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Author Topic: Optimax II-S melted insulator plate! Tommie Evans Expert Film Handler Posts: 116 From: Birmingham, West Midlands, UK Registered: Sep 2004 posted 10-08-2004 01:54 AM                     Hi, I'm relatively new to the Strong Optimax II-S lamphouse. Came in this morning to find the insulator plate (positive binding post) has atomised. Any suggestions on how this may have happened or how to prevent. All the connections were tight. Specs: 4200W bulb running at 145amps 380/440v suffecient cooling. The bulb still works from the switch underneath the lamphousing but the CNA200 automation 'lamphouse on/auto' switch is dead?  |  IP: Logged Leo Enticknap Film God Posts: 7474 From: Loma Linda, CA Registered: Jul 2000 posted 10-08-2004 02:59 AM                        Interesting... Darren came across a similar problem with a Cinemeccanica lamphouse at a student film society place he was servicing. The symptom was that the lamp either wouldn't strike at all or went out within a few minutes. The problem turned out to be a ceramic insulator plate against a bulkhead through which the anode lead passed. It wasn't totally gone, but had eroded to the point of allowing the lead to short against the bulkhead. I presume the cause was either heat damage or the insulator plate being a duff one to start with.  |  IP: Logged Stephen Furley Film God Posts: 3059 From: Coulsdon, Croydon, England Registered: May 2002 posted 10-08-2004 04:57 AM                     quote: Tommie Evans 4200W bulb running at 145amps 380/440v I don't think that's what you mean, is it? That would be 55.1/63.8 kW! 380/440 is the mains Voltage (phase to phase), not the lamp Voltage. At least I hope it is, otherwise I think you might well vaporise a few things!  |  IP: Logged John Pytlak Film God Posts: 9987 From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922 Registered: Jan 2000 posted 10-08-2004 05:58 AM                        Since the you say the connections were tight, and the wires themselves do not appear to be charred, I suspect that over time, the high voltage ignition had leaked across the insulating block (perhaps due to moisture or dirt), eventually burning it to the point that it began to conduct enough low voltage current to cause the severe damage you now see. Any insulator for high voltage needs to be kept clean and moisture free, or there could be gradual breakdown, especially for insulators made of plastics. A ceramic insulator might have been a much better choice in this design.  |  IP: Logged Steve Kraus Film God Posts: 4094 From: Chicago, IL, USA Registered: May 2000 posted 10-08-2004 03:39 PM                    Is there a way to run a line directly from ignitor to bulb without the need for an intermediate terminal?  |  IP: Logged Richard Fowler Film God Posts: 2392 From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA Registered: Jun 2001 posted 10-08-2004 03:50 PM                     This is common in older Optimax units: the U.V. from the bulb attacks the insulator and it will weaken. Heat also effects the insulator....nothing lasts forever unless they desire to spend a few more $$$ in components. The route around the 45 degree mirror requires the mid way connection point.  |  IP: Logged Tommie Evans Expert Film Handler Posts: 116 From: Birmingham, West Midlands, UK Registered: Sep 2004 posted 10-09-2004 05:55 AM                     quote: I don't think that's what you mean, is it? That would be 55.1/63.8 kW! 380/440 is the mains Voltage (phase to phase), not the lamp Voltage. At least I hope it is, otherwise I think you might well vaporise a few things! Sorry, that was the mains voltage - thanks for the advice the new part is on order  |  IP: Logged

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