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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » framing: which way is up? (Page 1)

 
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Author Topic: framing: which way is up?
Carl Martin
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1424
From: Oakland, CA, USA
Registered: Feb 2002


 - posted 11-06-2003 03:01 AM      Profile for Carl Martin   Author's Homepage   Email Carl Martin   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
when i say i'm framing up, what i mean is that i'm moving the image onscreen up relative to the frame. do i have this wackbards?

carl

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Mike Olpin
Chop Chop!

Posts: 1852
From: Dallas, TX
Registered: Jan 2002


 - posted 11-06-2003 04:04 AM      Profile for Mike Olpin   Email Mike Olpin   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
When i use the term frame up, I mean turning the knob down to make the image higher in the frame.

But now that you mention it, I don't know if thats right.

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 11-06-2003 06:00 AM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Framing "up" or "down" usually refers to the direction the frame moves on screen. Of course, in the projector gate, it's in the opposite direction, since the lens changes orientation.

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Steve Kraus
Film God

Posts: 4094
From: Chicago, IL, USA
Registered: May 2000


 - posted 11-06-2003 10:50 AM      Profile for Steve Kraus     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I just try to remember that on my X-L's (okay...Simplex 35's but they're still X-L's to me) the backside of the framing knob, if rotated, moves in the direction as the image will on the screen. I would call moving the image up on the screen (reducing headroom) "framing up" and vice versa.

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Edward Jurich
Master Film Handler

Posts: 305
From: Las Vegas USA
Registered: Jul 2003


 - posted 11-06-2003 11:11 AM      Profile for Edward Jurich   Email Edward Jurich   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Then there are those bad moments when you frame up (or down) and run out of movement just before the frame line goes off screen and you have to go all the way the other direction. [Eek!]

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Darryl Spicer
Film God

Posts: 3250
From: Lexington, KY, USA
Registered: Dec 2000


 - posted 11-06-2003 02:44 PM      Profile for Darryl Spicer     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The solution to that is to center the framing mechanism so the it is in the center travel position. Basically two sprocket holes one way or the other.

Of course you could do like Brad says, (he will probably be posting this in this thread, Just lock down the framing knob so it won't turn and thread in frame. [Razz]

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 11-06-2003 03:34 PM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote:
Of course you could do like Brad says, (he will probably be posting this in this thread, Just lock down the framing knob so it won't turn and thread in frame.

And SPLICE in frame, of course. Film Done Right! [Smile]

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Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 11-06-2003 04:52 PM      Profile for Randy Stankey   Email Randy Stankey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
As to which direction makes the fram go up...

On my Simplex: Turning the framing knob CLOCKWISE rotates the intermittent the same direction, thus pulling the film farther down in the gate. This would cause the image on the screen to appear to rise. Turning the knob in the opposite direction would naturally have the opposite effect. On the off-operator's side knob, since you would be facing in the opposite direction you would have to turn the knob COUNTER-CLOCKWISE to raise the image.

On my Century: Turning the framing knob CLOCKWISE racks the intermittent downward. The film is pulled farther into the gate. The image appears to rise on the screen.

In summary, turning the knob so that the BACK SECTION of the knob goes upward will make the image appear to move upward on the screen.

Locking the framing knob is all well and good if you don't have to fudge playback of different aspect ratios. My situation is different on several counts.

Right now, I only have 1.85 and 2.39 lens/aperture sets. If I get a 1.75 or 1.66 print I will have to play it through my 1.85 lens. I may have to frame it up or down to make the subtitles fit on the screen. Furthermore, there are a few prints which, not only come in funky aspect ratios (defined as those I don't have lens sets for) but also have frame registration (printing) differences which require framing adjustments at reel changes.

Locking the framing knob would totally screw my presentation in these situations!

When I get the new lenses for my Simplex I hope to rectify this problem. I still won't lock the knob, though. First, I'm not the only one running the machine anymore and the other people still make mistakes, though they try hard to do it right. It wouldn't be fair to them. Second, I'm not willing to interrupt a show full of paying customers just to make an adjustment that COULD have been done in mere seconds had the framing knob been functional.

My solution is simply not to teach people to use the framing knob. My situation is somewhat different than most. There are as many as 3 or 4 projectionist trainees on duty with me at every show. If one of my students makes a stupid framing mistake there will be at least 2 other people standing there making fun of him! (Peer pressure is a good motivator! [evil] ) Most of our customers are regulars. They are used to seeing good presentations. If there are mistakes like that, a fairly large percentage of them WILL notice! A large percentage of THOSE people would come and complain.

If fact, last term that very situation came up! The film went out of frame for some reason. I don't know exactly why. I wasn't in the room at the time. A customer came out and complained. The incident got written up in the student newspaper. My boss came into my office and plunked the paper down on my desk, asking me, "What the hell is going on here!?" (It's bad ehough when the boss calls you into HIS office! It's even worse when the boss seeks you out in YOUR office!) I had to write that student up and threaten him with being kicked off the projection staff if he did that again. I gave him an "escape clause", though. I told him that IF he could get through the rest of the term with ZERO mistakes I would tear up the papers. He did. I kept my promise.

So, you can see why I refuse to lock the framink knob.

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Phil Hill
I love my cootie bug

Posts: 7595
From: Hollywood, CA USA
Registered: Mar 2000


 - posted 11-06-2003 05:10 PM      Profile for Phil Hill   Email Phil Hill       Edit/Delete Post 
quote:
Of course you could do like Brad says, (he will probably be posting this in this thread, Just lock down the framing knob so it won't turn and thread in frame.
Oh Puhleezze! Brad doesn't know what he's talking about. There is NO guarantee that Kodak will punch the perfs in the raw print stock in the right place relative to the frame lines.

As mentioned, ALWAYS center the framing range and rack the projector to just after the pull-down before threading.

Then thread top to bottom, dragging as much of the print on the floor before winding up the take-up reel/platter to make sure the next theatre will not have a quality print. That way, all the business will come to your theatre.

>>> Phil

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 11-06-2003 05:36 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Phil you also forgot that on your 1570 run it always with the air off (save energy) and to always if possible bypass a roller and drag the print a cross a sharp non moving object
As for framing move the seats in the auditorium vertically to correct the problem [Big Grin]

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Phil Hill
I love my cootie bug

Posts: 7595
From: Hollywood, CA USA
Registered: Mar 2000


 - posted 11-06-2003 07:03 PM      Profile for Phil Hill   Email Phil Hill       Edit/Delete Post 
Of course Gordie...that goes without saying. Every Imax person knows that...right Adam?

>>> Phil

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Adam Martin
I'm not even gonna point out the irony.

Posts: 3686
From: Dallas, TX
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 11-06-2003 07:23 PM      Profile for Adam Martin   Author's Homepage   Email Adam Martin       Edit/Delete Post 
Actually, since 1570 runs horizontally, we just tell the audience to shift a seat to the left or right. [Big Grin]

quote:
There is NO guarantee that Kodak will punch the perfs in the raw print stock in the right place relative to the frame lines.
Framelines have nothing to do with film stock. This would only be affected by film alignment in the camera or film printer before it goes to the lab for release prints (contact prints).

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Daryl C. W. O'Shea
Film God

Posts: 3977
From: Midland Ontario Canada (where Panavision & IMAX lenses come from)
Registered: Jun 2002


 - posted 11-06-2003 07:29 PM      Profile for Daryl C. W. O'Shea   Author's Homepage   Email Daryl C. W. O'Shea   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
And all this time I thought you were just supposed to adjust the masking.

Way to go Adam, you just had to post truthful information.

I wish LaVezzi would put the teeth on the sprockets in the right place so that I didn't always have to set the intermittent before threading.

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Phil Hill
I love my cootie bug

Posts: 7595
From: Hollywood, CA USA
Registered: Mar 2000


 - posted 11-06-2003 07:29 PM      Profile for Phil Hill   Email Phil Hill       Edit/Delete Post 
Ummm Adam...it was a joke... Duh! You sure are dense sometimes...

Daryl, I think they should lose the teeth and use pinch rollers. (Ummm Adam, that was a joke too...)

>>> Phil

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Daryl C. W. O'Shea
Film God

Posts: 3977
From: Midland Ontario Canada (where Panavision & IMAX lenses come from)
Registered: Jun 2002


 - posted 11-06-2003 07:38 PM      Profile for Daryl C. W. O'Shea   Author's Homepage   Email Daryl C. W. O'Shea   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hey, if it works for sound heads why not.

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