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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Help me with my friggin' shotty aperture plates!

   
Author Topic: Help me with my friggin' shotty aperture plates!
Christian Volpi
Master Film Handler

Posts: 349
From: Arlington, NE
Registered: Apr 2004


 - posted 04-22-2004 10:08 AM      Profile for Christian Volpi   Author's Homepage   Email Christian Volpi   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Does anybody know of a quick and easy way to cut aperture plates? I'm too cheap to buy a bunch of plates and practice.

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Aaron Sisemore
Flaming Ribs beat Reeses Peanut Butter Cups any day!

Posts: 3061
From: Rockwall TX USA
Registered: Sep 1999


 - posted 04-22-2004 11:13 AM      Profile for Aaron Sisemore   Email Aaron Sisemore   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
First, make absolutely sure that your circuit permits you to do your own aperture work!

If they do, get yourself a 'nibbler' cutter (I believe you can still get them from Radio Shack) and a LaVezzi aperture file (absolutely necessary- Don't try cutting plates with any other standard file!). Find some old plates (you can usually find some in the booth somewhere) and experiment with the nibbler and the file- Remember that it doesn't take much cutting to show a huge difference on screen, especially with Scope!!)

Once you are satisfied that you can do this without too much destruction, get some new plates for the job (necessary if your present plates are overcut), run a loop of RP40, and begin cutting!

Warning: If you aren't careful, you can get yourself into big trouble in a hurry with the nibbler, but for working with 'pinhole' plates or cutting a scope from a flat plate its a gigantic time saver. Do all the final cutting, or any small jobs with the aperture file.

-Aaron

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-22-2004 11:33 AM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The problem have with a nibbler is often they will slightly distort the brass blank.
I tend to always start with a pinhole plate and use a burr in a dremmel tool to open up to the approximate size then a augur bit file
Gordon's RIDICULOUSLY LONG link
and for the corner a needle file

[ 04-22-2004, 02:54 PM: Message edited by: Adam Martin ]

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Ian Price
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1714
From: Denver, CO
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-22-2004 12:13 PM      Profile for Ian Price   Email Ian Price   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Note to self:

When cutting plates, you are removing material that is opposite what you see on the screen, because the image is reversed in the lens. So if you need to remove aperture material from the top of the screen on the right side. You need to file material from the bottom of the plate on the left side.

I have to stick my tongue firmly in the left side of my mouth and screw up my face to get this right. [uhoh]

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Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-22-2004 12:57 PM      Profile for Randy Stankey   Email Randy Stankey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Stand next to the projector, facing the screen and grab the plate with your left hand. Pull it out and swivel your hand/arm toward you and set it down on the surface in front of you so that the side of the plate that is supposed to face the screen now faces you.

Doing this, you have flipped the plate from left to right so that what you saw on the screen is the same as you see on the plate.

Now, all you have to remember top and bottom. If you are working on the top edge of the picture the bottom edge of the plate is already in position for you to work on it. If you are working on the bottom edge of the picture, just remember to give the plate a vertical flip.

Once you do this enough times it becomes automatic and you hardly have to even think about it.

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Trevor Bailey
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 113
From: Woonsocket, RI
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-22-2004 11:06 PM      Profile for Trevor Bailey   Author's Homepage   Email Trevor Bailey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Before getting anywhere near aperture plates, I feel it is imperative to check your lamphouse and image alignment on the screen. There are too many variables to go into here, but in a nutshell:

-light should be centered on your aperture
-lamphouse/projector should be centered on the screen
-verify true screen center left-right (measure)
-with RP-40 and lenses ensure center (left-right)
-do not move anything between cutting flat and scope

I don't know how many places I've found it necessary to adjust lateral alignment when changing lenses. Some even need vertical alignment when changing lenses.

Initial alignment and aperture cutting is not something for an untrained person. Get a qualified tech to show you how, so that you won't have all the "little" problems.

[ 04-23-2004, 04:14 PM: Message edited by: Trevor Bailey ]

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Rick Long
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 759
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Nov 1999


 - posted 04-23-2004 12:22 AM      Profile for Rick Long   Email Rick Long   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
RULE #1: Do the alignment first. LAST THING YOU TOUCH IS A FILE.

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Phil Blake
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 558
From: esperance western australia
Registered: Nov 2003


 - posted 04-23-2004 10:43 AM      Profile for Phil Blake   Author's Homepage   Email Phil Blake   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I agree with the others , go very slowly and gently with the cutting , It is hard to undo, Our plates in one cinema were over cut , we had to use a hammer and a parallel punch to spread the brass again , then file it back , Big Job.

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Frank Angel
Film God

Posts: 5305
From: Brooklyn NY USA
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 04-24-2004 07:24 AM      Profile for Frank Angel   Author's Homepage   Email Frank Angel   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Ian said,
quote: Ian Price
When cutting plates, you are removing material that is opposite what you see on the screen, because the image is reversed in the lens. So if you need to remove aperture material from the top of the screen on the right side. You need to file material from the bottom of the plate on the left side.

Do you have any idea how difficult this can get for those of us with dyslexia?! [Eek!]

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John Hawkinson
Film God

Posts: 2273
From: Cambridge, MA, USA
Registered: Feb 2002


 - posted 04-24-2004 03:41 PM      Profile for John Hawkinson   Email John Hawkinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
So, what is special about Lavezzi Aperture files? How are they different from, say, #4 cut swiss files or needle files? Maybe someone could post a picture?

--jhawk

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-24-2004 03:45 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I think they are awkward in shape and over priced
I use the auger bit for most of the cutting and needle files in the corner

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John Walsh
Film God

Posts: 2490
From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Registered: Oct 1999


 - posted 04-24-2004 05:26 PM      Profile for John Walsh   Email John Walsh   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Aperture files usually have one side smooth, or "blank" so you can file one side of an opening, but the blank side will not file the other side of the opening.

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Floyd Justin Newton
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 559
From: Phoenix, Arizona, USA
Registered: Jun 2002


 - posted 04-24-2004 07:52 PM      Profile for Floyd Justin Newton   Email Floyd Justin Newton   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
WHATEVER you do, take your time and don't rush!! I've seen more
kids gouge out plates to the point where new plates had to be
bought. And they wonder why they aren't paid [bs] !

fjn
Local 294 Ret.

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