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This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2
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Topic: Stange white lines in top picture ??
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Randy Stankey
Film God
Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 11-03-2002 04:55 PM
When polyester film was popularized the method of splicing had to change. You can't use cement to splice poly. Editors and lab operators had to switch to ultrasonic splicers. (A fancy form of using heat to fuse the two pieces of film together.) Those splice lines, be they chemical/cement splices or ultrasonic/heat splices do show up in the final print when the negatives are duplicated.When that happened, the width of the splice line got just a hair-bit wider. In order to compensate for that, SMPTE declared that aperture plates be made just a hair-bit smaller (in the vertical dimension) to cover the white mark left by the wider splices. This is not a problem with FLAT prints because only SCOPE prints will use the whole frame. FLAT prints only use (approximately) HALF the area of each frame. Fat frame lines don't matter. What is likely to be happening to you is one of two things: (Or both)
- Your aperture plates are still filed to the old standard and the fat frame lines are showing through when you come to a scene/camera change.
- You are framing your picture just a hair-bit too high or low. Try adjusting your framing knob just an wee bit up or down and see if you can't make it go away.
True, some films may have bad, out of place or non-standard frame lines which will exacerbate the problem. In which case you probably just have to live with it and be secure in the knowledge that 90% of the people out there don't have the "mental bandwidth" to recognize it. If it's just one or two prints every once in a while, don't worry about it. There's not a lot you can do. IF you have this problem a lot, especially if it happens on more than one projector in your complex, call your tech and have him make you new aperture plates to the new SMPTE standard. One final thought: Might you have a gremlin in your theatre that likes to file aperture plates?
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Aaron Sisemore
Flaming Ribs beat Reeses Peanut Butter Cups any day!
Posts: 3061
From: Rockwall TX USA
Registered: Sep 1999
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posted 11-04-2002 11:00 AM
>>Isn't polyester used only in release prints?<<I have handled unmarried Estar work prints and Estar dailies, and am pretty sure that all other production stocks (except for the camera negative itself, which has to be 'breakable' in case of a potentially expensive and disastrous film jam inside of a camera) are now Estar based. Dave W.: XXX is from Sony. -Aaron
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John Pytlak
Film God
Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 11-04-2002 03:16 PM
Camera original negatives are almost always on triacetate base. Negative cutters use cement splices, typically made on a classic Bell and Howell foot-operated splicer, or a heated tabletop splicer like a Maier-Hancock: here ACVL Conforming/Splicing TipsDuplicate negatives used for release printing use either triacetate base or polyester base. With modern high speed printing, polyester base is usually preferred by the labs. Splices between scenes are RARE in a duplicate negative: here Kodak VISION Color Intermediate Film here Kodak Intermediate Film Catalog SMPTE Recommended Practice RP111 specifies the dimensions of splices, and notes the need for less overlap (dimension A) when splicing anamorphic negatives. However, some labs/negative cutters prefer the greater reliability of a slightly wider splice, which can result in visible splice lines at scene changes. Splice lines can be completely eliminated by using A/B roll printing and "checkerboard" splicing with "zero cuts" when printing the spliced negative: here ACVL Invisible Splice Technique ------------------ John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7525A Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA Tel: +1 585 477 5325 Cell: +1 585 781 4036 Fax: +1 585 722 7243 e-mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com Web site: here
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