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Author
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Topic: Xenon Lamps-How Much Can They Be Cut Back
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John Walsh
Film God
Posts: 2490
From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Registered: Oct 1999
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posted 01-18-2001 11:07 AM
The Xetron lamps (consoles) we have are designed in a "generic" manner, ie: you can put a 3000 or 4000 watt bulb in them by changing adaptors. (And we put in a 4000 watt power supply.) The adaptors are made of brass- the negative one is screwed in the socket, and the positive is held (set screws) to the end of the bulb. The power supply will ignite either (of course, if there's a 3000 watt bulb installed, it has to be turned down.)I would strongly encourage the purchase of such a setup. I'm sure other manufacturers offer the ablity to change bulbs. It will be more expensive to buy a 4000 watt lamp/ power supply, but it will allow some options. If you think the light is too low after you try 3000w, you can go to 4000w. If you ever run 3D, (unlikely, but a 3D film festival is always fun) the additional light will be handy to have. Maybe, 70mm will make a come-back, etc.. There is a price difference between bulbs. I haven't checked recently, but I thought a 3000w bulb costs (something like) $300 (rated for 1200hrs) and a 4000w costs $500 (rated for 800hrs.) Whatever it is, I think there is a big price difference. But, if the screen is dark, you need whatever is required. (What size screen and throw? Is it a matte-white screen, or a gain?) Wheather you can get away with "overdriving" a 3000w, or reducing a 4000w (to see which is cost-effective in the long run) is hard to say, because I don't know of anyone doing that (hence, no data.) I would feel uncomfortable powering a 3000w bulb over 3000w- ie: I would not go over 100% of it's rated power. On the other hand, (Randy is right) I would not reduce a 4000 bulb to less than 80% (3200w.) To find apx. wattage required for screen size: height of screen (squared) times 12 - or: If your screen is 32ft x 17ft. (I use flat, as it is 'worst-case') that would be: 17 (squared) * 12 = 3468watts (a 3000w bulb can't be turned up high enough to provided the required light.) Also, you will need to check the exhaust system. Arc lamps liked a "large amount at low velocity" air flow, but xenons like a higher velocity (350-500cfm, if I remember.) I believe air flow plays a very important part in lamp life, enough so that replacing roof fans and ducts could pay for itself (in longer-lasting bulb life) several times over in just a few years.
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Aaron Sisemore
Flaming Ribs beat Reeses Peanut Butter Cups any day!
Posts: 3061
From: Rockwall TX USA
Registered: Sep 1999
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posted 01-18-2001 11:53 AM
I am a big fan of Strong lamphouses and consoles, although the newer Xetrons and Christies are good bets too. Seeing you are replacing just the old Magnarcs, assuming you are keeping the original pedestals, you would need a standard lamphouse like the Strong Super-80 (3000-7000w capacity, with the corresponding power supply). As for bulbs: the larger the bulb, the shorter the warranty life, especially if running horizontally. DO NOT run the bulbs at too low a current (below 80-85% of max rating), as all it will do is give you poor performance and shortened lamp life. As for brands of bulbs: Osram and Christie (Ushio) bulbs are excellent performers in any wattage. *AVOID* the following brands: ORC/EG&G/PerkinElmer (some of the OEM 'brands' of bulbs (Like the 'CFS' bulbs) were made by ORC) 'Cine-Lite' (and any other Chinese-made bulbs) Yumex (Though made by former Ushio people, the quality control is pretty spotty) as always, YMMV... Aaron
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John Pytlak
Film God
Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 01-18-2001 01:00 PM
Always stay within the current range recommended by the lamp manufacturer. Exceeding the maximum rated current will greatly increase the risk of catastrophic explosion. But running a lamp below it's minimum recommended current often produces lamp blackening and electrode wear, as the lamp is not running hot enough to keep the tungsten from depositing on the lamp envelope.Obviously, a larger lamp will use more electricity. And as noted by others, larger lamps cost more, and have a shorter warrantee. Always choose a lamp that will allow you to meet the SMPTE standard screen luminance of 16 footlamberts throughout its life (light output decreases as a lamp ages). It's usually easier to deal with an abundance of light, rather than have a lamp that is too small to meet SMPTE standards. You can trade the extra light for improved illumination uniformity, or perhaps even consider a 3-blade shutter to reduce flicker perception. Note that the SMPTE standard allows theatres to be as bright as 22 footlamberts, which IMHO makes most (not all) movies look better. In other words, if you can afford the slightly greater operational cost, err on the side of having a larger lamp than needed. ------------------ John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging Eastman Kodak Company Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419 Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243 E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!
Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999
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posted 01-19-2001 10:07 PM
Christie/Ushio lamps have a card with each lamp that list that particular lamp's range and I have found it to be good for their lamps, including what the lamp was measured at the factory (their numbers always matched mine).Christie lamps also have an incredible range...eg their CXL-20R has a range of 50-85ADC and is rated for 2400Hours. I have run their lamps anywhere within this range and they last typically 2X-4X their rated hours. Steve ------------------ "Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"
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