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Topic: Best way to speed up a Christie platter?

Brian Tristam Williams
Film Handler

Posts: 93
From: Johannesburg, South Africa
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 04-27-2002 03:36 AM

When the last show of the day is discovered to be without a sale, the projectionists where I work de-lace the film from the projector, and use a piece of water-hose to block the infrared photo-diode in the center of the Christie platter, to make the feed platter run at maximum speed, so they can go home earlier.

Now, clever as this may seem, isn't there a better, more professional way?

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Darryl Spicer
Film God

Posts: 3250
From: Lexington, KY, USA
Registered: Dec 2000

posted 04-27-2002 10:41 AM

it has been 10 years since I used a christie platter system. What I used to do in those cases where I wanted to fast forward the print thru was to use the Christie make-up table to speed the take-up platter. Just had to make sure that the payout was not rapping the brain and make speed adjustments when needed.

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Michael Rourke
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 159
From: San Luis Obispo, Central Coast of CA
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 04-27-2002 11:19 AM

I do it the way Darryl said, but if you are still on the first reel when you realize the show is empty you can always put on film handling gloves and rewind back onto the ring and do a center drop.

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Adam Wilbert
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 590
From: Bellingham, WA, USA
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 04-27-2002 12:39 PM

Just make sure the prints are secure around the edges or it will fly right off of the platter.

-adam

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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 04-27-2002 12:39 PM

Michael, the center drop method works very well with all platters, except those machines that had a single rod right through the center like the old Eprad.

If I understand your terminology correctly, you can just stop the machine and separate the closest splice and re-start your machine. When the entire reel is expended, shut the machine down. Pick up the entire center ring and its contents and drop it back into the center. However, you will probably have to remove the center ring to make room for re-splicing that reel to remaining reels of the print. If more than two reels are wound on the center ring, I would not recommend doing a center drop.

Doing the "fast forward" thing has a risk of throwing the print. If that happens, damage to the print as well as the equipment will be the end result. All saved time will be lost when you have to pick the print off the floor and re-assemble it.

Been there...and I don't want to be there again...

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99

posted 04-27-2002 02:36 PM

If there isn't too much film on the takeup ring, you can just re-center drop it without using a splicer. (Note this works best with 2 people, but only takes about a minute.) Just stop the projector, put the takeup platter in neutral and cut the platter's power. Unthread the projector and pass it around to your helper (keeping your fingers off of the picture area!). Then hand wind the takeup to get rid of the slack between projector and platter. Unthread what you can on the takeup end, while slowly rotating the takeup platter as needed, then remove the ring and film and wind the film up by rotating the ring. Keep doing this backwards until you have made it to the payout platter, then drop it back in. No splicing needed.

Just make SURE you are NOT touching the picture area of the film, or use gloves when you do this. Although this can be done by one experienced projectionist, make sure you have a helper the first time.

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Michael Rourke
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 159
From: San Luis Obispo, Central Coast of CA
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 04-27-2002 05:49 PM

You absolutely need a helper when the platter tower is on the drive side of the projector.

I have never "rewound" and done the center drop after the first reel has gone through, that's asking for trouble.

I really don't use these tricks on a regular basis, but they come in handy when you have a power outage and you have to save a later run or you accidently thread and start the wrong movie on a shared screen.

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99

posted 04-27-2002 06:33 PM

Actually once you know what you are doing, you don't need a helper, regardless of where the platter is located. That is the reasoning behind my saying to unthread the projector first. The only exception to this is when some bonehead tech sets up the conduit to run straight to the electrical wireway, instead of down and underneath the lower magazine roller. Then you HAVE to have a helper.

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Adam Wilbert
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 590
From: Bellingham, WA, USA
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 04-27-2002 08:49 PM

quote:
The only exception to this is when some bonehead tech sets up the conduit to run straight to the electrical wireway, instead of down and underneath the lower magazine roller.

...or in my case, the flimsy little dts wire, which looks like it'll pull right out if you knock it.

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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 04-27-2002 09:33 PM

Yes, Adam. I know that condition exists, but I didn't put the damn thing in.

In a case like that, I unthread the progector, unthread the take-up portion of the platter, then pull the center take-up ring. I thin just roll the film up on the take-up ring, going under the projector, up, and over. When I get back to the platter tree, I unthread the pay-out side and roll some more film up. When I have the center ring finally on the pay-out platter, I unthread the payout head (some can be a booger) and roll up the remaining, pop the center ring, and drop it in place.

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Michael Gonzalez
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 790
From: Grand Island , NE USA
Registered: Sep 2000

posted 04-27-2002 09:52 PM

If it's the last show of the day. Then the easiest thing to do is to let the movie run until it is time for you to go, than stop it and leave a note for the opener to motor the movie the rest of the way through in the morning.

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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 04-27-2002 10:35 PM

Only thing wrong with depending on the next guy to motor through what has not been motored through is what happens if he/she comes in late? Doors open in 45 minutes, you have an hour to motor through, and manager or projectionist waltzes in 30 minutes before the start of the show. Hmmmmm....Seems to me I have seen that recently.

Now you know why I INSIST that ALL booth work is completed and everything is ready for the next day, except threading up the machines.

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Brian Tristam Williams
Film Handler

Posts: 93
From: Johannesburg, South Africa
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 04-27-2002 10:57 PM

I agree - the next show should be ready to run in the morning. But why everything _except_ threading the projector? Dust? I know that we cover the film reels with dust-cloths. Not sure if they were made by Christie, or an after-market purchase.

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Adam Wilbert
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 590
From: Bellingham, WA, USA
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 04-27-2002 11:43 PM

Paul, i could tell you didn't do it. Your work is tidier. They were the same way at the theater in Arizona and Maine, so i'm assuming its a DTS thing.

I"m pretty sure Christie makes the platter covers, but anyone with a sewing machine, elastic, and a few yards of rip-stop nylon could make them.

Dust is reason for not threading in the evening for the morning shows. Its also hard to get the platter covers on when its threaded!

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Darryl Spicer
Film God

Posts: 3250
From: Lexington, KY, USA
Registered: Dec 2000

posted 04-27-2002 11:48 PM

In my opinion you are failing to do your job professionaly by leaving the film to run thru for the next guy the next day. not a good practice at all. not only does it collect dust out of the air on the print but it also says you didn't clean the heads at all.

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