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Author
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Topic: Super LumeX Re-wire
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Will Kutler
Phenomenal Film Handler
Posts: 1506
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 05-13-2002 09:45 PM
Matt,Nothing is ever wrong with exceeding the origonal manufactures specs--with insulation type or wire guage! Just make sure that if you choose a heavier guage, make sure that it fits into the assembly! I do not know what you have Down-Under, but pay attention to what the origonal wire was (solid strand or braided). If it was origonally braided, then use braided. If it was origonally solid wire, then use solid wire....remember, nothing wrong with using heavier guage! There are several types of insulation that are high heat and chemical resistant...much of this wire can be had from your local hardware or electrical supply store...see what they have in stock. I once had to do an emerengcy rewire of a Christie SLC Console 'cause the Contactor Relay fried, taking much of the wire with it! My local ACE Hardware saved the day! Also, if insulation looks burned, then replace the wire...chances are that the wire is bad even if the multi-meter(VOM) says it is OK.
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Dave Macaulay
Film God
Posts: 2321
From: Toronto, Canada
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 05-14-2002 07:57 AM
There's a fair bit of wire in there! Some of it is actually part of the exterior wiring harness, some is part of the igniter unit, and some is part of the autostrike board.. Most of the wire is 20ga stranded, some is 18ga. If the big lamp-current wires are covered with woven thick soft white "yarn", that's asbestos and should be removed (minimize handling and treat as hazardous waste) and replaced with the new type. A new internal harness from Strong is the best solution. The wires will all be numbered, terminated, and the correct length - these are all good things! This is a good investment at $244.00 list. The external harness is another story, there are only 5 or 6 little wires plus the big'uns so it is pretty easy to make - not really wworth the $268.00 in most cases. Current production uses an 18ga green ground wire instead of the 8ga monster on older ones, so presumably that's all good and proper to use in a replacement. If you use rubber welding cable for any cable inside the l/h you should wrap it with at least electrical tape, and preferably silicon tape, so it won't decay. Some rubber wire is UV resistant but unless you know it is, assume it isn't If you're hell bent on hand rewiring it, the best (only?) 20/18ga wire to use is teflon jacketed. This will not decay in the UV bath, colour will still fade but WTH. It's tricky to strip and can be nicked by sharp metal rather easily but I still recommend it. No matter what wire you use it is going to be a nasty job, I would probably offend most drill sergeants with my swearing if I tried it. Use black ty-raps and stickys!! - white ones are USELESS in there as the UV will kill them in weeks. I can't understand why Strong persists in that particular insanity. You can rewire the autoignite board easily to replace fried wire. Unless you have one of the rectifiers that uses it (if any are still working!) take the potentiometer out and trash it. Watch out for the 150K resistor in the meter circuit, if you forget to install it and push the VOLTS button, the meter will go "ting!" and a bit of smoke will come out of it - the last action it will ever make. Good luck!
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