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This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2
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Author
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Topic: Drying Prints
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Bill Langfield
Master Film Handler
Posts: 280
From: Prospect, NSW, Australia
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 08-30-2004 01:08 PM
I'm just curious, Jason, are you expecting a thunder storm while your next print is transit?
If that happens and it gets wet due to courier running the gauntlet between delivery van and cinema AND the the reels are not in sealed bags, I'd be doing what Floyd said, and sending it straight back.
(What are those condition Floyd? Sending it back to the lab for run through the driers? Wonder if that would work?)
However if your doing the RED CARPET screening and it's the only print in the world, I think the only way to screen it would be to (depending how wet it got) run on 2000' change-over or 6000' change-over. This you could keeep hold of the payout reel while the film is being sticky as hell.
Eprad double mutt 15000' spools would be the best way to go.
But if you only have one projector and platter, you'll be in for a horror night, laying over the payout plate 'ripping' each layer of film apart on every rotation (in fact, you'd need one person on each side of the plate plealing the film apart).
Been there done that after the roof leaked and Titanic got wet, but luckily we had a eprad mut, and moved it to that. After a few dozen runs the stickyness went away, but not the water marks. Didnt matter there was heaps of water in that film anyway, we just added more fx!
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John Pytlak
Film God
Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 08-30-2004 01:30 PM
Generally, you should NOT attempt to project a print that is wet or sticky with moisture. The gelatin emulsion quickly absorbs water, becoming very soft and sticky. If wet film is allowed to dry out while still wound in a roll, the film convolutions will stick together like glue, and the emulsion may delaminate from the film if the "blocked" roll is unwound.
Best practice would be to tightly wrap each wet roll in a polyethylene bag to keep it wet, and ship the film back ASAP so it can be properly unwound, rewashed, and dried at a processing lab. If the film stays wet for more than a week or so, mold or fungus growth is likely (gelatin is a good nutrient). If you can't ship the film back quickly, refrigerate the sealed rolls to prevent mold growth.
Here is a procedure to "do it yourself" for short lengths of film (e.g., a trailer):
http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/support/technical/storage_room.jhtml?id=0.1.4.11.12.10&lc=en#water
quote:
Water Damage
Another hazard for film that can significantly shorten its life is water from floods, fire fighting, burst pipes, leaky roofs, or other such sources. (And yet, if it wasn't for water, the film could not have been processed.) You can keep water damage to a minimum through quick salvage actions. Since very few motion picture laboratories offer film cleaning services for water(and mud ) damaged film, a salvage job is usually a do it yourself project as mentioned in the following steps and requires manual skill, patience, and a lot of improvising.
1. Keep the roll of film wet. If the film dries, the convolutions may be stuck together, ruining the film. For holding wet or muddy films prior to the cleaning operation, immerse the roll completely in containers of cold water, below 18°C (65°F). The cold water will help prevent both swelling and softening of the emulsion, which are the major causes of damage.
2. With the roll completely submerged underwater, gently rub the edges of the film to remove most of the mud and silt. Make frequent water changes.
3. Unwind the wet film carefully and slowly. Pass the strand of film under running water to remove any remaining mud or silt. In extreme cases, a gentle scrubbing action with a cotton swab may be needed to remove stubborn particles. Be careful in swabbing the film because the wet emulsion is very susceptible to physical damage. From the running water, pass the film through a tank containing water and a laundry or dishwater type of water softening solution to minimize spotting. Avoid any sudden temperature changes in the wash waters.
4. Drape the film carefully on a wash line to air dry. Try to keep the drying area dust free and avoid any surface contact to the wet emulsion side of the film. When the film is dry, clean and lubricate it by hand with a suitable film cleaner, as you wind it onto a reel. The ideal way to recondition water damaged film would be to have it go through a normal motion picture processing machine while using the proper solutions for the particular damaged films. One of the companies that restores or rejuvenates films may be able to help you.
Kodak does offer "disaster recovery" services to owners of irreplaceable films like microfilm of banking or business records:
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/business/docimaging/downloads/sellSheets/A-1610disasterRecovery.pdf
I know some on Film-Tech have reported coaxing a wet/sticky print through a projector by liberal application of FilmGuard. But if the print is really wet, you still need to dry it somehow. That's best left to a film laboratory to do in a processing machine dryer.
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Bill Langfield
Master Film Handler
Posts: 280
From: Prospect, NSW, Australia
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 09-05-2004 02:53 PM
Jolly good show David.
Let John know the TRUTH.
My tests are not complete, but here is my 'data' :-) so far.
Six 60 second ads of the same type wound seperately onto cores were placed into the bathroom hand basin full of tepit tap water, for at least 60 seconds.
The object was to then to subject each ad to...
1. Microwave 60 (allow to cool)
2. Microwave 5 mins (Don't touch for ten mins - ouch, my finger)
3. Ambient temp dry (around 19c)
4. Warm in Oven at 'warm to feel' oven (about 28c)
5. Hot in Oven at 'whoa, thats kinda hot' (about 40c)
6. Place in Frezzer right away. (It's still there)
I'll tell you right now..
1. & 2. NEVER bother microwaving film. All it seemed to was is turn the emultion into glue, that peeled off the base. (Oh its hard to explain. Just dont bother with that one)
3. Slightly sticky after 2 hours, fine after 6 hours (But remember this is lightly wound 60 second ad, not a NEW 2000ft tight wound print from the lab.
4. Best result, was ready to use after 20mins.
5. The metal plate I had it on melted the lower perfs. Plus I forgot about it.
6. Still in frezzer. (Was a crap ad anyway. There are about 20 more to screw with)
BEFORE you say anything, any of you, I need a hobby OUTSIDE work ok. Erm, gezz, I DO.
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Drying a wet roll of film in an oven like that is a good way to make oversized hockey pucks. ![[Wink]](wink.gif)
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