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Author Topic: Problem switching between flat and scope Carey Barber Expert Film Handler Posts: 143 From: Newport News, VA, USA Registered: Jan 2003 posted 01-05-2007 03:27 PM                     I was hoping someone out there might have some tips about this... Projector is a Christie P35GPS Automation is Strong CNA-200 I have a few houses where MOST OF THE TIME the flat/scope switch on the automation does nothing. There are also buttons on the actual projector (rather than the automation) and these will not work either. Both the aperture plate and the lens turret should switch but they do not. However, there are random times where BOTH controls work just fine. Then, the next set, it stops working again. Also, they sometimes move when you press the START button. And, scope movies will sometimes go back to flat at then end of the show, just as the program tells it. Again, it is very random. The motors for the lens turret and aperture seem to work fine whenever the switches are working. I have replaced the switch on the automation and that does not help. Like I said, it does not seem to be the automation anyway because the switch on the projector does not work either. I have also looked for any obviously bad or loose connections but do not see any. But, I do not know my way around the wiring very well. Does anyone have any tips? Any suggestions for where to look for a loose connection? There is a terminal board inside the lamphouse and also a PC board inside the projector. Thanks ahead of time...  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 01-05-2007 08:17 PM                     is your STRONG automation setup for each program right - like Program 1 being flat and Program 2 being scope? Have you tried to make sure that both programs are alike, or gone through the edit mode to ensure correct programming? Wonder if your cue setup isn't being done correctly ..as if you are using the STRONG's FP350 or are you using some other sensor's manufacturer like the default SPECO drop failsafe with the three sensors behind the rear guide roller ... ..some things to chek on.., - Monte  |  IP: Logged Carey Barber Expert Film Handler Posts: 143 From: Newport News, VA, USA Registered: Jan 2003 posted 01-06-2007 08:13 PM                     Monte -- The programs are set up correctly. We have separate programs for flat and scope and the placement of our cues is correct. The failsafe/cue reader says Model FP-350. I do not think that our problem has to do with our programming. All of our automations are programmed exactly the same but only a few out of the 24 houses does not work. Also, our problem occurs when a program is not even running. The switches do not work before we even press START.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 01-06-2007 11:13 PM                     ..just another passing thought here since you've covered your bases pretty good here with the descripts that you mentioned of your settings ... Oh..but, here's a simple thing to chek - what is your console make that holds the CNA-200? .. the connections from the CNA-200 to the large TB board could have some connection issues....like there are some pretty good sized plugs that plug in on that TB board which is connected to the momboard of the CNA-200, for I've had operation issues with these plug that love to come out of the sockets. Also, on the same breath, on the plugs themselves, which are MOLEX plugs, the pins inside the plugs DO like to work out of the plug and needs to be reseated and by reseating the pin, one would hear the 'clik' of the pin seating into it's representive hole. I had two CNA-100's do this and found loosely seated pins in the plugs themselves. If you don't have such a TB board, then I would check every wire coming down from the CNA-200 to the respective mounting board and see if connections are tight. ...just more ideas...for what it's worth. good luck - Monte  |  IP: Logged Tristan Lane Master Film Handler Posts: 444 From: Nampa, Idaho Registered: Feb 2002 posted 01-06-2007 11:46 PM                     Since the button controls on the projector aren't working, it would rule out the automation wiring/programming as the cause. The projector has a turret control module mounted in the non-op side compartment of the projector. Normally when all turret/aperture function fails, it indicates that the control module has a problem. There are THREE trimpots on the module. Two for flat/scope timing, and one for voltage regulator adjustment. In my experience, an adjustment of the voltage regulator will restore operation of the turret. The target voltage is 24 volts. This particular trimpot is located near the voltage regulator heat-sink close to the center of the board. The orientation of the pot is different than the timing pots, in that the adjuster points toward the front of the projector. A volt meter isn't needed, but reccomended to achieve proper voltage. A small 1/8 turn adjustment will provide significant increase in voltage. I've never needed to make more than a 1/4 turn adjustment. You will also need to adjust the timing of the stops for flat and scope after adjusting the voltage. (refer to the manual - CCW adjustment increases the length of time the motors turn)  |  IP: Logged Frank Dubrois Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 896 From: Cleveland, OH Registered: Mar 2005 posted 01-07-2007 01:26 AM                    Ever consider a short in the motor? We have M35's that occasionally work. Could be a bad board also...  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 01-07-2007 04:36 PM                     Yep, I bet that's it then - the turret control module in the gear side of the unit. (Plumb forgot about that since now being a away from working with Christies and now stuck with STRONGs) .. and getting all more concerned about the automation side of the problem instead of the projector itself. When I did work with the P-35 units, I have to replace a good half-dozen of these modules in the short years working with these Chrisites. Thx, Tristian for that reminded info (good to hear from you again) - Monte  |  IP: Logged Tristan Lane Master Film Handler Posts: 444 From: Nampa, Idaho Registered: Feb 2002 posted 01-08-2007 04:31 PM                     I've never had to replace an entire turret control board. Usually adjusting the voltage, or replacing a bad relay is all that is needed to fix those things. Carey, Were you able to get the turret working again?  |  IP: Logged Carey Barber Expert Film Handler Posts: 143 From: Newport News, VA, USA Registered: Jan 2003 posted 01-09-2007 01:20 PM                     Yes, I was able to get the turret and aperture plate moving again. (I have not had a chance to post a reply in the last couple days) Thanks!!! The trick was turning that trimpot just a little bit. All of my houses with that problem are now fixed. I knew about the trimpots for adjusting how far they move for flat and scope but I did not know about the one for adjusting the actual voltage. Thank you all for your tips. They were greatly appreciated.  |  IP: Logged

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