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Topic: Strong DC ignitors and long bulbs
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Rick Long
Jedi Master Film Handler
Posts: 759
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Nov 1999
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posted 02-16-2003 08:25 PM
Introducing the players: Strong Highlight II console, Strong 82-80005 switching rectifier, Osram 3000 W/H bulb. D.C. ignitor,(light grey box)
"Bulb won't light, but I can hear a ticking sound within the lamphouse"
(thinking: a ticking sound means he has sufficient DC voltage to enable the ignitor - so rectifier is probably ok), Is there a spark within the bulb?
"No"
Okay, check to see that the anode cable isn't touching or near anything grounded like the anode support base, reflector or even dowser.
"Nope, all is ok there."
Did you try your spare ignitor?
"Yup, still no go"
I hung up the phone and headed out.
The problem was described accurately. I could hear the ignitor firing, but the spark wasn't jumping the bulb.
Opening the non-operating side door, and by-passing the magnetic interlock with a small magnet, I activated the lamp on switch. It took a minute to see it, but there was indeed a spark - not across the bulb, but from the teflon negative adaptor to the edge of the bulb focus mechanism.
I removed the bulb and teflon adaptor. Except for some carbonization where the spark had been jumping, it looked fine. Cleaned it up and tried again.
Same story. The spark was jumping from the teflon (actually through the teflon) to ground.
The night shift projectionist walked in around that time. I showed him what was happening. Then he said the magic phrase;
"Ya know, I think we got another one of those things in our parts cabinet"
(Sometimes God is kind to old soundmen).
Replaced it, bulb stuck fine.
A few days later, when repeating this story, I had heard that sometimes the D.C. ignitors have a problem with long bulbs such as the 3000 W/H and the 3000 W/HS would be a safer bulb to use in this case.
Anyone else found this?
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