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Topic: Sealing leaky intermittents?

Michael Rourke
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 159
From: San Luis Obispo, Central Coast of CA
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 07-04-2002 09:58 PM

I have two leaky (Century)intermittents that I have removed from my projectors, aside from the leaking they run just fine. One leaks around the actual housing underneath the oil sight glass, the other right out of the oil drain.

I tried different washers and "o" rings on the one that leaks out the oil drain but nothing helped, should I try thread tape on the screw or could that work it's way into the movement?

Could I just open up the intermittent housing and run a bead of silicone around the drum on the other, or would I be opening up a can of worms?

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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 07-04-2002 11:15 PM

Leave the worms in the can. Just get a new 'o' ring and make sure the surface area is completely clean, and has no damage on it. It might have remnants of other gaskets. I think there might be a small washer that could be missing. Check the parts blow-up to make sure if it calls for one.

Don't over-fill. That should handle the other problem.

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John Walsh
Film God

Posts: 2490
From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Registered: Oct 1999

posted 07-05-2002 01:43 PM

Don't forget to put the felt plug in the oil fill hole on the non-operating side of the intermittent.

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-05-2002 01:46 PM

Actually replacing the sight window gaskets is very easy. All you need is a a very wide blade screw driver, a new window, and two new sight window gaskets, a new housing gasket and new washers and coper washer for the housing set screws. While you're at it a new cam pin should also be installed. Total cost for all these parts is under 20.00!! Fist,disasemble the case halves being careful to leave the two clearance adjustment screws alone. Remove the cam and use a drift punch to force the old cam pin out from behind while supporting the face in a smooth jawed vice. Then tap the new one in from the front with a small brass hammer. Thats done, and takes less than a minuite. Now, with the wide blade screw driver(or one that you made) unscrew the ring that holds the sight glass in place, remove the old window and gasket(s)and throw the old gasket(s) and window in the trash. Be sure the seat for the sight glass is perfectly clean. Lay in a new gasket, then the new window, then another gasket and screw the retaining nut back in place firmly.. Be sure the mating surfaces of both case halves are clean and lay a new gasket in place. Then screw both halves of the housing back together evenly and gradually like a cylinder head. Check for smooth operation by rotating the movement by hand with the flywheel in place. There should be no binding and it should turn absolutely smoothly except for the small resistance you may feel when the pin enters the slot in the star. If all seems ok re-install it, fill with your choice of oil(hopefully LaVezzi Synthetic) and test run the movement for 30 min., then retime the shutter.

This should stop most of the leaking, and the movement should also run alot quieter with the new pin in place. If it still continues to leak then it is probably excessive wear in the bushings. Any leaking out the rear breather hole is common if they are overfilled. Any other leaks usually indicates deteriorating gaskets, or just wear in general.
Mark @ GTS

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