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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Help: Wiring a Simplex pedastal

   
Author Topic: Help: Wiring a Simplex pedastal
Dan Lyons
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 698
From: Seal Beach, CA
Registered: Sep 2002


 - posted 10-15-2002 08:28 PM      Profile for Dan Lyons   Email Dan Lyons   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yesterday I finally got my projector and base. It's a Pro 35 with soundhead, when I start working on it, you can be sure I'll be posting many questions.

Now to my question, How does one wire a Simplex base? I just finished painting it today, mottled gun metal black.
This is the one with the knife switch on back, as can be seen pictured in Rick Shamel's screening room in the warehouse.

The knife switch is just a bit dusty, not all corroded thankfully. How would I clean it properly? sandpaper? On one side of the base, it has a standard 2 socket wall plug installed.
The big question is, after the switch it ready, how do I hook it up? I plan to wire for standard 120v wall current, and how would I wire the outlets in the base from the switch?
(my grandpa is a retired electrician, so i'll have his help on this project)

Thanks
Danny

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Scott Norwood
Film God

Posts: 8146
From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas)
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 10-15-2002 08:40 PM      Profile for Scott Norwood   Author's Homepage   Email Scott Norwood   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The knife switch is for the arc lamp, not for the AC outlet on the side of the base. Normally, the only thing that plugs into the AC outlet is the threading lamp in the projector head (at least this is true with Simplex or Century heads) and maybe a water circulator for machines with water-cooled gates. The outlet in the base is normally connected to its own circuit on the booth breaker panel. There is usually a terminal strip inside the base where connections are made for picture changeover, exciter lamp power, etc.

If you have a carbon arc lamphouse, there should be two leads (probably asbestos-covered) that go from the switch to the back of the lamphouse.

If you aren't using a carbon lamphouse, the knife switch is pretty much useless; you might want to leave it on the base as a decoration, though. Modern xenon lamphouses have the on/off switch located either on the lamphouse itself or on the rectifier.


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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 10-15-2002 11:53 PM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I think Scott covered it very well. Unless you like the "old" look, simply remove it but don't chuck it in the trash. There are a few carbon-arc nuts (me included) out there, so you might want to look for someone who can use it. Maybe Josh can use it for spare parts.


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Dan Lyons
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 698
From: Seal Beach, CA
Registered: Sep 2002


 - posted 10-16-2002 01:16 AM      Profile for Dan Lyons   Email Dan Lyons   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks for the info.
Even though the switch will be of no use to me, I do think i'll keep it on there , unless someone wants to trade some reel arms for it. It does look very nifty.

Danny

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 10-16-2002 12:13 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
remember you will need the powersupply for the changeover since the pro35 uses a maintained voltage rotary solinoid changeover dowser and it is two voltage levels

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Brett Rankin
Film Handler

Posts: 78
From: Sierra Madre, CA
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 10-16-2002 10:12 PM      Profile for Brett Rankin   Email Brett Rankin   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Can the changeover be easily removed, and if so, would it be adviseable to do so?

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