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Topic: Kinoton FP-23 Question

Mitchell Dvoskin
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1869
From: West Milford, NJ, USA
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 08-08-2002 01:24 PM

I have a Kinoton FP-23X projector that leaks oil from the top of the gear box. I believe that the problem is coming from the little metal overflow tube that sticks up to the right of the oil level tube. The projector is level, and as a test, I extended the overflow tube by sticking a plastic straw in the tube and duct taping it on. I am now convinced that the oil is not overflowing, but after running, it still collects on the top around the overflow tube.

Question 1, should the oil filler tube plug be in when the projector is running? I have been told it should.

Question 2, am I barking up the wrong tree as to the source of the leak?

Any suggestions as to a good sealant I could put around the bottom of the overflow tube.

This is a very minor leak and I can live with the problem if I have to, but being that Kinoton oil is expensive, I would rather fix the problem if possible.

Any help would be greatly appriciated.

/Mitchell

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Larry Shaw
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 238
From: Boston, MA, USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 08-09-2002 02:20 PM

Q1 No. And I am referring to the long oil fill/drain hose, its cap should be off except for shipping. The gauge cap stays on during operation to keep out dirt, but the string hole allows a bit of air to pass.

Q2 Maybe. I think the oil may be seeping (not overflowing)out of the top of the vent tube as it splashes about inside. Try getting a inch or two of hose like the drain/fill tube and slipping it over the top of the vent pipe. The straw/duct tape setup won't work because it's too loose and oil is a solvent for(most)duct tape adhesive. The hose will maintain a tight seal without tape, or even a clamp. If you use clear hose, you can see if any splashes come up from the vent.

------------------
Larry Shaw
Boston Light & Sound, Inc.
North American Distributor of Kinoton GmbH
290 North Beacon Street
Boston, MA 02135-1990
Tel: 617-787-3131 x104 Fax: 617-787-4257
E-Mail: larry@blsi.com
Website:http://www.blsi.com/kinoton

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John Anastasio
Master Film Handler

Posts: 325
From: Trenton, NJ, USA
Registered: Sep 2000

posted 08-09-2002 08:11 PM

The problem is that your machine is filled with TRENTON oil, and you're in West Milford. It's simply trying to get out and return to Rich Ducar's basement.

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Mitchell Dvoskin
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1869
From: West Milford, NJ, USA
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 08-12-2002 01:46 PM

Larry,

Thanks for the info. I was running the projector with the oil filler tube plug in. I'll give it a try tonight with the filler plug removed. You are indeed correct about the oil being a solvent for the duct tape adhesive. Turns it to goo.

John,

The only TRENTON oil I am aware of is floating in that river between you and PA.

/Mitchell

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System Notices
Forum Watchdog / Soup Nazi

Posts: 215

Registered: Apr 2004

posted 10-06-2005 05:55 PM

It has been 1151 days since the last post.

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Brian Hogan
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 119
From: Charlotte, North Carolina, USA
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 10-06-2005 05:55 PM

i have a kinoton fp 30 d that is leaking oil, not from the vent tube, but from next to where the drain tube is clamped onto the intermittent. specifically where the motor shaft connects to the intermittent. there is always a drop of oil visible where the motor assembly bolts onto the intermittent. over a month you can notice oil loss in the glass and see oil that has leaked onto a newspaper that we keep under the assembly.

i doubt its coming from the drain hose. a tech suggested it might be a faulty motor seal causing the leak. if so, what can be done to fix it?

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Robert John Jeromson
Master Film Handler

Posts: 264
From: Auckland, New Zealand
Registered: Jul 2004

posted 10-07-2005 04:11 AM

Brian,

I had an FP30-D leak oil in the fashion that you descibe and replacing the seals fixed the problem.

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Stephen Furley
Film God

Posts: 3059
From: Coulsdon, Croydon, England
Registered: May 2002

posted 10-07-2005 05:48 AM

Mitchell, what's a 23X; I've never heard of that one?

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999

posted 10-07-2005 08:28 AM

The standard FP23 was the one with the tripod base and the reels mounted to the rear. The FP23C was designed to mount on a console...much like the PK60D is of today.

The dreaded FP23X had its own pedestal/column of sorts. The motor for the machine lived in the pedestal and the logic for the reel motors was most strange. You press "start motor"...what happens? The reel motors (frictions) turn on first...then after that times out, the projector motor turns on. So, when making changeovers you have to factor that "reel motors tuning on thing" into your timing and thread up...odds are you are going to thread on about "3" or "4" on a footage leader.

I think the FP23T was the last of the FP23 line. It could function as as standalone "table top" projector or it could live atop its own pedestal/column. however, unlike the FP23X, the reels remained on the mechanism (above it actually for both supply and take up). There was even an optional dubber unit available for it (M23T).

The closest equivalent today is the FP10A.

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Mitchell Dvoskin
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1869
From: West Milford, NJ, USA
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 10-07-2005 10:55 AM

The reel motors (frictions) turn on first...then after that times out, the projector motor turns on.

This would prevent the film from snapping on startup do to startup speed variations between the independent takeup motor and the projector motor.

Does anyone know if there is anyway to adjust the timing on the motor delay?

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999

posted 10-07-2005 12:42 PM

quote: Mitchell Dvoskin
This would prevent the film from snapping on startup do to startup speed variations between the independent takeup motor and the projector motor.

Nope, just bad engineering. The film break switch on the FP23 is on that last roller below the lower feed sprocket. Whereas they have you pull it out to allow the projector even start, that is what should have turned on the lower friction. This way, it wouldn't fight you during thread up but once you were finished, pull the film break split roller out and tension up the reel.

Alternately, since the motor lives in the column, just have the friction work mechanically...either way.

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