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This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2
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Author
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Topic: PRO-35 leaking oil on inside?
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Tim Reed
Better Projection Pays
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Posts: 5246
From: Northampton, PA
Registered: Sep 1999
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posted 10-29-2006 04:36 PM
quote: Mark Gulbrandsen Be sure to use a bit of silicon grease on the new "O" rings when you re-assemble the machine.
Please elaborate, Mark. I would think you'd want every surface absolutely dry.
I have some Pro-35s in one of the theatres I'm servicing. I will have to do some seal replacements very soon in one machine. (My only problem is, I can't really tell where the leak is at the moment! )
By the way, what is the proper order to disassemble this machine? Intermittent first, shutter shaft, vertical shaft? What are some of your tips/tricks for proper realignment of everything on reassembly? For example, on a Century, I always leave the vertical shaft bearing retainer screws slightly loose. I very carefully tighten the screws with the motor running, so the shaft "aligns" itself. Then I stop the motor, put some muscle behind those screws, install the intermittent and shutter shaft.
What are some of your Pro-35 methods?
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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster
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Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 10-30-2006 07:39 AM
Don-Tim,
This is really a shop job, not sometimg I reccomend doing in the field.... if it all runs well when you're done you're lucky or you can get into some deep do-do if you make a mistake and then you have to slap your customer with a whooping labor bill and he'll be unhappy! We keep an R-A mechanism on the shelf without any other parts mounted to it so the job in the field can be done in a couple of hours. Then that one gets rebuilt in the shop and the customer charged for T&M for his unit. We guarantee that rebuilt R/A mechanism for a year and it has been previously run in and leak tested in the shop and is ready to go.
Either way... Be sure to get some O-Ring lube and coat the O-Rings with it before re-assembly. It is available at most bearing supply houses. Otherwise you scuff the O-rings when you re-insert the bearing cap and you will still have a leak.
To disassemble.... 1. Movement, 2. Sprocket and shutter shafts, 3. all the other outer mounted crap and framing mechanism, etc. can now be removed for cleaning, seal and O-ring replacement... inspect the C/O solonoid mounting plate for cracks at the bend point!!! And lastly the vert. shaft. Screw in some long 10/32(I think) screws into the top bearing cap and you can use a bar under these screws to pull it up and out. Lifting the shaft out is difficult and turning the machine over to drop it out by yourself is dangerous for the shaft since its not hardened. But can be done very carefully by two people. One person flips the casting over while the other one hold it in place with a finger and then lets it slowly drop out and guides it to keep it from getting dinged. Also carry a small arbor press and a complete socket set with you to remove and press in the new seals, they can be had at Harbor Freight and other places for just over 20.00. This makes life ALOT easier. You might also want to have a new shutter bearing outer end cap with. The seal is a mother to get out of the original one piece old style cap, machining it out on a lathe is the easiest way to remove it! The new cap is two piece allowing the seal to be pressed right out just like the sprocket shaft caps. Also.... mark the positions of the vert. shaft bearing caps and both shutter shaft caps. These 4 caps are eccentric and marking them will allow replacement of them back in the exact same position and you have the same gear mesh as you did to start with. Not marking these will add considerable time to the repair while you try to adjust each one the same amount to get things meshed correctly.... . KEep in mind that none of the steel parts are hardened like in a Simplex... The Ballantyne is patterened after the Brenkert... all soft metal and non-hardened star and cam! A slight bump when removing the vert. shaft can ding a tooth or two. Treat it all very gently.Inspect all the teeth on the vert. shaft for wear or damage very carefully as well as the teeth on the lower sprocket shaft for wear..the lower gear drives the sound head. I always install a new shutter drive gear irregardless of what the original looks like just because its nylon and a big job to replace later on when it fails. You can also replace the nylon intermittent gear at the same time... that tiny gear drives the whole machine!
Overall Ballantynes are ok if you have operators that know how to run film. If its a bunch of kids then its one of the worst machines you can have. A simple film jam can bend the star radius and then you have an expensive movement rebuild on your hands, even the newer webbed star is just as susceptable to this problem as the original star. I would never install a Pro 35 in any new build today...
quote: Anslem Rayburn A little off topic (a different machine) but how do you know when a Century SA has enough oil in the intermittent? I have been told to fill it to half-full (when looking at the sight-glass) while running, but it seems to spit oil and leak a small amount when I do. I just want to make sure we have enough oil, but not too much.
Anslem,
Half way up the window at stand still... or not running. Any excess oil will just flow out the breather hole on the back of the movement. That breather hole is sometimes a more convenient place to fill them from too. Just depends on the tip of your oiler.
Mark
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