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Author
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Topic: Intermittent Xenon Auto strike problem
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Monte L Fullmer
Film God
Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004
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posted 11-20-2005 07:04 PM
Does the autostrike board have a relay on it? Usually, the relay starts to go causing the irratic ignition problem when the contacts inside the relay get pretty well burnt. Also, if the relay get itself loose in its socket, this could happen as well-something to check as well.
Seen that many time with the older Strong lamphouses and consoles.
If you have another Xenex lamphouse of the same, swap out the relay from one to another and see if this clears this up.
Side note-what kind of rectifier do you have - a Kneisley per any chance? Grab a VOM, set the unit on DC voltage, connect leads across the plus and minus outputs of the rectifier, have someone turn on the rectifier, turn off autostrike, and see what the DC startup voltage is. Should be over 100vdc to properly ignite the bulb.
-Monte
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Brad Allen
Jedi Master Film Handler
Posts: 688
From: Evansville, IN, USA
Registered: May 2000
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posted 11-21-2005 01:21 AM
Thanks all, as I said, the auto strikes were all installed new this year. The relays are the new electronic relays.
The bushing in the mirror hole I replaced with the teflon type many years ago. Mark your right, that is quit a show with the door open.
Louis, you told me many moons ago not to trust the amp meters in those. The 70 amps is based on a good clamp on meter. The meters on the lamphouse's died long ago. Louis are you saying that the shunt could be bad and cause the hard starting or are you refering to the amperage?
It's been years since the caps have been replaced, so that will be my first thing to try.
Yes, it's a Keisley rectifier, I will check the voltage, but I know from past experience, non of my 3 rectifiers have over about 75 volts no load. That's 2 kneisleys, and one Irem.
Thanks all.
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Brad Allen
Jedi Master Film Handler
Posts: 688
From: Evansville, IN, USA
Registered: May 2000
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posted 12-08-2005 09:43 PM
Ok, the saga continues. I have replaced both caps, found a hole in one of the old caps caused from arcing from the cap case to the rectifier case. Thought for sure that had been causing the problem. No dice. Here's what I have done to date: 1-checked all connections.
2-replaced both caps in rectifier
3-tested auto igniter by unhooking the leads that comes from the auto igniter relay from the lamp house. Connect ohm meter on these leads, turn on lamp house, relay engages and makes contact each and every time without fail, 20-30 times in a row. Auto igniter was installed new in July this year.
4-Measure 96VDC no load coming from the rectifier. I can watch the volt meter and see the caps bleed off after turning off the lamp house, and hear the relay release when the voltage drops below 74vdc. Takes about 2 minutes for this to occur.
5-removed the nuts holding the telsa coil/ignitor assembly to the case of the lamphouse. There is now layers of cardboard insulating this assembly from the case on two sides, back and bottom. None of this has made any difference in starting at all.
The new style longer teflon bushing is installed in the mirror.
When trying to light the bulb here is what transpires. It makes no difference if you apply power manually by the toggle switch on the back of the lamp house or by the manual switch on the automation or by the automation it self.
1-trying to ignite the bulb, sometimes it will work like a charm. Instantly ignite.
2-then the very next time (in this instance, 2 minutes later while I was testing) the lamp house will sit there and do absolutely nothing. I can hear the auto igniter relay engage, but the lamp never attempts to light. I can press the manual ignite button on the back of the lamp house when this occurs, lamp will fire right up.
3-Other times, when trying to ignite the bulb, the lamp will attempt to auto ignite once or twice, and then will stop trying to ignite. You can press manual igniter button. Lamp will fire right up.
4-Other times, when trying to ignite the bulb. The lamp will attempt to light 2-3-4 times, and then will light.
The bulb is an Osram 2000 watt that has 1800 hrs on it. The first 1300 hours was put on the bulb prior to doing the Grainger blower upgrade. I have never had a bulb act like the above description, but could it be the bulb that is causing the auto igniter to have problems. But yet the manual ignite button lights the bulb fine?
For those just joining us, this is in a Kneisley Xenex 1 lamphouse with a Kneisley rectifier. Thanks for any suggestions. Stumped in Indiana
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