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Author Topic: Cleaning & Relubricating floating hub reels Erick Akers Arse Kicker Posts: 201 From: Dallas, TX, USA Registered: May 2001 posted 10-11-2003 02:05 AM                     Hi Guys, I am cleaning a few Goldberg Bros. floating hub reels. What can I use to re lubricate them...... KY or Doc Johnson's? Just kidding, but they are water based lubricants, and I don't want to trash any film. Thanks, Erick  |  IP: Logged Ken Layton Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1452 From: Olympia, Wash. USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 10-11-2003 09:50 AM                     Try some "Super Lube Dri-Film" silicone lubricant (in a spray can with a pipe). It's a dry silicone spray that does not attract dirt. You can get it at Lowe's. The barcode is 082353110162.  |  IP: Logged Chris Hipp Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1462 From: Mesquite, Tx (east of Dallas) Registered: Jul 2003 posted 10-11-2003 02:11 PM                     Are the floating hub reels the kind that the flanges spin freely?? I have tons of those that are locked up.  |  IP: Logged Greg Mueller Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1687 From: Port Gamble, WA Registered: Jun 99 posted 10-11-2003 02:35 PM                        You shouldn't clean them you should just send them to me for safe keeping  |  IP: Logged Erick Akers Arse Kicker Posts: 201 From: Dallas, TX, USA Registered: May 2001 posted 10-11-2003 06:46 PM                     Yes they are Chris. The ones I have are not locked up, some can be completely disassembled but the others have pressed in brads. Guess I'm going to have to put those in the deep freeze to remove them. Nice try Greg. Maybe Chris would like to give his to me, I'm much closer!!! Ken, Do you think that this is a better solution then the (I'm guessing) silicon grease that is already there? As they are designed for a slow start up, wouldn't a dry spray type cause the take off speed to be a bit quicker?  |  IP: Logged Manny Knowles "What are these things and WHY are they BLUE???" Posts: 4247 From: Bloomington, IN, USA Registered: Feb 2002 posted 10-11-2003 08:04 PM                     Duplication Justification Intoxication Assassination (Duplicate Post)  |  IP: Logged Manny Knowles "What are these things and WHY are they BLUE???" Posts: 4247 From: Bloomington, IN, USA Registered: Feb 2002 posted 10-11-2003 08:04 PM                     Just chiming in... I had some 6k reels with fixed hub and those things can be lethal even at moderate speeds! A floating hub is better/safer. Still, I'm not sure if that's really the reason behind the floating hub. Anyone wanna clarify?  |  IP: Logged Gerard S. Cohen Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 975 From: Forest Hills, NY, USA Registered: Sep 2001 posted 10-11-2003 08:47 PM                     I believe they minimize edge damage, especially where slight misalignment causes the film to touch the rotating edge of the flanges, which tend to become sharp and burred with careless handling. (They should never be rolled or stored on concrete surfaces.) With careless handling, such as rewinding at high speeds, the flanges can wear at the hub contact, enlarging the diameter of the flange hole, causing noise and vibration, especially in the cheaper ones made of softer aluminum.  |  IP: Logged Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 10-11-2003 08:52 PM                     For platter work, I prefer the solid hub reels. Working with floaters on the bench is annoying. You can't really do "hand braking" on them. I also prefer solid hub reels for simply carrying them around the booth, as the 4 holes in the middle of a Goldberg 6000' floater will cut your fingers off. But to your answer, the floating hub reels are so a reel to reel setup can get the reel spinning fast enough so it does not allow slack to develop between the soundhead's holdback sprocket and the takeup reel. If slack develops, it will break acetate film or rip polyester film past the sprockets. It's merely a weight issue. I'll show you when you visit.  |  IP: Logged Matthew Bailey Master Film Handler Posts: 461 From: Port Arthur,TX Registered: Sep 2000 posted 10-11-2003 10:04 PM                     Graphite lock lube applied with cotton swabs(let dry before using reels)?  |  IP: Logged Tim Reed Better Projection Pays Posts: 5246 From: Northampton, PA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 10-12-2003 07:59 AM                       My method: I used to set the bad reel on a rewind bench spindle, apply a liberal amount of lube (I used to use projector oil - but that might weld Estar film these days, if it finds its way to the film), turn the rewind on full speed, and just grab that flange and hold it still while it cleaned itself out and the oil worked its way inside. It'll raise three kinds of hell at first and I'd sometimes get a call from downstairs about the noise, but in a few seconds, it'll start to free up and spin smoother. Then you can add a bit more lube to finish the job, or until it spins freely. Keep some paper towels handy, because all the dirt and grime will start being flung outward on the flange (don't forget the inside). After a few high speed spins and cleans, the reel will be good as new. Btw, the hubs that you can take apart (held together with big screws) have been repaired with the Goldberg kit.  |  IP: Logged Greg Mueller Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1687 From: Port Gamble, WA Registered: Jun 99 posted 10-12-2003 11:13 AM                        Hey Try some Film Guard on those hubs. Can't hurt the film  |  IP: Logged Jack Ondracek Film God Posts: 2348 From: Port Orchard, WA, USA Registered: Oct 2002 posted 10-12-2003 05:29 PM                        quote: A floating hub is better/safer. Still, I'm not sure if that's really the reason behind the floating hub. Anyone wanna clarify? When I used towers for film transports, a floating hub reel was required on the takeups. It's a lot easier to get a floating hub turning than an entire reel. Using a fixed-hub reel generally guaranteed film damage or fail-safe drop-outs at startup... even with slow-start machines. The Eprad Double-Muts & Sword transports didn't seem to care, though. They worked equally well with floating or fixed-hub reels.  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 10-13-2003 12:40 AM                     If you ever check the patent on the Goldberg floating hub "EZ" reels...you will be surprised to find that the patent relates to a .... Self-threading reel! If you recall back in your home movie days with the likes of 8mm...the take up reel was sent spinning at full speed as the auto-thread mechanism forced the film through thed projector. When it came out, the film would enter the take-up reel where it would catch near the hub (often there were hooks down there or just a wavy spring to pinch the film or a combination. The idea in the patent was so when the film caught....the hub ONLY would jerk to a stop and the flanges would not impart their stored energy into the film. I've never seen a Goldberg Auto-thread reel but have used tons of their standard floaters (with the patent number on the hub). For reel-to-reel operation over 15"...they are the best way to fly (floating hubs, regardless of manufacture). Steve  |  IP: Logged Philippe Laude Film Handler Posts: 79 From: Longueville, Belgium Registered: Jul 99 posted 10-13-2003 07:51 AM                     I just HATE floating hub reels. As Brad says you can't "hand brake' them, unless you pinch the flanges against the film, horrible! I don't know Goldberg ones, I've only worked with Cinemeccanica 18000'ones. To my knowledge they were born to help their tower at starting, to somehow fight the inertia, preventing the slack in film winding. A floating hub reel is totally useless on a well designed tower. If a tower can handle the weight of a print it must be capable of handling the extra weight of both flanges, which represents but a small fraction of the weight of the print.  |  IP: Logged

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