|
|
Author
|
Topic: Pro35 motor wiring help needed
|
Dan Lyons
Jedi Master Film Handler
![](http://www.film-tech.com/ubbmembers/1454f.jpg)
Posts: 698
From: Seal Beach, CA
Registered: Sep 2002
|
posted 10-22-2002 12:12 PM
I've gotten the projector and soundhead cleaned up, time for the motor. It's the standard 115v, 60hz Bodine motor. Right now is has 4 wires coming out of the motor, attatched to something that looks like the relay box in the manual. From there, 2 wires go to a cylinder like capacitor, which on the other side(outside of proj front) are 2 round plugs which look like audio RCA plugs, only the holes are smaller. My question is, how do I hook this up so i can plug it into a standard house wall socket?One more ?. When i turn the motor over by hand, i hear a scraping or rubbing like sound. Neither the pulley nor inching knob are rubbing against anything. Does it need oil? How is a motor oiled? Below are pics of the motor wiring, and then the outside front with the 2 plugs of some sort. Finally, this is what i have so far. Soundhead is cleaned and put back together, projector is "naked" and waiting for the motor. Thanks Danny
| IP: Logged
|
|
|
Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man
![](http://www.film-tech.com/cgi-bin/paulpics.cgi)
Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000
|
posted 10-22-2002 03:12 PM
That sound you here is the starter switch assy. For the most part, it is somewhat normal. DO NOT take the motor apart if you never had one apart. It is very easy to ruin the starter switch if the motor is not being properly dismantled. Take it to a motor repair shop if the noise bothers you.Which motor do you have? Is it a black Bodine? I don't have the wire color code handy, but in the next copule of days, I should have it available. Maybe someone can provide you with that color code sooner than that.
| IP: Logged
|
|
|
|
Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man
![](http://www.film-tech.com/cgi-bin/paulpics.cgi)
Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000
|
posted 10-24-2002 10:36 PM
The wiring on your added picture looks right as far as I can tell. Hit it with 120VAC on the two terminals on the terminal block and I think your motor will run. ![](http://www.film-tech.com/ubb/smile.gif) That thing is coming along nicely in your picture...... But that cue detector will work, but it is obsolete. But you might not have much of an option if you run reel-to-reel. Most standard cue detector/fail-safes won't mechanically fit if you are using 2000 foot take-up magazines without major spacer modifications. And then, you would still have to remove the "can" to have enough clearence because the fire trap rollers are usually part of the lower can. Make sense? I know many will disagree with me, but remove the roller and shaft which is circled in the below picture. This roller is of the old style, and it will cause horizontal emulsion side scratches on the film. I removed all of mine with very little or no adverse effects on the PRO-35 performance. You will hear a little more loop noise, but that's no big deal. I ran my PRO-35's for years without this roller, and never regreted it. It sure beats the hell out of scratching prints.
| IP: Logged
|
|
|
|
Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man
![](http://www.film-tech.com/cgi-bin/paulpics.cgi)
Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000
|
posted 10-25-2002 02:03 AM
Dan, Shaun answered the question. If the motor is good, it'll run. ![](http://www.film-tech.com/ubb/smile.gif) As far as the fail-safe/cue detector is concerned, if you remove that unit you will find that the red circled roller and shaft assy in the picture will fit in the cue detector/fail-safe's place very nicely, and it will be in perfect alignment. For loop size out of the intermittant sprocket, adjust the loop so it will be slightly above the shaft's hole just before pulldown, and slightly below the hole immediately after pulldown. That seemed to work very well for sound sync in a 60-foot (or smaller) projection throw house. Another thing about the roller - the newer ones Ballentyne made are much more grooved in the center to keep the film slap from coming in contact with the center of the roller which caused the horizontal scratches.
| IP: Logged
|
|
|
Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man
![](http://www.film-tech.com/cgi-bin/paulpics.cgi)
Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000
|
posted 10-25-2002 04:08 PM
I have seen many projectors have worse picture jump than the PRO-35 without the roller. Tri-Acetate film was worse about being scratched.Gordon said: quote: If the loop was the right size I never had scratching but if it was too big it sure marked them up.
I cannot dispute Gordon's comment. Unfortunately, the PRO-35 is not very forgiving about loop size if the roller is in place. It is much more forgiving with the roller removed. If the intermittant sprocket, sprocket shoe, and other gate parts are adjusted properly, there should be no problem with picture jump as long as the intermittant, coupler, and outboard bearing arm is in good shape. I transplanted 5 Pro-35's to another theatre, all of which I removed the rollers in 1983. Those machines I transplanted have negligable picture jump.
| IP: Logged
|
|
|
|
|
All times are Central (GMT -6:00)
|
|
Powered by Infopop Corporation
UBB.classicTM
6.3.1.2
The Film-Tech Forums are designed for various members related to the cinema industry to express their opinions, viewpoints and testimonials on various products, services and events based upon speculation, personal knowledge and factual information through use, therefore all views represented here allow no liability upon the publishers of this web site and the owners of said views assume no liability for any ill will resulting from these postings. The posts made here are for educational as well as entertainment purposes and as such anyone viewing this portion of the website must accept these views as statements of the author of that opinion
and agrees to release the authors from any and all liability.
|