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This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2
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Author
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Topic: 16mm Eiki 2000A -- motor not working
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Marc Syp
Film Handler
Posts: 26
From: Columbus, OH, USA
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 05-08-2013 12:12 AM
So... imagine this... Way back when, I asked you guys for advice on what I might to to get the old girl working again. People supposed it was the motor start capacitor, so I went out and bought a replacement from Grainger, as suggested on this thread. But then I got distracted and never did the replacement.
Nearly 5 years later, I finally took out the old Eiki and attempted the job. Got the old capacitor off and hooked up the new one for a test, hoping for that glorious beast to fire right up -- alas, the new motor start capacitor made no difference whatsoever.
Still the same buzzing sound, with no turnover from the motor whatsoever. A fellow film projector buff (but not a tech) noticed that the relay was not firing, and that if you tug on the belt, the motor wants to keep going, but just can't after a few revolutions. The buzzing sound intensified after playing around with it a bit.
We looked for all of the fuses, couldn't find any bad ones. The changeover mechanics don't seem to be interfering with the motor either.
Any ideas on what to check next?
I'm wanting to get this pair up and running the way they did before I put them in storage... also, failing that -- I'm in Seattle... if you know of anyone I could take it to for a diagnosis, I would be grateful.
Thanks,
Marc
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Leo Enticknap
Film God
Posts: 7474
From: Loma Linda, CA
Registered: Jul 2000
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posted 05-09-2013 03:00 AM
From the symptom you describe, I can only think of four possible causes.
1 - Bad motor capacitor (ruled out, as you've replaced it)
2 - Motor is not receiving the correct power supply
3 - Motor brushes are worn
4 - Seized bearing
If a fuse were blown, you wouldn't be hearing the buzzing sound.
The power supply (transformer) unit in most Eikis is located on top of the amplifier module, towards the front, near the back (non operating side) cover. On most models, it takes a mains power supply (120 volts AC) in and will have five outputs:
Motor - passes straight through (i.e. the motor uses the AC mains voltage, too)
Amplifier module - 40 volts DC.
Lamp in dim/economy mode - 22 volts DC
Lamp in full blast mode - 24 volts DC
Exciter and threading lamps - 8 volts DC
There are slight variations for different models (for example, if yours is a xenon-lit machine, the rectifier for the power supply will be totally separate). I don't recognise your model number and there isn't a service manual for it in the F-T warehouse, and so to a certain extent this is guesswork.
If you can find a service manual anywhere online, though, my first step would be to check all the power supply outputs with a multimeter to verify that this unit is working properly. If the power supply unit is failing, I'm guessing that it could be creating some resistance or something that's stopping the motor from getting the power it needs.
Note: you will need to do this test with live, mains power going through the machine and the back cover open. Unless you're confident in managing the safety aspects of that, I'd suggest enlisting the help of a qualified electrician.
Motor brushes don't look like toothbrushes or pastry brushes: they're solid pieces of carbon fibre that the motor shaft passes in contact with ('brushes' against) as it rotates. An electrical current passes through them, and so as they erode over time, the contact becomes weaker and the motor eventually starts to fail. Here is a video of someone replacing the brushes on a power shower motor - the principle will be the same on your Eiki.
The problem is that Eikis were designed to be of a modular construction, for easy servicing in the field. So if you're the a/v tech in a high school in the middle of nowhere (which is where these machines were designed to be sold to) and your motor goes bad, you simply removed the motor module (three screws and a molex connector), packaged it up, sent it to Eiki and received a replacement a few days later. Repair down to component level happened at base. However, in this case, if the brushes turn out to be the culrprit, you're going to have to disassemble the motor module to get them out, because Eiki stopped offering spares and support for their 16mm projectors almost two decades ago.
I've just looked in the service manual for the N series portables (which is what my two Eikis are), and they don't even give you a part number for the motor brushes. If that is the problem, you're looking at trying to find a new motor module from somewhere, unless you can get the brushes out and establish that they are of a size and spec that is still being made for motors used in other applications. It would certainly be worth taking the worn ones to an electrical parts supplier, or looking online, if you do get them out. I've never had this problem with any Eiki that I've owned or fixed for other people, and so honestly can't say if new brushes that would work are readily available.
As for bearing(s), I doubt it: my suspicion is that the shaft would not be rotating at all if it had seized.
Edit/afterthought: if you remove the belt linking the motor to the camtank module, does the motor run freely? If it does, is the camtank very stiff to turn over using the inching knob? If so, the culprit is a corroded spring in the camtank module. I encountered this in one machine that had been in storage for years - it had rusted almost solid, causing tremendous resistance against the motor. I tried something like 50 different types of spring in an attempt to find a replacement that worked, but couldn't. In the end I gave up and Ebayed the thing as for spares or repair.
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