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Author Topic: The right Neumade splicer model Christian Appelt Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 505 From: Frankfurt, Germany Registered: Dec 2001 posted 11-19-2004 05:56 PM                     I have to buy a new 16mm splicer to replace a CIR model that was damaged today. Now I recall that most of you preferred the Neumade splicers, but I am not sure from this website Neumade splicers which splicer model is correct for splicing standard 1-perf 16mm with optical sound (mag diagonal splice is not needed). I'd appreciate your help.  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 11-19-2004 09:04 PM                     Some will tell you to get the 16SS...but don't listen to them...the best 16mm tape splicer is the 16SW. Steve  |  IP: Logged Steve Kraus Film God Posts: 4094 From: Chicago, IL, USA Registered: May 2000 posted 11-19-2004 11:03 PM                    What is the difference?  |  IP: Logged Carl Martin Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1424 From: Oakland, CA, USA Registered: Feb 2002 posted 11-20-2004 06:04 AM                        obviously they got rid of one of the redundant s's and replaced it with a w.  |  IP: Logged Jon Miller Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 973 From: San Diego, CA, USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 11-20-2004 08:53 AM                     No, the SW model has nothing to do with redundant letters Instead of making a plain single-sided splice (hence the 16SS designation), it makes a so-called "wrap" splice. The splicer creates a perforated tape flap extending about 13mm beyond the edge of the sprocket side of the film. Just carefully fold that flap over onto the other side of the film et voila, completed splice. No need to awkwardly unreel extra film to splice both sides. The 16SW, showing the punch die and splice method... On the left, the tape cut by the splicer (outlined in red). On the right, the back side of the film after completing the splice (again outlined in red) by folding the flap over. I think the reason for the short flap is so the splice is less likely to interfere with a magnetic soundtrack. Once you master the trick of folding over the tape flap, splicing will go a lot quicker than with a single-sided splicer. [ 11-20-2004, 10:08 AM: Message edited by: Jon Miller ]  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 11-21-2004 02:39 AM                     You are correct, the SW is designed to have the tape stop before covering the magnetic track, if one is present. Steve  |  IP: Logged Frank Angel Film God Posts: 5305 From: Brooklyn NY USA Registered: Dec 1999 posted 11-21-2004 08:59 AM                        So you wind up with the corner of the joint being covered by on one side. It's the corner of the splice that is most vulnerable to separation. Then there is the wrap. Seems that at is a potential weakness of this method in that, no matter how tight you are able to make that overlap, it is still an additional thickness OUTSIDE the width of the film. That wider area at the splice has got to impact the stability of the image on the screen. I mean, the additional thickness of the tape at the splice causes movement; the additional tape on the edge of the film (and on only one side at that) is certainly more of the same -- movement of that frame in the gate. I've been using the 16SS for years and that little bit of an inconvenience of spinning the splicer around (rather than turning the film strip itself) is no big deal. 16mm is not being used in a mulitplex situation like 35mm where speed is a major factor in every procedure; you are not making up prints by the dozen so that extra 2 seconds it takes to spin the splicer is no big deal, at least for me.  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 11-21-2004 09:30 AM                     This is actually a rather strong splice (16SW) and damn near impossible to pull apart with good tape. Frank, once you try the 16SW...you'll never go back baby Steve  |  IP: Logged Steve Kraus Film God Posts: 4094 From: Chicago, IL, USA Registered: May 2000 posted 11-21-2004 09:47 AM                    Ew...I hate wrap-around anything (splices, cues, splice marking tape for f---ing lazy operators) but especially on 16mm.  |  IP: Logged Paul Mayer Oh get out of it Melvin, before it pulls you under! Posts: 3836 From: Albuquerque, NM Registered: Feb 2000 posted 11-21-2004 01:20 PM                        I'm glad I have both an SS and a Rivas then. The sideways image jump on every SW-made splice would annoy me, at least until I could trim off the one-sided wrap. But by the time I do that I can make a complete splice on the SS.  |  IP: Logged Jon Miller Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 973 From: San Diego, CA, USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 11-21-2004 03:08 PM                     Point taken on the sideways jump, Frank, Steve K., and Paul. But since I use this splicer mainly to assemble shorts programs for film festivals, the splices would be in the black film between titles and thus would have no visible impact on the screen. Besides which, I try my best to keep the fold as small as possible.  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 11-21-2004 03:22 PM                     Have you all ever seen a 16mm tape splice? 16SS or otherwise...they are nasty...the focus point is very shallow...the image is going to hop on an intermittent machine and the focus is going to go out on any machine (typical 16mm lenses are in in the 35mm -50mm focal length. Never noticed the sideways jump on my Kinotons...perhaps since they spring load both sides of the lateral guide and I'm almost positive that the folded over side gets the sprung side on current FP38s and hence no sideways shift. If you really want the best splice, go ultrasonic or cement (film stock determining). 16SW...it is the way to fly in 16mm. Steve  |  IP: Logged Scott Norwood Film God Posts: 8146 From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas) Registered: Jun 99 posted 11-21-2004 07:55 PM                        I just used a 16SW for the first time ever last week. It took a few tries to get a good splice, but after that I like it much better than the CIR that I have owned for years. I didn't notice any side-to-side image shift on either my home Elmo 16CLs (portables with claw movements) or an Eiki EX-6120 (theatre machine with intermittent movement). Two thumbs up for Neumade splicers (16, 35, and 70mm)  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 11-21-2004 09:59 PM                     CIR used to make a 16mm wrap around splicer...called the 16FR. I think it was designated for lab and station use. It was discontinued a few years ago...or so I was told when I tried to order one. Steve  |  IP: Logged Christian Appelt Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 505 From: Frankfurt, Germany Registered: Dec 2001 posted 11-22-2004 04:40 PM                     Thanks for all that advice! I'll recommend buying a model SS because we get many archival prints for which a non-wraparound splice seems safer IMHO. (16mm mag prints are rare these days, and while the mag tracks often sound extremely good, on most older prints color has totally faded.)  |  IP: Logged

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