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This topic comprises 5 pages: 1 2 3 4 5
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Author
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Topic: The Logic of Threading a Projector Top to Bottom
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Scott Norwood
Film God
Posts: 8146
From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas)
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 01-20-2003 08:06 AM
I mostly work with Century heads (on Century, SH-1000, or Western Electric soundheads). On these, I thread the intermittent sprocket first, then close the gate, then set the upper and lower loops and thread the soundhead and (if reel-to-reel) the takeup reel. I thread Cinemeccanicas the same way; with Simplex and Kinoton (where the intermittent shoe is part of the gate), I find it easier to thread the upper loop before the intermittent.
I was never really trained to thread projectors; I was just given a threading diagram and figured the rest out myself. Since I'd always threaded 16mm machines top to bottom, I used the same method for 35mm. The top-down method is more intuitive for most people, since that is the direction in which the film moves (VistaVision projectors notwithstanding). With practice, the leader won't touch the floor (or will just barely touch).
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Thomas Procyk
Phenomenal Film Handler
Posts: 1842
From: Royal Palm Beach, FL, USA
Registered: Feb 2002
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posted 01-20-2003 03:20 PM
I am intrigued.(sp?) I was taught to thread top down, saw everyone I know do it that way, and I still do it to this day.
I never had to "re-make" loops, always in frame, but that leader thing would always get me. Sometimes it would hit the floor, sometimes it would stay suspended in the air, depending on how much slack I left.
quote: If you start at the bottom and work your way up and you didn't pull enough leader, you end up pulling more from the top automatically. If you start at the top and work down and didn't pull enough leader, you are screwed.
This I don't understand, and I encountered the opposite problem when trying to teach myself to thread bottom-up. I find it hard to do with Strong platters, trying to keep the threading pin to stay put.
On some of the machines at my complex, it's impossible to thread just the top magazine roller and leave the bottom one for when threading because of cables and conduits in the way.
Still, one of these days when I don't have a billion things to do, I will take the time to learn the other way. There's really no point to my efforts, though, since everyone else threads by pulling the leader onto the floor as fast as possible so the first 30 seconds of the first trailer are wrapping around themselves and around the brain. *sigh*
=TMP=
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Ken Lackner
Phenomenal Film Handler
Posts: 1907
From: Atlanta, GA, USA
Registered: Sep 2001
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posted 01-20-2003 03:52 PM
I have only worked with two brands of projector: Kinoton and Simplex (several models of each). I started to teach myself the bottup-up method for one reason: to keep the leader off the floor. I have found that it is much faster and easier with Kinoton. But with Simplex, I thought it was much easier the old way: start with the gate so that it is in fram, then thread up and down. Doing it like this I never had to remake loops. Since I started threading bottom-up on Simplex, I have had to ocassionaly remake the lower loop, and I find the whole process generaly more difficult. I guess it's just a matter of personal opinion which way is easier. The only reason I continue to do it is the reason I started to do it: to keep the leader off the floor.
quote: I find it hard to do with Strong platters, trying to keep the threading pin to stay put.
That's an easy one. As you grab the leader to start threading your projector, I imagine the pin gets dislodged, right? No problem. Once you have the film threaded on the lowest sprocket, the bottom leader isn't going anywhere. The elevator will travel to the top, so the leader will be nice and tight between the projector and platter. Make sense?
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