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Topic: Diode testing, can I test without removing??
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Frank Dubrois
Jedi Master Film Handler
Posts: 896
From: Cleveland, OH
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 04-29-2007 02:23 PM
I have asked that question about 100 times to various techs, and I seem to get both yes and no answers. I am looking for someone who has tested diodes (Christie SLC 3000/4000) without removing them. We don't have a spare rack to swap out, so when a diode goes out, we are left to removing/replacing each diode until we find the bad one. This is time consuming simply because of the enduring pain I go through on my knees, on tile floor, scratching up my hands and arms digging into the lamphouse taking out each individual diode. It excited me to hear that you can actually test a diode without taking it out. IS THAT TRUE? If so, HOW do I test it? Even if I could narrow down the bad diode to one of two, it would save a huge amount of time. Anyone who has/does test diodes without removing them PLEASE let me know how it's done before we lose another diode. Now, before I'm told this by everyone, I KNOW all the diodes should be replaced when one goes, but I am looking for a quick way to test and replace the one bad diode to get the show up and going as quickly as possible. Thanks for any help!
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John Walsh
Film God
Posts: 2490
From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Registered: Oct 1999
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posted 04-30-2007 08:28 AM
Practically speaking, you have to isolate at least one of the diode's leads.
Impractically, there are only two things I can think of. Thirty years ago, I repaired PC boards and we had a piece of test equipment from General Instrument called a Tracker. It had two sharp-point probes which would be placed "across" the lead of a device, usually a DIP-style IC. You would hold one probe at the top of the lead where it enters the IC, and the other at the bottom. The IC lead is now just a shunt and the Tracker would read the current. It was a very finicky piece of test equipment, but after a while you could tell if the IC was sinking too much current - without having to unsolder the IC. This kind of test equipment would not really work with a xenon DC power supply because it was only meant for steady-state DC (not pulsating DC) and couldn't handle the high current. BUT a very sensitive meter might be able to show a difference between a good and bad diode while the supply was running.
The other idea is to use an oscilloscope to see each diode conducting. The trick though is to find out which of the 'humps' shown goes with what diode.
Nether of these ideas are good, and would probably be more trouble than it's worth to set up. But maybe someone could add a practical spin to them.
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