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Author
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Topic: Need help with Kinoton ST-500E
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Michael Schaffer
"Where is the Boardwalk Hotel?"
Posts: 4143
From: Boston, MA
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 05-09-2006 06:01 PM
Well, it looks like the X/Y switch is a very strong suspect here. Maybe it is shorted. You should check it with a multimeter for continuity and open. If you can't figure out which lines should be open and which shirt in either the X or Y position, simply compare with the switch on the known working projector.
That switch doesn't do anything but route the RUN (when the projector runs) and FILMRISS (film break) lines from the board ST-80-21/01 to which projector Y connects to inputs for these two lines on the board ST-80-01/04 to which projector X connects. These inputs may or may not be marked (you never know with Kinoton) 1234 where 2 EXPAND RUN and 3 EXPAND RISS would be the input to that "X" board, and 1 EXPAND RUN and 4 EXPAND BREAK would be the outputs from that "X" board. So what the switch does is either route the two outputs from the "Y" board to the inputs of the "X" board, or when in the X position, simply route the "X" board outputs back to its own inputs.
When you have checked the switch and verified it's either OK or gone, you could also jumper outputs to inputs on the "X" board, then the platter should run normally with the middle platter assigned to the upper set of decks. If not, there may be something fishy with that board or the motor control board for the middle platter. I think at that step, only swapping the boards with known working ones will help you isolate the culprit.
The interesting thing here is that with the switch in the X position, there should be no connection to the "Y" board of the RUN and Riss lines. So even if there is something wrong with the motor control for the middle platter, it shouldn't control the lower set of platter when in the X position. It is quite possible that the system took a hit and you may find several faulty components. The strange behavior you describe with the switch cennected and siconnected certainly suggests that checking the swith and its connections to the two boards shouldn't be a waste of time.
But it looks like you should at least be able to play with both projectors when you disconnect the XY switch until you find the problem.
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