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This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2
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Author
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Topic: Xenon Power Supply Help
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Pat Moore
Master Film Handler
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Posts: 363
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 12-03-2001 08:41 PM
Nic;That Switcher should supply lots of open circuit voltage, at least 120VDC or more. Might be something in the lamphouse's auto-strike circuit that's not right. Did that series of ORC lamps have an adjustable strike point, or was it fixed? Sorry, don't remember... You should be able to put a volt meter across the DC output and see what the open circuit voltage is. Careful, though -- if the auto-strike decides to work it might zing your meter but good. The Switcher will work with standard AC Igniters without a problem -- it just has a naturally high open circuit voltage characteristic. Pat
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Nic Margherio
Film Handler
Posts: 91
From: St. Louis MO, USA
Registered: Dec 1999
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posted 12-03-2001 11:45 PM
Pat,I'm not certain that I am making the right connections between the igition switch and the swithcher. Currently I am using terminals 6 and 7 on the switcher (it is a 1994 vintage hard-wire) to close the internal contactor in the switcher. None of the other terminals are being used. Will the switcher acuate the igniter (generate adequate VDC) just by closing the contactor? The igniter does have an adjustable strike gap. I am a little leery of putting my meter across the DC leads for reasons that you have already stated. Unfortuantely the installed volt meter on the lamphouse has not worked for some time. I'm thinking I will switch that meter out with a known good one to see if any no-load voltage is being supplied. Thanks for your help. By the way, Gordon, what is a zener diode anyway?
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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!
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Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999
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posted 12-04-2001 06:29 AM
6 & 7? wow are you lucky!Strong sends voltage up to the lamphouse on 2 & 4 (120VAC) and expects it back on 5 & 6 to close the contactor. Terminals 7 & 8 are strictly 208VAC and are there to drive an upper blower on such lamphouses as the Ultra-80 Terminal 3 is for automation switch legs...goes out to the auto on 3 and comes back on 6. Steve ------------------ "Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"
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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man
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Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 12-04-2001 12:23 PM
In addition what Pat said and Gordon suggested, be very careful about inadvertantly leaving an electronic digital voltmeter connected to the test points in the back of the lamphouse. Should ignition occur, you might ruin the voltmeter, especially if the RF suppression capacitors are not up to par.This happened to me once, and it did so much damage to the voltmeter that it was rendered beyond repair. The manufacturer of the digital voltmeter sent me a letter asking me what I did to it. I told them, and they sent me a replacement meter free with a letter saying, "please don't do it again!"
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John Pytlak
Film God
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Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 12-04-2001 12:45 PM
Paul said: "This happened to me once, and it did so much damage to the voltmeter that it was rendered beyond repair. The manufacturer of the digital voltmeter sent me a letter asking me what I did to it. I told them, and they sent me a replacement meter free with a letter saying, "please don't do it again!" Kudos to that voltmeter manufacturer. Voltmeters done right! ![](http://www.film-tech.com/ubb/smile.gif) ------------------ John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7525A Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243 E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion
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Pat Moore
Master Film Handler
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Posts: 363
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 12-05-2001 09:59 AM
Nic;I don't think that Switcher has a terminal #7 -- as Steve says, 115VAC to terninals 5 & 6 will turn on the contactor and the supply, regardless of where the AC comes from. You'll get all the open circuit DC voltage then as well. If the lamphouse is not trying to auto-strike, then you should be able to read the open circuit voltage and not worry about your meter. Just don't leave it hooked up longer than necessary. I'm an electronics dummy, but... a zener diode blocks voltage up to a certain level and then passes anything over that threshhold. A 50V zener will block 50V. If you've got 60V hooked up to it, it blocks 50V and you should only get around 10V out of the circuit. The zener diode in the auto-strike circuit is generally used to control at what point a relay is activated to turn the igniter "on". The ORC Lamphouse should have some circuit like that to provide AC Power to the igniter. Take a look at the rela's contacts, see if they are badly pitted. You might look at the socket and relay pins for corrosion. If things are wroking right, you should actually see the relay pull in at some level of open circuit voltage -- like I say, the Switcher will provide plenty. If the relay doesn't pull in, suspect the relay or the little zener diode in that circuit being open. Pat
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Justin West
Master Film Handler
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Posts: 271
From: Peoria, IL, USA
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 12-04-2004 12:31 AM
I, too, have a problem with a Strong Switching Power Supply:
In fact, I have two Strong Switching power supplies. When I bought them, I was under the impression that the unit marked "A" below would be usable with single-phase service. Unit "B" is a three-phase, 4-7 kW model. Both models are obsolete.
A) Model 6284001, Ser. 19467 Mfd. 8/98 Input: VAC 100-130, Amps 30 Output: VDC 18-28, Amps 25-70
B) Model 6284001, ser. # 4915, mfd. 12/93 Input VAC 208/240, Amps 40 Max. Output VDC 30-50 Amps 100-170
I opened up unit "A's" cover panels to do some light vacuuming and check on connections, etc. and I found a note that was placed in there from a previous owner. It said, "Burned Resistor(s) main board at power input circuit." I looked around and I found some light soot covered resistors and a diode near the DC output cables. None of the resistors or the diode in question looked burned, popped, or broken, and the soot was wiping up fairly easily with a rub of my finger. [The resistors and diode in this area are R98, R99, R117, R118, and D44.] Maybe it was fixed...I don't know that yet. I tried running 120VAC to the power supply input terminals and jumpered the "lamphouse control circuit terminals" #3 and #6, then flipped the circuit breaker switch to see if any DC current would come out the output terminals and...nothing. I have no lamphouse connected (and none to connect to this at this time) so does anyone have any advice on what I should jumper to get a reading? Maybe 2, 4 and 5, 6?
I also have 2nd part to this question: I spoke with the Tech Service Rep at Strong and he was very supportive and concerned but he was stymied by the fact that the model or "type" numbers were the same and that they and their serial numbers matched up as both being 3-phase, models to power 4-7kW xenon bulbs...but the input VAC and output DC Amps were definitely lower on the data plate from Unit "A." The way I read Unit "A's" info, it makes it sound like it takes your standard 120 volts and puts out maybe 2kW? Am I offbase here? Why the discrepancy? Has anyone else experienced this? Strong will no longer service either of these units. Thanks for any advice.
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