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This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2
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Topic: Can I find documentation on how to replace our igniter? Safety tips?
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Randy Stankey
Film God
Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 03-31-2004 02:48 PM
Assuming that you are replacing the unit with one that is exactly the same:
You can take the wires off the original igniter, one at at time, then mark the wires and the terminals with pieces of tape. For instance, put a piece of tape on your first wire marked, "W-1". Put a piece of tape on its terminal marked, "T-1". Repeat the process... "W-2", "T-2", "W-3, "T-3", etc. until you have all the terminals and wires marked.
Next, you remove the old igniter and transfer the tapes with the "T-numbers" to the new one. Be sure to get the tapes onto the matching terminals! Then install the new one in the reverse order you took the old one out. Match up your "T-numbers" with your "W-numbers" and put the wires on the correct terminals. Make sure everything's tightened properly. Double check your wiring. Say a little prayer. Kick the tire. Light the fire. You should be good to go!
I don't suppose I have to remind you to turn off all the circuit breakers to the lamphouse, do I? ![[Wink]](wink.gif)
Don't forget that there may be more than one breaker. (I got nailed on that once!)
Do you know where the capacitors are in the rectifier? (Or even IF there are capacitors.) If so, take a screwdriver with an insulated handle and short them out. They'll go, "SNAP!!", and sparks will fly but it will save you from a painful (and potentially dangerous) shock. (I got bit by one of those, too! Not fun! Take it from me! )
Other than that, just work slowly and carefully. Use your common sense. It's not a hard job. Once you've done it a couple-few times, you can probably do it in, say, 30 minutes or less.
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Jackson Gilman
Film Handler
Posts: 37
From: Madison, WI, USA
Registered: Jan 2004
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posted 04-04-2004 12:42 PM
Great news! The replacement was a triumphant success. Bad news, it didn't fix the problem. Er, so I guess that's not really a triumphant success.
Before you say, "You idiot," I'd just like to explain that the information I was given by my manager beforehand was what led me to changing the igniter PCB. He told me that, "There are plenty of good hours left on that bulb, so the bulb's fine. It's not the bulb. Trust me."
Well, now I happen to think it's the bulb, because the igniter is pulsing at about 2 pulses a second. The open circuit voltage rises to a stable 150 V DC (which I know is bad). After about 5 or 6 minutes the bulb finally strikes with a good light level.
The board I took out /did/ happen to have two of the capacitors snapped off. The new one has all five (or is it six?) attatched to it. Also there were traces of corrosion around the solder joints on the spark gap, but I figure that's normal wear n' tear.
Pending a bulb swap-out, and if it turns out NOT to be the bulb, what then do I need to do about this problem?
Thanks again for all of your highly informative help. I couldn't have done it without your support!
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John Pytlak
Film God
Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 04-07-2004 11:36 AM
As long as it doesn't go through your body! ![[Eek!]](eek.gif)
Just remember, it's CURRENT that kills. Under the right conditions, even a few volts could let a fatal level of current go through the body:
http://hypertextbook.com/facts/2000/JackHsu.shtml
quote:
A common misconception is that larger voltages are more dangerous than smaller ones. However, this is not quite true. The danger to living things comes not from the potential difference, but rather the current flowing between two points. The reason that people may believe this can be explained by the equation V = IR. Since V is directly proportional to I, an increase in voltage can mean an increase in current, if resistance (R) is kept constant.
The amount of damage done by the electric shock depends not only on the magnitude of the current, but it also on which portions of the body that the electric current is flowing through. The reason for this is that different parts of the body have difference resistances, which can lead to an increase in current, evidenced by the formula V = IR.
An interesting fact to note is that it takes less alternating current (AC) to do the same damage as direct current (DC). AC will cause muscles to contract, and if the current were high enough, one would not be able to let go of whatever is causing the current coursing through the body. The cut-off value for this is known as the "let-go current". For women, it is typically 5 to 7 milliamperes, and for men, typically 7 to 9 milliamperes. This is dependent on the muscle mass of the individual.
In general, current that is fatal to humans ranges from 0.06 A to 0.07 A, depending on the person and the type of current.
http://www.t2.unh.edu/spring99/pg4.html
quote:
Current Values through Body Trunk in Milliamperes (ma)
Effect on Average Human Body
1 ma or less No sensation
1-8 milliamperes Sensation of shock. Person can let go.
8-15 milliamperes Painful shock. Person can let go at will, if muscle control not lost.
15 to 20 milliamperes Painful shock. Muscle control to adjacent muscles lost.
20-50 milliamperes Painful. Severe muscular contractions. Breathing is difficult.
50-100 milliamperes Probable Death
Greater than 100ma Death
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Randy Stankey
Film God
Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 04-07-2004 12:53 PM
So, my friends, the 600 amp disconnect and the 225 KVA transformer would probably be enough to knock an elephant on its ass!
OK. Silliness aside. Yes! Treat all power connections with respect! However, people who fear electricity too much are, in my opinion, just as vulnerable as people who don't respect it. Idiots who don't understand the dangers are bound to do something stupid and kill themselves or others. Scaredy-cats spend more time worrying about getting hurt and not doing the job safely. Neither of these kinds of people should be allowed to work with electricity, except to press the "ON" switch at the outside of the console.
I'm standing in front of the disconnect handle in that picture so you can't see that it is open and the handle is locked out. As most of us know, these boxes have interlocking covers that can't be opened until the handle is in the off position and the handle can't be put into the on position until the cover is closed.
For the most part, as long as you don't touch anything above the red contactors or reach behind that plastic shield you're safe. Believe me! As silly as the intent of that picture was, I did NOT take chances! All the power was turned off before that cover was opened!
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