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Author Topic: Oven Cleaner & Winterizing Dave Bird Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 777 From: Perth, Ontario, Canada Registered: Jun 2000 posted 11-13-2000 06:32 PM                        As discussed a couple weeks back, I'm going to clean my XL's with oven cleaner as you guys have suggested. Going to take the sprockets out and clean in varsol (paint thinner???). Do you generally just follow the instructions as if it were an oven? Next question - winterizing. My machines were drive-in service, and each winter the gates and sound drums were vaselined to prevent corrosion. Now, I'm not running these things much. Should I "winterize" them? How about heat? Should I heat the workshop or are they OK cold (freezing, of course, just outside my igloo here in Canada! ) PS- Tim, where will you get your grits? Congrats!  |  IP: Logged Randy Stankey Film God Posts: 6539 From: Erie, Pennsylvania Registered: Jun 99 posted 11-13-2000 11:43 PM                     As far as winterizing, I'd say that HUMIDITY is the main issue. That's what causes rust where I'm from. You can use "cosmoline" if you want to but you'd have to weigh the difference between risking the rust and the "P.I.A.-factor". (How much time are you willing to spend getting that S*** off before you run it? As for the cold? As long as you let it get up to room temperature before you run it again I don't imagine a problem. The oil might sludge up on you but you can always drain it. (Just fill it up again before running it!!! ) Depending on how much you plan on running it, I'd say just put an old sheet over it to keep dust and debris out.  |  IP: Logged Jeff Stricker Master Film Handler Posts: 481 From: Calumet, Mi USA Registered: Nov 1999 posted 11-14-2000 05:08 AM                     In a previous life I worked on issues of electronic performance when assemblies had water condense on them. Regarding your projectors, when you bring a cold unit into a warm room watch for moisture condensation on the cold surfaces. Wipe consdensation on unpainted steel parts that may rust.  |  IP: Logged Ken Layton Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1452 From: Olympia, Wash. USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 11-14-2000 08:48 AM                     Projectors have alot of iron and steel parts manufactured to very close tolerances. These parts can rust very easily. It's a good idea to have your machine stored with a heater on nearby. Even in my drivein (the Skyline) we keep the heat set to 60 degrees in the booth during the winter. I also wipe the sprockets and gate parts with a coating of projector oil and leave the operating side doors wide open on the projector and soundhead.  |  IP: Logged Tim Reed Better Projection Pays Posts: 5246 From: Northampton, PA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 11-14-2000 10:35 PM                       quote: PS- Tim, where will you get your grits? Congrats! Thanks, Dave! That's okay, they have Cracker Barrel restaurants up here. ------------------ Better Projection Pays!  |  IP: Logged Dave Bird Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 777 From: Perth, Ontario, Canada Registered: Jun 2000 posted 11-15-2000 05:59 AM                        (Tim) Whew! Do any of you have a suggestion for those iron and steel parts that have pitted a bit. In my case, really it's just the changeover and fire dowsers. Or is that just par for the course in that high-heat area? Thanks.  |  IP: Logged

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