buffed the drum without removing it from the unit, letting it spin a little for even coverage.
I put a little spin on the flywheel, fired up the projector for three seconds and checked again. The scuff mark was about one third the size as before as were the tiny scratches. I will buff this thing as smooth as I can and see if I can completely eliminate the problem.
Any thoughts?

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 10-09-2000 07:41 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Also check the bearings and the flywheel. It maybe dragging and that is causing the abrasion
Some RCA flywheels are hollow with a second flywheel inside that is damped to the outer one with a fluid so be very carefull that it doesn't get bumped or dropped as flutter usually results

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Richard Hamilton
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1341
From: Evansville, Indiana
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 10-09-2000 07:44 PM      Profile for Richard Hamilton   Email Richard Hamilton   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
RCA soundheads make GREAT boat anchors!!! It sounds like the problem with the sound drum could be that it isn't spinning freely. If you already Scotch Brited it, it shouldn't be causing a scratch like you described.

Rick

"I put a little spin on the flywheel, fired up the projector for three seconds and checked again." Why would you spin the flywheel first??

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Harry Robinson
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 155
From: Franklin Tennessee
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 10-12-2000 10:27 PM      Profile for Harry Robinson   Email Harry Robinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
You know, I think you guys must share stories about the newbies when we're not around. And sometimes we deserve it.
In this case, I'm pretty sure John Eichkof has bailed me out of my problem. On his advise I removed the drum shaft and the bearings. I had been told to apply Lubriplate to the shielded bearings...wrong.
I cleaned them out after removing the shields, applied a little 30W detergent-free oil to them and re-installed them.
I went to an industrial supply store and got two sheets of micro-finish film and a bottle of Finish-It compound. I went to my friend's auto shop, mounted the shaft in an air-powered drill and polished the drum for 30 minutes. I can now see my face in it. You can still see very vague imperfections in the surface of the drum but it feels "smooth as a baby's behind," to quote John.
I put the whole thing together and fired it up. There are still drag marks on the base side, but they are very faint, and I think when I put some real film in the projector with adequate leader for it to come up to speed, my problem will be solved.
The real rookie part for me was that I thought that there shouldn't be any wear on the film even as it was coming up to speed. And in this community of thought it is a given that there will be some. After all, why do they have leader in the first place?
Any additional thought would be appreciated. I want my projector to be as gentle to film as possible so my growing collection will be around for my son and his children long after I am gone.

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