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Topic: HELP needed Peerless Magnarc

Paul Cunningham
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 146
From: Melbourne, Australia
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 11-26-2000 06:32 AM

I am trying to fix a Magnarc (Type F), the negative feed manual control knob has broken off at the insulator section.

I have a spare one which I can put in but am having trouble removing the tapered pins as I do not have an appropriate tool.

Is there an 'easy' way to do this, maybe disconnect it from the clutch end? or should I persevere with my hammer and old nail? I am worried about hitting it too hard and breaking something else.

And what actually does that large magnet do?

Any help greatly appreciated.

Paul

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99

posted 11-27-2000 07:13 AM

You should use a V block to remove the taper pins or a C-Clamp to slowly pressure in a small nail to force the pin out.
The large magnet is to stabilize the arc and keep the core gasses concetrated in the crater or the positive carbon.

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Bill Purdy
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 139
From: Seattle, WA
Registered: Oct 1999

posted 11-27-2000 09:33 AM

Sears used to sell "pin punches" which are made for the job. While these are available at most any machine tool supply house, I mention Sears because they will probably sell them singly. If you are going to do much work on these old jewels you might even want to buy the set. They really aren't very expensive and will last you a whole lot longer than the nails. I just looked at a recent Enco brochure and found an import set for $5.95.

Gordon's comment re the "Vee" block is well advised unless that pin comes out easily. You can substitute anything that has a little weight and with a hole for the pin to go into. Someone else to hold it is almost mandatory.

------------------
Bill Purdy
Component Engineering

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Paul Cunningham
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 146
From: Melbourne, Australia
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 11-27-2000 07:38 PM

Hello thanks for the help.
That C clamp idea was excellent and I am kicking myself for not thinking of it.
I ended up taking the whole negative assembly out which made things heaps easier.
Bye Paul

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Scott Norwood
Film God

Posts: 8146
From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas)
Registered: Jun 99

posted 11-28-2000 07:10 AM

Aren't these things great? Peerless lamps definitely get my prize for "best-looking piece of cinema equipment." They just don't make stuff that looks this good anymore.

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99

posted 11-28-2000 08:24 AM

In the early 60's zies sold a verticle XenoBlock conversion useing the Xensol III block that fitted the peerless and it included a new glas for the Top with ZiesXenoblock etched in it
It was supplied in both the metal framed and the edgeless one
Strong did much the same when they brought out the X16

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Frank Prete
Film Handler

Posts: 55
From: Victoria, Australia
Registered: Sep 2000

posted 11-29-2000 04:06 PM

Hey Paul,

How are they going?

I agree that the top glass thing is pretty cool, but the rest of the body is not so pleasing...couldn't they have used some other colour?

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Bill Enos
Film God

Posts: 2081
From: Richmond, Virginia, USA
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 11-29-2000 04:30 PM

A movie memorabilia collector who visited the booth a while back offered $50. each for the 2 cut glass Peerless logos if I would remove them & get them to him. Tempting I guess, but he was shown the door. If they're ever missing we'll know where to look though.

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Paul Cunningham
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 146
From: Melbourne, Australia
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 11-30-2000 06:49 PM

Frank

Looks like you missed out on the $50 each for the 2 glass bits.

One is fully operational but I haven't wired it in yet, the other is missing a couple of vital parts, I may need to come and visit you for spares if no one else has shown interest in them.

Paul

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Peter Dougherty
Film Handler

Posts: 36
From: Maspeth, NY, USA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 12-01-2000 08:36 PM

Looks like that glass was from a Type G, not F (F's, if I recall, had their glasses in a complete frame). I ran a beloved pair of Gs for about 6 years and still miss 'em.

If I can ever get one of those glasses it will occupy a place of honour in my home theare.

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Scott Norwood
Film God

Posts: 8146
From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas)
Registered: Jun 99

posted 12-01-2000 08:46 PM

Good catch--the glass in the picture is on a type "J" magnarc. I took the picture over the summer at the Cape Cinema (see the picture warehouse...I sent Brad some more pics of the place that he will hopefully put up soon.)

This was a surprisingly difficult thing to photograph. I think the exposure was about 1/15th or 1/30th of a second at f/3.5 on 200asa film. (Yes, John, it was Kodak film!)

I wouldn't mind having such a piece of glass, either, but I'm not about to spend $50 on same.

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 12-04-2000 07:51 AM

Scott:

Thanks for using Kodak film . The higher speed stocks would allow a shorter exposure time for great "grab shots" like this in older theatres. I've had great luck with MAX 800 (telephoto shots at figure skating shows) and MAX 400 for my "regular" photos:
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/consumer/film/index.shtml

My figure-skating fan daughter posted many of the photos we took at recent ice shows on her website:
http://www.geocities.com/colosseum/lodge/1557/

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com

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