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Topic: Automating the EL-40
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Rick Long
Jedi Master Film Handler
Posts: 759
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Nov 1999
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posted 04-28-2003 10:39 PM
Spring fever has once again broken out here and I am too lazy to think of what will probably be an all-to-obvious solution to this problem, so I throw it out to those who haven't yet suffered from this malady.
Strong Highlight II console. Simplex projector (1060) and 5-star sound-head TA-10 automation.
In equipping these units for the up and coming (this time for sure, or so we have been told, again) the dreaded cyan sound-tracks, we are using C.E.'s kit for converting from the infa-red to bright-red l.e.d. units. To save us the time of converting the EL-2A supplies (which we are quite capable of) to prevent l.e.d. burn-out if incorrectly polarized, we have instead been given the EL-40 units.
The 40's are quite compact, (although I wish they had made them mechanically replaceable for the EL-2A's).
The thing is this: In the past, in order to preserve the 770nM life in other units, we had simply wired the power line of the EL-2's across the motor "on" terminals at the automation. Thus when the motor came on, the exciter came on also. If you happened (seldom, but it could happen) to turn on the motor with the cinema processor in an optical format, it created a "thump" which not only woke up the audience, but cleaned the cobwebs out of the speaker systems. Mind you, we are de-powering the pre-amps at intermission too - not really sure if this is a good thing although there have been no failures in almost 100 conversions.
The 40's however offer an intriguing possibility. Two 1/4" push-on terminals offer a way in which; (a) if the terminals are not connected, the l.e.d. will remain on. (b) if the terminals are shorted, the l.e.d. will turn off Not only this, but there is a "ramp" to the on and off conditions that prevents that "thump" in the speakers.
I am trying to come up with a simple way in which this could be used for both automatic and manual running conditions. Please bear in mind that these are used by less-than experienced operators so the addition of an extra switch for them to operate is NOT a good idea.
I have thought of putting a 110-volt relay across the motor "on terminals and wiring these two lugs to the normally closed contacts of the relay.
Is there a simpler solution?
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