|  IP: Logged

 |  IP: Logged

 |  IP: Logged

Me, I have Century's and a mixture of Strong/Potts at my big theatre. They all have this problem when there isn't much film on the take up deck. After 30 minutes or so you can usually stop the system with no problems, but at the start you are going to have this problem.

Even though a lot of people here hate it...and some even go as far as to mildly insult those who do it calling them "unprofessional", "poorly trained", people who have "no business in the booth", I thread up differently at Strong equipped theatres....I let the leader touch that no-no void called the floor. I was union trained from my childhood on, and I know this is not desired, but I have never had any dirt issues, and I think the ill effects from this practice (at least in my case)are greatly exaggerated. I am very good at limiting the amount on the floor since I thread from platter to projector to platter and then turn the rewind deck until the start of the programme is at the correct position to actually start the projector minus 1.5 feet of slack that will get used in the lace-up of the projector itself. Then I thread the projector, letting that 1.5 feet or so touch the floor. Then I get the take up platter ready removing the slack.

 |  IP: Logged

Probably your easiest way to solve this is to order the larger 19" center rings. (Note 19" is Christie's standard ring size) Those teeny tiny Strong rings force the platter to really blast away at the speed upon startup. Using the larger rings will make starting easier on the platter (and the film that will wrap on payout) as well as allow you to stop the projector without crashing the platter's elevator and bending your guidance rollers out of alignment. Strong really should make these the default ring, and only ship the smaller rings (that come standard with the platters) for trailer work upon special order.

 |  IP: Logged

Brad: I didn't even think about the larger rings. They just might help the problem of the the platters STOPPING without the trolley slamming against the top of its rails. I have never had any STARTING issues though.

Joe: It helps by lacing as you would at a changeover house...with the appropriate countdown number in the gate so you don't have to motor down after the machine is laced.

You NEVER have the problem with Kinoton as there is no way the platter can go from zero to full speed like the Strong & Christie can. Thats one of the reasons I hate them....

Brad's suggestion seems to be the best low tech remedy... that way the motors won't get up to such highs revs.... but you'll still have to keep a close eye on it. One other solution... do your motors run off inverters or are they 'as supplied'.

The larger rings definitely work, as I have a couple and have tried them. As far as either ring not taking up, that has never been a problem. The startup issue I speak of is the film wrapping around the brain a few times (thus, wrapping on itself causing damage) until it gets up to speed. Using the large rings satisfies both issues.

Also, I say this because you keep posting bad tips, which tends to destroy the whole benefit of these forums. Lacing on the start frame may be convenient for changeover houses, but that is precisely why reel changes look so bad. This is NOT "film done right". All caring operators thread up on the leader and then motor down to the start point, making sure there is ample leader for the protection of the film (not just what is supplied). The CA21 automation even has a cueing feature built in for just this purpose! I know you don't believe in anything I or the good people here tell you, but I assure you that your presentation could be bettered if you would break your bad habits. It's sort of like seeing changeover cues or the CAP code or even seeing FilmGuard in action for the first time. Until you see the distraction or difference for the first time, you honestly don't notice the problem (and as such refuse to believe there is anything wrong with the presentation). Once you see the difference, any less than perfect presentation will from that point on drive you crazy. The film damage and dirt you claim to not have IS there, you just don't see it. I as well as many other people on this forum would see it though. Come visit me sometime and I'll point everything out to you at a less-than-ideal local theater and destroy your typical moviegoing experiences for the rest of your life.

My booth runs nicely. I have been around such things for 20 years, am a qualified tech with install experience and I think I have applied what I have learned...the good and the bad...in such a way that I am quite satisfied with my presentations.

You say "...I say this because you keep posting bad tips, which tends to destroy the whole benefit of these forums."

I say that is another veiled insult. I am not a know-it-all, and have never claimed that any of my procedures for accomplishing something in the booth are the BEST or the ONLY RIGHT WAY as you and others sometimes not so mildy push. I think deciding whether something I say is a "bad tip" or not is up to the reader. The reader can choose to apply the tip or not.

You say: "All caring operators thread up on the leader and then motor down..."

I say there are plenty of "caring operators" that do things completely different from other operators. Not just concerning this subject of booth operation, but concerning every aspect of theatre operation.

You say: "I know you don't believe in anything I or the good people here tell you..."

I say WOW! You claim to know even more than I previously thought! You know things about my emotions and beliefs that I wasn't even aware of myself. Seriously, I have learned a LOT from these forums. But I am lucky enough to have been in and around this business long enough to separte the BS from what I really want....what I think are the "bad tips" from the good ones.

You say "The film damage and dirt you claim to not have IS there, you just don't see it. I as well as many other people on this forum would see it though."

I say one more time that I am no know it all, but I am also no amateur. I NEVER said that my presentation was perfect. I do not need to be tutored in something that is second nature to me. My definition of a perfect screen presentation is not possible with current technologies ANYWHERE. I simply think that my presentation is good the way it is.

Anyhow, thanks for the info on the 19inch rings. I knew they were around but no one I know had ever used any. I might get a couple for trailer changes and such.

The problem Wes is the newbies here who are trying to learn and improve their presentation don't have the experience to be able to differentiate between the good tips and the bad tips. Remember, there are people who read these forums who have less than a year's projection experience, or even less than a month. Most of them have been trained poorly too and are here to try and improve their presentation any way they possibly can, and you are not helping. I am now asking you politely to cease your comments when you know you are posting information that is less than ideal. You should know better. I never said you or anyone has to do things exactly one certain way, for there are multiple acceptable ways of doing things. However if you cannot differentiate proper techniques vs. "good enough", then you will not be welcome here any longer. That's the nicest I will be regarding this. Your further comments are not necessary and again, I have zero respect for anyone who does not do everything in their power to treat their films in the best possible manner.

Of course today's discussion wouldn't even be an issue if Strong / Potts had put a taller elevator into their design. SPECO modified their original LP270 platter design when these complaints came up. Where's the retrofit kit from Strong?