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Author
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Topic: Crystals on my platter surface!
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John Pytlak
Film God
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Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 08-28-2001 01:23 PM
Mitchell Cope asked: "I have one reel of old (1973) film stock that's been sitting on this particular platter for the last couple of weeks. Could that cause oxidation?"If the oxidation is only on the area of the platter that was directly under the old film, it may be that moisture in the film was trapped, and affected the platter. I doubt any film-related effect would happen in only "the last couple weeks", unless the old acetate film had severe "vinegar syndrome" releasing free acetic acid. Do you smell any pungent/acid vapors from the old film roll? What is the relative humidity in your projection room? --- excess moisture will cause rust and corrosion. ------------------ John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging Eastman Kodak Company Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419 Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243 E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion
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Will Kutler
Phenomenal Film Handler
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Posts: 1506
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 08-29-2001 06:42 PM
OK every bloody!Let us talk about aluminum and corrosion. First, aluminum DOES NOT rust! Rust refers to ferrous (iron) alloys. Aluminum corrodes. The types of corrosion that effect aluminum and its alloys are: a) Direct Surface Attack is the most common and results from the direct reaction of the metal surface with oxygen in the air and may be accelerated by salt spray or salt-bearing air, industrial gasses etc. Notice what a fingerprint does to a platter surface? b) Dissimilar Metals Corrosion occurs when two dissimilar metals are in contact and are connected by an electrolyte. c) Pitting is usually a localized breakdown of protection and can result from mechanical working, faulty heat treatment, an inclusion or localized contamination that breaks down surface protection. d) Intergranular Corrosion is caused by improper heat treatment and grain boundries in the metal. Aluminum alloys 2024 and 7075 are highly vulnerable. I believe that platter decks are 2024. Exfoliation is an advanced form of this type of corrosion. The metal can blister and deliminate. If you look at a cross section of aluminum with intergranular corrosion the metal will be delamanated and resemble pages of a book. e and f) Stress and Fatigue--self explanitory-- g) Fretting) is a rubbing contact that can destroy a protective coating and may remove virgin metal from the surface which could prevent the formation of a protective oxide. This is an abrasive action. also called False Brinnelling in relation to the hardness test. Maybe the film rubbing on the platter deck could have a similar result? So how do we protect aluminum? a) Anodizing. A good example of this will be the aluminum parts of the Christie P35-GPS that have a hard black coating. b) Cladding. Pure aluminum is very corrosion resistant but has no structural strength. This is why we have alloys. Anyhow, cladding is when a paper thin layer of pure aluminum is hot rolled onto the surface of the alloy. Platter decks are not clad. c) Painting and related surface treatments. Do not clean platter decks with alcohol!!! I have never experienced problems with 409. Manufacturers recommend cleaning platter decks with light soap and water solution followed by a rince with clean water and a thourough drying! Hope this lesson helps!
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Dave Macaulay
Film God
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Posts: 2321
From: Toronto, Canada
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 08-31-2001 11:32 PM
Anodizing is pretty simple. I did it quite a bit 20+ years ago, and the following is from memory and a bit uncertain... You need a vat of battery acid, a non-reactive cathode (I used a lump of lead) and a DC power supply such as a battery charger. Attach a wire to the (very clean! , wash with soap, dip in muriatic acid, and rinse thoroughly) aluminum part and the + power, and the - to the cathode. Both go in the acid and must not touch. Run initially 1 Amp per square inch of aluminum surface max - the current will drop as the surface becomes less conductive - for about 20 minutes. Remove, rinse in clear water, and dye immediately. This produces a porous surface. If you want a colour you dunk it in a dye bath for a while. Regular fabric dye like RIT is fine, let it get a shade darker than you want as some will leach out in the sealing. Then, coloured or not, you boil it in plain water for 20 minutes, somehow this seals the surface. Voila. Inattention to the initial cleaning or the rinses and even any long wait between steps will give a blotchy colour job. The colour density and evenness are never as good as fancy factory anodizing jobs, but look OK. Battery acid doesn't immediately destroy stuff but it doesn't take very long. It's not like the movies where smoke comes off your skin as it dissolves, actually it just generates a mild burning sensation after a few seconds. If you rinse it off within a minute or two you're fine. Eyes are different, you should wear goggles near the stuff. It will dissolve cloth - not instantly but a drop of acid on your shirt will turn into a hole overnight. Wear expendable clothes, they will most certainly have some new holes.
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