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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Filmguard vs Vinegar

   
Author Topic: Filmguard vs Vinegar
Martin McCaffery
Film God

Posts: 2481
From: Montgomery, AL
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 05-20-2005 09:04 AM      Profile for Martin McCaffery   Author's Homepage   Email Martin McCaffery   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I recently came into possession of a 35mm feature that has been sitting in cans in a hot office for about 34 years. The smell of vinegar is lovely, but as it is a B&W film, no color fading to worry about. The one reel I looked at is in very good shape, the print was not played much, so I expect the rest of the feature to be ok.

I'm airing it out now and want to run the whole thing through the film cleaner. Just wondering if Filmguard will have any negative or positive effects on the film, especially if it is going to spend another 30 years in storage.

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Mitchell Dvoskin
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1869
From: West Milford, NJ, USA
Registered: Jan 2001


 - posted 05-20-2005 09:16 AM      Profile for Mitchell Dvoskin   Email Mitchell Dvoskin   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
If the print is slightly warped, coating it with Film-Guard and tightly winding it will relax the warp somewhat. I have never found any negative's from using Film-Guard on old prints. If the film is very warped or shrunken, nothing will help it.

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Don Furr
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 509
From: Sun City, Ca USA
Registered: Nov 2002


 - posted 05-20-2005 09:45 AM      Profile for Don Furr   Email Don Furr   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi Martin....
I've got no idea how much experience you've had with VS film but for what it's worth.....sometime you'll come across an old B&W print that has a strong musty smell, not exactly the same as VS but nevertheless a strong smell. Maybe that's what you are smelling and not vinegar!! [Razz]

Don

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Martin McCaffery
Film God

Posts: 2481
From: Montgomery, AL
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 05-20-2005 05:08 PM      Profile for Martin McCaffery   Author's Homepage   Email Martin McCaffery   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Oh, this is classic vinegar. The people in the room with me when I opened the cans started coughing and wheezing and eyes started watering. They didn't believe me when I warned them to stand back [Wink]

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 05-20-2005 05:28 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
If it's that bad, NOTHING will save it. FilmGuard may make it pliable enough so that it can run acceptably, but your projection booth will probably reek for some time afterward.

Remember, despite what some people claim about various products (their own or others), NOTHING actually "cures" VS. Once it starts, all you can do is try to slow it down as much as possible. FilmGuard does work pretty good in that regard. I have some prints with a noticeable vinegar smell and here 10 years later after cleaning/lubricating them with FG they don't reek at all and project fine...but the VS is still there. It's just hiding. [Wink]

Store your prints in cardboard boxes or "open air". Never store in cans, as the films need to be able to breathe. Climate and humidity control is mandatory as well. Don't store them in your garage.

If the print is curled, reverse-wind it. For example, if the base side is protruding, wind it base side against the hub of the reel. Tight winding is good, but I have also found that very loose winding can also help flatten out curled prints. Other than lubricating the print, storing it reverse-wound seems to be the best thing for flattening it out.

If the print is warped, odds are it was stored emulsion in. I have yet to find a print that was stored emulsion out that suffered from warping.

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Leo Enticknap
Film God

Posts: 7474
From: Loma Linda, CA
Registered: Jul 2000


 - posted 05-20-2005 06:07 PM      Profile for Leo Enticknap   Author's Homepage   Email Leo Enticknap   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Brad Miller
Store your prints in cardboard boxes or "open air". Never store in cans, as the films need to be able to breathe.
...unless you're going down the molecular sieve route. If you are storing both autocatalytic and pre-autocatalytic acetate elements in the same space, then sealed containers with sieves might be the way to go. The danger with storing them all in vented containers is that the offgases from the elements which have already gone seriously vinegary could accelerate the decomposition process in those which would otherwise decompose more slowly if they were atmospherically segregated. Acid detection studs which fit into the side of cans (for easy viewing when the cans are stacked on a vault shelf) are sold by Dancan. They're very useful for monitoring a collection of elements in various different states of decomposition where you haven't got lots of different segregated vault spaces to play with.

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Henry Titchen
Film Handler

Posts: 31
From: Singleton, NSW, Australia
Registered: May 2005


 - posted 05-20-2005 06:57 PM      Profile for Henry Titchen   Email Henry Titchen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The previous posts all sound like good advice.

From my limited knowledge cold storage/humidity control is the way to prolong the film life.

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 05-23-2005 03:01 PM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Two options:

1. Cool, dry and vented (but buildup of acid vapors can affect other films in the same storage area).

2. Cool, dry, and sealed with Molecular Sieves (but Molecular Sieves need to be replaced when they become loaded with moisture or acid vapors -- i.e., a weight gain of about 20 percent over the "fresh" weight).

See SMPTE Recommended Practice RP 131-2002 "Storage of Motion Picture Films":

http://www.smpte.org/smpte_store/standards/

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Leo Enticknap
Film God

Posts: 7474
From: Loma Linda, CA
Registered: Jul 2000


 - posted 05-24-2005 01:59 AM      Profile for Leo Enticknap   Author's Homepage   Email Leo Enticknap   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
And if cool, dry and vented, ideally in a vault with an air handling system that scrubs acidic vapours out of the air before it's recirculated (though installing and running such a system isn't cheap - around £12-13k a year in power and servicing alone for ours, which conditions three vault compartments with a total capacity of around 40,000 elements).

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 05-24-2005 05:40 AM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
In most cases, carbon adsorption (e.g., activated charcoal) filtration is used to "scrub" acid vapors from the circulating air.

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Leo Enticknap
Film God

Posts: 7474
From: Loma Linda, CA
Registered: Jul 2000


 - posted 05-24-2005 06:25 AM      Profile for Leo Enticknap   Author's Homepage   Email Leo Enticknap   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
That's what our (Munters) AHUs use. The replacement charcoal cartridges cost about a grand each and need to be changed out annually.

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