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Author
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Topic: Strong Ballantyne Projector and 6k Reels
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Tony L. Hernandez
Expert Film Handler
Posts: 158
From: Windsor, CO, USA
Registered: Dec 2005
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posted 02-09-2007 10:57 PM
Hi everybody! I'm sorry I have not been around posting lately. Life got pretty hectic right about after my last post a couple months ago.
Anyhow, I just took a gig as a fill in projectionist at a local theater (an old, huge, single screen opera house)and will be starting by building up this weeks print on Sunday and running a private showing of it so the management can see that I am competent to run for a public showing.
I have ran 2k changeover and platters but never so much as touched a 6k changeover setup. You see, most of the booths I have worked in have been pre-1945 with only updated sound and xenon lamps; platters in one as well, unfortunately. So I was wondering if some of you folks would be kind enough to share some helpful tips about building up 6k reels. Also, they have Strong projectors in the booth that the other projectionist tells me are from the late 60s/early 70s. I cannot remember the exact model but I think they were Pro-35s or something...I seem to remember a crown-like emblem on the side if that helps any. Sorry to sound so stupid, but like I say, I am used to older machines, especially Simplex E-7 and Motiograph AAA. Also, I want and need someone to explain how, or, even better yet, provide a threading diagram for me. I would like to not go in there looking like a fool. Everything else seems like it will be a piece of cake. I am so happy to have this opertunity.
Thank you all for reading this!
Tony H.
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Scott Norwood
Film God
Posts: 8146
From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas)
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 02-10-2007 03:46 PM
There are a number of different types of reels that are generally called "6000' reels." Some have fixed hubs, some have "floating" hubs (which spin independently of the flanges), some have larger hubs, some have smaller hubs, and some have slightly different diameters. The important thing for you is to make sure that you use "floating-hub" reels for takeup. Use of fixed-hub reels for takeup usually results in either film breakage (with acetate-base prints) or perf damage (ESTAR-base prints) unless the takeup tension is set perfectly. Even so, takeup tension is much more critical when running the larger reels (vs. 2000').
Ideally, you want to use floating-hub reels with the largest possible hubs (usually 7" or 8") for everything, but most theatres seem to have a mix of different types of reels that have accumulated over the years.
Also, take note of the diameter of the hub on the feed reels, as that will determine when you should start to prepare for the changeover. Again, larger hubs make things easier. Make sure that your takeup reels will hold at least as much film as your feed reels! I don't like to fill any reel closer than about 1/2" to its edge, although in some cases you can get away with over-filling the reel (not recommended).
Before the final show of a particular print, I like to remove the final reel of the print from whatever big reel it is on and run it on its own. This makes it possible to have the entire print broken down and ready to ship out shortly after the feature ends (since you can do everything but rewind the final 2000' reel while the show is running).
My favorite reels for this type of booth are 26" diameter Goldbergs with 7" floating hubs. These will usually hold four shipping reels' worth of film (or three plus lots of trailers) and are very gentle on film when compared with the (more common) 24" reels with 5" hubs.
Edit: be sure to add extra blank tail leader to each big reel! The lab leaders on most prints are barely long enough to make one revolution around a big reel and you will get dirt and film damage at the tail of each reel if you don't add extra leader. Extra leader at the head of each reel is less critical, but is also a good idea.
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