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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Chinagraphing Splices (Page 1)

 
This topic comprises 2 pages: 1  2 
 
Author Topic: Chinagraphing Splices
Neil McGovern
Film Handler

Posts: 35
From: Sheffield, UK
Registered: May 2002


 - posted 01-28-2003 07:15 AM      Profile for Neil McGovern   Author's Homepage   Email Neil McGovern   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
We seem to have a split opinion in our booth:
Is it good to chinagraph a splice between reels on a tape splice or not?

The arguments go as follows:
Yes - It makes it easier for make down
No - You don't need to as you can hear the splice anyway.
Yes - On an older film, there may be a great deal of splices, and it's hard to tell which is which
No - That just means it takes longer to make down, and it also reduces presentation
Yes - Not if it is done properly.
No - Bah!
Yes - Bah!

Any advice as to if splices should be marked or not?

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Duncan Smith
Film Handler

Posts: 50
From: England
Registered: Jan 2003


 - posted 01-28-2003 07:24 AM      Profile for Duncan Smith   Email Duncan Smith   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
It can be done in a way so as to not pollute the image or soundtrack but many don't take the care unfortunately. In my experience the most sanitary way of highlighting a splice for breaking down a film is to use "splicemark" tape. It doesn't disrupt the soundtrack, analogue or Dig if used properly and is obviously removed after use. A bit costly though but not mega-bucks.

All the best.

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 01-28-2003 07:41 AM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Unfortunately, Chinagraph markers usually leave some waxy debris that can be seen on the screen, or interfere with the soundtrack. At least the marks can be completely removed with a solvent-based film cleaner. There have been many threads discussing the marking of reel change splices. Best practice is to NOT mark the film with anything that may make the splice more visible to the audience or risk disrupting the sound.

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Michael Brown
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1522
From: Bradford, England
Registered: May 2001


 - posted 01-28-2003 10:30 AM      Profile for Michael Brown   Email Michael Brown   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
If you want to mark splices, make sure you just mark a vertical line down the frameline. But stop before you get to the soundtrack. A simple vertical line is as easy to spot as
a massive 'X' that covers all of the frame.

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Leo Enticknap
Film God

Posts: 7474
From: Loma Linda, CA
Registered: Jul 2000


 - posted 01-28-2003 11:58 AM      Profile for Leo Enticknap   Author's Homepage   Email Leo Enticknap   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
An alternative to chinagraph would be to use joining tape which has a mark printed on it, e.g. Splicemark (as mentioned above) or T-stripe tape from Jack Roe. With the tape applied as it should be, a thick yellow line is visible at the film edge and across the splice, both of which come off with the tape when it is removed.

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Neil McGovern
Film Handler

Posts: 35
From: Sheffield, UK
Registered: May 2002


 - posted 01-28-2003 01:07 PM      Profile for Neil McGovern   Author's Homepage   Email Neil McGovern   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
It's the thin vertical line method which we use.

And it's on the actual splicing tape, so there's no damage to the film after it's been taken off.

Our main problem with edge marking tape is cost, as we run single showings, (6 per week), so we get through a lot of the stuff.

Wouldn't the edge-marked tape interfere with SRD/SDDS tracks at all (we plate on sound-track up, so the yellow edge would cover the primary SDDS track at least)?

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Leo Enticknap
Film God

Posts: 7474
From: Loma Linda, CA
Registered: Jul 2000


 - posted 01-28-2003 04:11 PM      Profile for Leo Enticknap   Author's Homepage   Email Leo Enticknap   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote:
And it's on the actual splicing tape, so there's no damage to the film after it's been taken off.
As John notes, the chinagraph will press against the adjoining layer in the roll and some will come off. The makers of pre-printed tape claim that it is a lot more resistant to this. Jack Roe also claim that the yellow markings on their tape are so positioned as to avoid interfering with any of the optical digital formats, but having never used the stuff myself I couldn't comment on how effective or otherwise it is.

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Daryl C. W. O'Shea
Film God

Posts: 3977
From: Midland Ontario Canada (where Panavision & IMAX lenses come from)
Registered: Jun 2002


 - posted 01-28-2003 04:33 PM      Profile for Daryl C. W. O'Shea   Author's Homepage   Email Daryl C. W. O'Shea   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
You don't need the 'yellow stripe' on the soundtrack side since you can see the entire frame as it comes off the platter.

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Scott Norwood
Film God

Posts: 8146
From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas)
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-28-2003 07:08 PM      Profile for Scott Norwood   Author's Homepage   Email Scott Norwood   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
If you're just running one show of each print, can't you just have someone sit in the booth and stick a small piece of paper in the takeup reel/platter to mark the spot each time a splice runs through?

I used to do this all the time in a 6000' changeover booth and it sped up breakdowns considerably.

Second choice would be zebra tape, although I personally think it's tacky and the quality of the tape isn't as good as Neumade clear.

I'm not a big fan of using china markers to indicate reel changes, but at least their use doesn't result in permanent (nonremovable) markings on the film.

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-28-2003 10:40 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I use the eprad edge marker kit wit a white paint marker and never have it drip down into the sdds track

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John Spooner
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 186
From: South Australia, Australia
Registered: Jan 2003


 - posted 01-29-2003 09:57 AM      Profile for John Spooner   Email John Spooner   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
What I do Personally is to draw a line along the frameline with chinagraph on the tape itself, stopping short of the soundtrack. Just a single line suffices.
Then the breaking down operator can easily see the frameline, as well as being able to locate the correct splice if there is more than one in near proximity.
John Spooner, South Australia.

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Robert E. Allen
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1078
From: Checotah, Oklahoma
Registered: Jul 2002


 - posted 01-29-2003 06:23 PM      Profile for Robert E. Allen   Email Robert E. Allen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Several years ago when I filled in for the local projectionist he showed me how he built up his prints and I noticed he would use Kiwi liquid white shoe polish with a sponge applicator to mark the edge of the film at the splices.

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 01-29-2003 08:58 PM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
White shoe polish is notorious for oozing into the track and picture area, and causing flaky debris in the image -- Film Done WRONG!. [Frown]

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Matthew Bailey
Master Film Handler

Posts: 461
From: Port Arthur,TX
Registered: Sep 2000


 - posted 01-29-2003 09:01 PM      Profile for Matthew Bailey   Email Matthew Bailey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Um according to one of the Kodak tech manuals I have on theatre projection etiquitte, using shoe polish for splice marking is a no-no. I think after applying the splicing tape,mark the tape splices on their surfaces with adhesive fluorescent yellow or orange dots probably across the two joined frames. When breaking down, they'll come off with the tape splices.

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Mike Rendall
Film Handler

Posts: 78
From: Southampton, Hampshire, UK
Registered: Nov 2002


 - posted 01-30-2003 03:47 AM      Profile for Mike Rendall   Email Mike Rendall   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
We use a white waterbased pen called posca. You can buy it in many art shops in the uk. If you run it down the edge of the film using the side of the nib rather than the end it looks invisible until you put it on the platter where it stands out a mile. Obviously at breakdown it can be wiped off with a slightly damp cloth.

Not sure how it would work on wet cleaner pads though, maybe being water based it would be ok.

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