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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Christie bulb spacer question (Page 1)

 
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Author Topic: Christie bulb spacer question
Frank Dubrois
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 896
From: Cleveland, OH
Registered: Mar 2005


 - posted 05-10-2005 04:36 PM      Profile for Frank Dubrois     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
We were contemplating getting these in order to rotate our bulbs (yep, it hasnt been done to this point) because we have the screw in type bulbs. I'm sure spacers or washers could be gotten at a local hardware store, but I cant find any specs on the "official" Christie spacers. Anyone know size? curcumfrance diameter etc. Also, would there be a problem with heat? I dont want them to melt or burn. Thanks!!

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 05-10-2005 04:37 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The lamps normaly come with the washer on the lamp which is removed to rotate the lamp I am assuming that the lamp in question is the 1000 or 1600HSC

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 05-10-2005 05:00 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Frank,

Then best thing is NOT to rotate your lamps, just keep them and the reflector spotless. if you leave em alone and they will more than likely last longer. We have customers that typically get 12,000 hours from 2kw Christie lamps, note that they do have good lamp exhaust!. Not that running them to 12k hours is a good thing to do but none of these lamps ever get rotated and none have ever exploded either.

Rotating lamps was necessary before the advent of the getter that is now inside of all xenon lamps manufactured since about 8 or 9 years ago. This getter attracts the vaporized tungsten so it does not deposit on the inside wall of the lamp and darken it. The quarter life(or half life) rotation was to allow the vaporized tungsten to deposit evenly on the inside wall so even illumination and heat dissipation through the quartz could be achieved. Thsi eliminated uneven stress on the envelope and reduced the number of lamp explosions.

With very large lamps 4kw plus you might push a few extra hours out of em by rotating them. Some feel that this helps to keep the very heavy electrodes centered in the lamp so they don't end up sagging.

All in all with todays lamps many techs including myself do not reccomend rotating lamps. The amount of life that can be gotten out of them without rotation and the inclusion of the getter speaks for itself.

You definately need to get to a booth training seminar... As useful as F-T is this is not a training place. Those of us assisting with answers are sticking our necks out a bit in the liability department when we provide anssistence. You should also limit your liability at work until you become adaquately trained. Should someone be injured, or a film become damaged because of something you repaired you could be held liable... althougtn at your place it sounds as though they would just replace the dead person anyway [Big Grin] .

Perhaps the Kodak booth seminar would be the best one for you to attend since it is the most complete one going. You should also do the Dolby seminar around the same time. John P., can you provide Frank with some info on this.....

Mark @ CLACO

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Bevan Wright
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 176
From: Fountain Valley, CA, USA
Registered: Sep 2003


 - posted 05-10-2005 07:52 PM      Profile for Bevan Wright   Author's Homepage   Email Bevan Wright   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Definitely agree with Mark, don't rotate them. Chances of creating problems (flicker, heat, focus, etc) is far greater than any benefit you will ever get.

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John Walsh
Film God

Posts: 2490
From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Registered: Oct 1999


 - posted 05-10-2005 08:12 PM      Profile for John Walsh   Email John Walsh   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Not that I'm an expert in xenon bulbs, but I agree with not rotating them. You can see there's very little blacking at the top of bulbs today, so why bother?

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 05-10-2005 08:34 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Not that it matters at this point in the thread, but chalk up another one in the "don't rotate" department. Overkill rooftop exhaust and Christie brand lamps is the real magic in getting phenomenal performance in a bulb anyway.

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Frank Dubrois
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 896
From: Cleveland, OH
Registered: Mar 2005


 - posted 05-10-2005 11:23 PM      Profile for Frank Dubrois     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The packing materials on the bulb packaging itself says "for maximum performance, rotate bulb at half-life"

I dunno...just following instructions. Our bulbs typically start to dim (noticably) or flicker around 2000 hour mark. I didnt expect a miracle, but a little bit longer life would be nice if possible.

Oh well..Thanks

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 05-11-2005 12:34 AM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
What lamps, lamphouses, and rectifiers, or consoles do you have there? Probably not enough from the blower either... The problem out here is that stupid HVAC techs don't take our 5000 foot elevation into account when specing them. It takes alot larger blower at this altitude to equal one at your altitude. I also find many of them running backwards.

As for rotating..... Of course thay want you to go in and mess with the bulb... thats how they sell more new bulbs!

Following "Lifes Instructions", not the manufacturers instructions, generally pays off in the booth........

Mark

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 05-11-2005 12:38 AM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I remember when I used to work at EDW's and playing with 4K plus bulbs in our Christie Reference consoles that there used to be a spacer washer included in the box mentioning for the 180 degree rotation at half life - but never did any rotation due to the comments that Mark has mentioned (but had a parts bin full of these washers which came in handy for other uses).

Later on, the washers were omitted in shipping bulbs with the recommendation for not doing any rotation.

I've noticed that Osram and some other still recommend rotation at half life-guess an old habit is hard to break.
-Monte

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 05-11-2005 08:18 AM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
my experience has been that rotating them improves the overall life span of the lamp as long as one does increase the current immediately after rotation I haven't had issues with flicker or the likes
Also blackening is far more even

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 05-11-2005 08:42 AM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Gordon McLeod
Also blackening is far more even

I don't think any of us here see any lamp blackening at all any more on any manufacturers lamps.... literally none after 12k hours down here on Christies. What lamps are you using that blacken?

Mark

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Brad Allen
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 688
From: Evansville, IN, USA
Registered: May 2000


 - posted 05-11-2005 02:49 PM      Profile for Brad Allen   Email Brad Allen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
My Osrams blacken, always have. But I don't rotate. I found it caused problems. I may have to try a Christie. I'm lucky to get 2200hrs out of 2000w Osrams.

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 05-11-2005 03:05 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Brad, what kind of lamphouse are you using? The lamphouse itself, the exhaust and of course lamp brand plays a huge role. People just don't understand that even though certain combinations of equipment and lamps cost a little more initially, the extra expenditure pays for itself within the first year or two and then becomes noticeably less expensive to operate for the remainder of the cinema's life.

You cannot beat the combination of a Christie SLC lamphouse, burning Christie bulbs and an overkill exhaust system. While any one of those three important items will improve a system's performance, I've yet to find any combination that beats the magic from using those three items together. (Sadly though I continually see Strong packages installed with all sorts of random bulbs and piss poor exhaust everywhere I look, which makes for a fairly lousy performance. [Roll Eyes] )

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Brad Allen
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 688
From: Evansville, IN, USA
Registered: May 2000


 - posted 05-11-2005 03:14 PM      Profile for Brad Allen   Email Brad Allen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Ancient Kneisley Kni-tron Xenex Mod L2000.
I've always suspected that the roof ventilation wasn't where it should be, but never could come up with anyone that could accurately check it.

Once upon a time, I would get easily 5-6000hrs out of bulbs, but no more.

Brad do you feel the same about the SLH lamphouse?

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 05-11-2005 05:22 PM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Brad Miller
(Sadly though I continually see Strong packages installed with all sorts of random bulbs and piss poor exhaust everywhere I look, which makes for a fairly lousy performance
..any information on how much CFM's is required on exhaust to get life out of any bulb and also maintain excellent presentations?

SLH consoles, isn't that the "Reference" consoles? If it is, that is one SWEET console.

thx-Monte

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