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Author Topic: Silly bulb mount - those crazy Kneisley Xenex's! Tim Reed Better Projection Pays Posts: 5246 From: Northampton, PA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 11-25-2006 10:58 AM                       What's with that anode connection? A slip collar, gripping the bulb right over the cooling holes?! What's going to keep that seal from overheating? I just replaced an LTI 3K HTP bulb in a Xenex with another bulb of the exact same model number. The new bulb has the little "positive" symbol cutouts/holes in the metal neck of the bulb, while the old bulb had long, open slots in more of a cast-metal anode. I'm really concerned for the new bulb not being cooled properly, since that Kneisley collar is covering two of the three "positive" airholes. Also, I don't care to crank down that connection clamp on the thinner part of the bulb metal... right above the glass seal! Why don't they just have an anode nipple cable like every other lamphouse? It's been at least 20 years since I had anything to do with Kneisley lamphouses, but I could swear I remember them having a cable connector for the anodes? Yes, no, maybe? Or, is this particular lamphouse missing a cable? No manuals on the Xenex I equipment. EDIT: I think I've answered my own question. I did a web search and found this: The picture clearly shows an anode cable on the end of the bulb going to the rectifier cable, which is attached to the anode support arm. I KNEW the lamphouse I was working on was missing parts! Its only + electrical connection to the bulb is through that anode support collar! Does anyone have a part number for this cable, please? Alternately, I guess I'll try to use a bulb cable (the ones that ship attached to other models of bulbs). I'm not content to let that slip-collar carry current for the bulb, at that connection point. [ 11-25-2006, 12:30 PM: Message edited by: Tim Reed ]  |  IP: Logged Gordon McLeod Film God Posts: 9532 From: Toronto Ontario Canada Registered: Jun 99 posted 11-25-2006 12:25 PM                     The Xenex 1 will take almost any style of lamp existant and there is a large anount of adapter cables available They always had a split tube to slide over the anode end for mounting and it hasn't been a cooling issue in the past with Osram or PE lamps  |  IP: Logged Tim Reed Better Projection Pays Posts: 5246 From: Northampton, PA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 11-25-2006 12:28 PM                       Thanks, Gordon.  |  IP: Logged Gordon McLeod Film God Posts: 9532 From: Toronto Ontario Canada Registered: Jun 99 posted 11-25-2006 04:17 PM                     I would not use the anode suport to provide lamp current I can't seem to find a list of kneisley cables and adapters  |  IP: Logged Richard Fowler Film God Posts: 2392 From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA Registered: Jun 2001 posted 11-25-2006 05:16 PM                     If the LTI specs is like Osram then it is L-1176 for Anode / L-1314 for Cathode for 3KW  |  IP: Logged Tim Reed Better Projection Pays Posts: 5246 From: Northampton, PA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 11-26-2006 01:55 AM                       Thanks, Richard!  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 11-26-2006 05:03 AM                     I put in a Christie CXL-30R in a XENEX and ran the attached anode cable direct to the support arm were the positive cable is attached to and bolted the two cables together on that support arm - forget about that anode cap that is on the end of the bulb. Bulb's been running for two years (in a drive-in) without any problems..  |  IP: Logged Louis Bornwasser Film God Posts: 4441 From: prospect ky usa Registered: Mar 2005 posted 11-26-2006 09:44 AM                        Tim: follow Monte's advice in any metal reflector lamphouse, especially Xenex II's. The small lead supplied by Kneisley is not up to the task of carrying current while exposed to the heat from the light. Louis  |  IP: Logged Tim Reed Better Projection Pays Posts: 5246 From: Northampton, PA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 11-26-2006 04:49 PM                       Thanks, Louis and Monte. It's a Xenex I with a glass reflector. I'll locate a bulb cable somewhere and just use that.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 11-26-2006 06:37 PM                     ...and to add since Louis mentioned a metal reflector version of this lamphouse in doing this retrofit, the XENEX that I did this retrofit does have a glass reflector. Is there a special reasoning or precaution that I need to know where maybe this retrofit could cause problems down the road using a glass reflector? Why I did do this retrofit is that the anode cap and cable assembly welded itself onto the old bulb since those excessively small allen setscrews in the cap have corroded beyond use within the cap. Plus, the cable itself was well into a serious state of crystalization and getting into the brittle stage. Thx-Monte  |  IP: Logged Louis Bornwasser Film God Posts: 4441 From: prospect ky usa Registered: Mar 2005 posted 11-26-2006 06:40 PM                        No, just needed more with the metal reflector; more light and more heating. Louis  |  IP: Logged Richard May Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1057 From: Floral Park, NY USA Registered: Aug 2004 posted 11-27-2006 09:39 AM                     I find it strange that with all the xenex lamphouses I work with, which is probably 30 or so, none of them have that cable on the end. They all use that front support to carry the current. None of them have had a bulb issue in the past.  |  IP: Logged Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 11-27-2006 10:16 AM                     Monte, did you say a 3K at a drive in? That picture must be awful dark.  |  IP: Logged John Pytlak Film God Posts: 9987 From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922 Registered: Jan 2000 posted 11-27-2006 10:40 AM                        quote: Monte, did you say a 3K at a drive in? That picture must be awful dark. [thumbsdown] Maybe suitable for a smaller screen? But I agree that 3K is going to have a hard time lighting a big drive-in screen, since most screens would have a gain much lower than 1.  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 11-27-2006 11:35 AM                     quote: John Pytlak Maybe suitable for a smaller screen? But I agree that 3K is going to have a hard time lighting a big drive-in screen, since most screens would have a gain much lower than 1. John, I had several D.I.'s that I serviced that only had single phase power. So till the advent of the Strong(or weak)switcher 3kw was the maximum size rectifier one could power. Of course two in parallel would also easily light a larger lamp but that typically was not done for what ever reason. One of the Single phase D.I.'s I serviced in Bass Lake, IN. got a pair of high speed movements installed so ended up with better than 4kw worth of light on screen. Mark  |  IP: Logged

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