One more ?. When i turn the motor over by hand, i hear a scraping or rubbing like sound. Neither the pulley nor inching knob are rubbing against anything. Does it need oil? How is a motor oiled?

Below are pics of the motor wiring, and then the outside front with the 2 plugs of some sort.


Finally, this is what i have so far. Soundhead is cleaned and put back together, projector is "naked" and waiting for the motor.

Thanks
Danny

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Which motor do you have? Is it a black Bodine? I don't have the wire color code handy, but in the next copule of days, I should have it available. Maybe someone can provide you with that color code sooner than that.

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Also it is appropriate that there is a partially exposed phillips item behind the machine since Ed Nelson ripped off the DP75 design for the pro35

That thing is coming along nicely in your picture......

But that cue detector will work, but it is obsolete. But you might not have much of an option if you run reel-to-reel. Most standard cue detector/fail-safes won't mechanically fit if you are using 2000 foot take-up magazines without major spacer modifications. And then, you would still have to remove the "can" to have enough clearence because the fire trap rollers are usually part of the lower can. Make sense?

I know many will disagree with me, but remove the roller and shaft which is circled in the below picture. This roller is of the old style, and it will cause horizontal emulsion side scratches on the film. I removed all of mine with very little or no adverse effects on the PRO-35 performance. You will hear a little more loop noise, but that's no big deal. I ran my PRO-35's for years without this roller, and never regreted it. It sure beats the hell out of scratching prints.

As far as the fail-safe/cue detector is concerned, if you remove that unit you will find that the red circled roller and shaft assy in the picture will fit in the cue detector/fail-safe's place very nicely, and it will be in perfect alignment.

For loop size out of the intermittant sprocket, adjust the loop so it will be slightly above the shaft's hole just before pulldown, and slightly below the hole immediately after pulldown. That seemed to work very well for sound sync in a 60-foot (or smaller) projection throw house.

Another thing about the roller - the newer ones Ballentyne made are much more grooved in the center to keep the film slap from coming in contact with the center of the roller which caused the horizontal scratches.

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Gordon said:

quote:

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If the loop was the right size I never had scratching but if it was too big it sure marked them up.

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I cannot dispute Gordon's comment. Unfortunately, the PRO-35 is not very forgiving about loop size if the roller is in place. It is much more forgiving with the roller removed. If the intermittant sprocket, sprocket shoe, and other gate parts are adjusted properly, there should be no problem with picture jump as long as the intermittant, coupler, and outboard bearing arm is in good shape.

I transplanted 5 Pro-35's to another theatre, all of which I removed the rollers in 1983. Those machines I transplanted have negligable picture jump.

All I did was take a power cord from an old lamp, and connect the 2 wires to the two screws on the left side of that relay box . Motor sounds good, about the same level of noise as any from a portable 16mm projector! I let it run for about 20 mins, no change in sound or burning smell. I'll get the belt from the local CinEquip dealer sometime next week so I can finally run the projector.
(of course i'll hook up some sort of switching device eventually)

Danny

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