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Author
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Topic: Failsafes
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Dave Callaghan
Film Handler
Posts: 60
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Jan 2003
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posted 02-10-2005 03:29 AM
From my experience, there are 2 kinds of wraps, gradual and instantaneous / catastrophic.
A slow feed / payout platter allows the film to gradually build up around the centrepiece because the payout is running slower than the takeup / rewind. This can happen on a Strong non-digital controlled platter. The payout speed can be corrected by adjusting the motor's position, and I believe this adjustment is explained in the manual.
I have found that the Strong wrap detector works perfectly when it comes to this sort of wrap.
A catastrophic wrap is not so certain.
Static or masking tape left accidentally causes the film to tug suddenly, bringing the feed to a halt instantaneously.
Think about it for a second, and it's anyone's guess what the state of the film will be. No matter how "trippy" the wrap detector might be, once the film is no longer feeding freely, can ANY wrap detector stop the projector fast enough to prevent film damage once it has stopped moving through the projector? A projector is a mechanical device which inherently possesses inertia. Since it can't stop on a dime, film damage seems like an inevitable consequence of a catastrophic / sudden wrap.
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Bill Langfield
Master Film Handler
![](http://www.film-tech.com/ubbmembers/818.jpg)
Posts: 280
From: Prospect, NSW, Australia
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 02-10-2005 11:06 AM
Ian, contact Associated Sound Newcastle.
(I'll chase up their phone number if you like - Don't have it here at home right now))
They retro-fitted all our older Speco's at the Hayden Cremorne Orpheum, with the yo-yo elevators. But I've a feeling the mod is not really easy self install, perhaps Barry can point you to someone in your state or give some advice.
As for the claims of false trip/shut downs, I've found that only happens if a print (particularly older ones - being an art house, we tend to get some prints THAT HAVE DONE THE ROUNDS!) only happens if the print was not inspected properly at make up.
IE, not cleaning old tape splices (also where you peel the old tape of a each reel head/tail, because you need to save every frame you can, after seeing the the last 20 'projectionist's' just keep cutting another frame further in) with shell-lite or FG and removing gunk from old cue foils etc.
It's almost a good a thing. A show shuts down, then you straight away go OK WHO MADE THAT UP - Lazy shit did a crap job! (Though in your case with the clinging etc, that wont work)
Possibly just get Film-guard (for the clinging and shreading - though Kodak blames the Vic projectors for EVERYTHING), we finally got our test set-up at GUO just the other week. Thank god all the bosses are happy with the results - As I was the one who talked them into trying it.
Bill.
PS What John said is correct. However some projectors stop quicker than others. Centuries run 'forever', Vic-5's stop much quicker.
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