I am running 6000 foot reels. Is this not appropriate? Also, could I have over-oiled the motor? I filled the oil tubes until they spilled over. In fact I've been drenching this thing and the Super Simplex in oil because of all the warnings from techs about tearing up gears. Am I doing thr right thing?

I'm going to an equipment supply place tomorrw. Should I look into getting an SH1000? I have beaten myself to death over this 1040 for over a year. I've rebuilt it and still there is excessive wow in the audio signal. Not to mention the fact that it's a pain in the ass to keep lubricated. Some one please give me some feedback on this today, so I can get a perspective on the subject before I go and spend more money.
Thanks as always.

 |  IP: Logged

Try Gordon's approach, but instead of pulling the projector head, just pull the main drive shaft and the gear in the projector. (same difference, just get the load of the projector head off the motor.)

Also make sure your gearbox is still running smoothly. with no binding.

I also had the premier of my screening room last week. It got very late and one of my friends fell asleep one reel at a time is not the ideal way to show a film, especially when it is 9 reels long!

another $0.02

Josh

 |  IP: Logged

I couldn't get a good picture of the nameplate but it says, "Temperature rise: 50 deg. C."
If this means what I think it does, then the motor can run at 122 deg. F. ABOVE room temperature. If your room is 70 deg. then that means this baby can get up to 192 deg. !!!

 |  IP: Logged

You can use a digital meat thermometer to measure the temperature increase of the motor casing --- Taylor makes one with a range of 58 to 302 F. for less than 20 dollars:
http://www.cooking.com/products/shprodde.asp?SKU=102276

The motors sure do run hot to the touch. If I run a whole feature with maybe 2 to 5 minute stops between reels it's un-comfortable to touch, but not hot enough to damage it in my opinion. When I had things apart I also took the motor apart. It was full of old oil and dust that was blocking up the air paths. Also there were cardboard (the electronics industry calls it fishpaper) baffles to direct the airflow through the fan. These baffles were pretty well warped out of shape and also full of crud. They were constricting the airflow. I just took them out until I get the time to replace them with something better and stiffer like some 1/32" PC board fiberglass sheets. I haven't replaced them yet and things aren't to bad. I think you'll find the air path in your motor is at least partially plugged up from years of use. If you take it apart be carefull, the wires are thin and probably fragile by now. If you don't want to take it apart, you might consider taking it to a motor shop and let them wash it out.

It's in about 80% - 90% working condition. Some of the wires have been cut, the solar cell needs replacing and it's mondo greasy. Still I can turn it over by hand and it'll do 2-3 revs before it stops. Once I get it de-gunked and properly lubed up it oughtta' be even better. That's sitting underneath a Century C projector head that I got from the same place. It', too, is in 90% working order. Just seems to need a lens and a set of plates. The only thing I can find wrong with it is that the shutter timing knob is stuck. (Probably from all the old, hard grease?) I have the both of them just setting together right now. I have put film in them and turned it over by hand. All seems to be in working order. I plan to strip these babies down, clean em' up and put em' back together. I'm not in any hurry to get this done so I figure I'll do my homework on them before I jump in with both feet.

I have the afformentioned splicers. I'll soon be sending two of them to new homes and acquiring at least one more.

I have a stack of boxes with various things in them:
DTS drives that were taken out of theatres when the upgrade kits were installed. I use them to replace other ones as they fail. Doing that is not always a good long-term solution, though. I just use them to get the unit up and running until I can get a set of the new ones ordered. These drives usually fail again in a few months. It's good enough to get the theatre running again on a Friday night, though.

I have a box full of Christie belts... 'Nuff said...

I have another box of JBL H.F. driver domes. I had a rash of them getting blown out and there were a few left over from that.

There are a couple other boxes full of parts for various things that I dig through when I get a call. I take what I think I'll need when something breaks. It saves me from having to order things a lot of the time.

Lastly, I have an old Simplex intermittent that I can't remember where I got it. I do remember that I was hoping to clean it up and use it as an emergency spare. It's pretty messed up. I know it's been taken apart so It's probably way out of alignment. I think it's only use is as a "demonstrator" for when people mess one up, I can say, "See what's in here! That's why they are so damned expensive!"

This isn't half the junk I COULD have! I know where there are about 4 or 5 more SH-1000's... a couple of E-7's... a whole pile of random Simplex parts and even a Bauer 16mm projector (A U-3, if I remember right.) I'm always meaning to post all this junk on the "Wanted" forum but I never have time to catalogue it all.

(Just hadda say that....)

Harry, next time you tear down the 1040 motor, install some sealed bearings in it. That'll clear the oiling problems...Better still, if you can find an old 1050, rebuild the motor and install that motor with the flywheel on your sound head. You should be able to find the 1050's dirt cheap these days.

It'll be easier on the projector during start-up. That ballast resistor that is in the 1040 motor (which is in series with the start winding) is a joke! I think the 1050 has the resistor also. That makes the 1050 even better. Nice easy starts..